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Help ID Johnson 90 VRO (many pics)

That number on the welch plug should be your serial number. Decode the number. The number to the far right is the model run or suffix. The next two letters to the left are the part of the code that determine the year. Johnson Evinrude uses a simple code if the outboard is a 1980 to the present model. It is INTRODUCES. I=1, N=2,T=3,R=4,O=5,D=6,U=7,C=8,E=9,S=0.For example, a 1999 mode would show xxxxxEEx. The EE is 99 or 1999. This is only for a 1980 model year or after 1980.
 
The previous owner, a friend, suggested 1988. Then 1992. I'm guessing the number on the welch plug is no further help? Thank you!
 
Is 88-95 close enough to move ahead with repairs? And consult a service manual? Or does an 8 year range pose a problem? Ha. Might have no choice. thanks. rick
 
There is not much difference from one year to the next.-----What repairs are you contemplating.------What is your motor doing / not doing.----What trouble shooting has been done.----My suggestion is always the same on outboard motors.----Start with a compression test.----Minor difference in crankshaft / driveshaft length / fitment around the 91 / 92 year.
 
I do not believe the 98 model used the big red plug on the wiring harness.-----Yes these motors all look essentially the same from 1974 to 1998.----In fact they use the same size pistons over that entire span !
 
Ok. Here is the scenario. We bought it from a reliable friend. He says it has been rebuilt. there is "125" in paint on each cylinder. And, it ran awesome. The 17' center console flew. We went on vacation 2 weeks ago, and rented a place with a pier. First day: it ran glorious. Next morning, at 5:30am, it wouldn't start. Kept cranking, but no fire. Ugh. Went to the only marine dealer in town. Pulled the red plug. Still no spark. Replaced the power pack. Still no spark. Put it on a trailer and brought it back. Brought it to a boat mechanic. He thinks it is the stator or timer base. But, he threw out $1150 as a cost to chase it down/replace ignition parts, and suggested we should not go that route but consider a repower. He tested the coils and said they were good. The power pack is new. So now it is back in our court. From when it ran, it is a healthy motor, it seems. But right now, it sits. I purchased the nut to pull the flywheel. But I'm sort of guessing now. We are pretty mechanical. Just new to these engines. Any help would be awesome. I guess i need a step by step diagnostic strategy. Maybe? Bless you. Rick
 
My advise is always the same on these.----Load test the battery.----Check the battery cables and connections.----Take the starter apart for inspection and an ohm test.------All easy to do and NO MONEY SPENT.----If motor does not crank fast it simply will not fire up.----And most replies to that are.------" My motor cranks just fine "
 
ok. sounds wise. I took the battery in. It failed. I bought a new one. Took emery cloth to clean both sides of all connectors at the battery. They are good. It didn't start. Then I got run off by a lightning storm. I'll test the starter next. And look around for any bad looking wires. The solenoid is new (but I guess nothing is ruled out at this point in the game). Thank you. Rick
 
good luck on this ****ed up site. i get nowhere but answer bull**** questions. this site sucks ass. i more to do than type inbull**** that im a human. **** this place. i was looking for info. on a 88 johnson vro. **** it. took me 2 hours to be member. im gone from this bull****.
 
I need a little instruction on how to take the starter apart and do an ohm test. I'm sure i can take it off. Then what? I spent about 2 hours tonight dinking with it. The solenoid is new, so all connections there are, I think, solid. Ditto the battery. I found the 20amp fuse. It was good. I checked the power pack wiring, which seems right. Pass along any wisdom on the starter and next steps. Thank you. Rick
 
?---Just 2 screws and the starter comes apart.-----Use a digital ohmeter to take a reading from the commutator to the shaft.----Should read infinity.---Use a paint scraper or piece of sheet metal with a slot 7/16" wide to get brushes into position for re-assembly.----I install new brushes at $6.00 a set.
 
many thanks to racerone and others. Sorry for the late response on this, but I wanted to give a positive ending to the sage. I did what was suggested. Everything I tested passed. I did not have a big enough socket to pull the fly wheel to check it and the stator. That, coupled with the fact that we are in the process of moving, meant I had to eventually ask a boat mechanic. He confirmed what I/we had done to this point was dead on. It was, in fact, the stator. You guys would have helped me figure that out if I had had the time. We picked up a used one, the mechanic put it in, and it's back to running great. He, in fact, commented on the engine "Don't sell this thing. It is running great!" Well, after leaving us stranded for our whole vacation, I appreciate the compliment. Hopefully it runs for a bit. I love this site. So grateful for all of the input. Thank you. Time to run it for a bit while the weather is still good. Thanks again!
 
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