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2000 Johnson 115 low throttle idle issues

WinnipegMike

New member
Hi there,

Off the top, I want to say, that I appreciate a place to ask questions and I love the Dangar videos (quite educational).

Model number is J115PLSSB. I have the service manual, but it leaves a lot of questions since it covers a wide range of engines, not just my model specifically.

Here is some information that may help:

After replacing the fuel filter (small cartridge filter - not even shown in the manual - they only show the one that looks like an oil filter) and filter nut, the engine starts VERY quickly even cold. I tested the primer solenoid just to be sure and it "clicks" with the key choke quite well. Makes sense as my "starts" is not the issue.

After an engine start, the engine will idle smoothly for about 5 seconds and then just die. Logic tells me this is from a lack of fuel, but why and from what cause? If I do not get it in gear quickly and apply throttle, this cycle can repeat and increase the level of frustration! ;) Unfortunately, I cannot tell you what the idle speed currently is because I was just fighting to keep the engine going. This does not just happen when switching from N to F (some forums mentioned something about this). It does not idle in N. If I do not apply throttle quickly (in N or F), it just dies (has dead spot before "kicking in" - also alludes to a fuel getting to the right places problem).

As I give throttle (had to do this quickly) and all the way to WOT, there are no fuel issues or sputter issues that I can notice, although, I am not sure 100% sure that I am getting the full RPMs. (I think it maxes out at 5,500 but some forums said you can push this to 5,800. Not sure if this is true. What I do know, is that fuel consumption at WOT is crazy!)

Checked plugs. They are still in good shape and gapped to .030. I read somewhere that you can gap them to .040 to help with idle problems, but I don't want to mess with that until I get feedback here.

Reading the manual was almost "depressing" as I believe that it told me that for my model of engine I can do zero adjustments unless I have a Ignition Test Kit (434017 - now replaced with a 511-4017).

Surely, I must be misreading that. No ability to adjust idle speed or top RPM speed without a special tool that I won't know how to use? Tell me it is not so.

Looking around the motor, I found this interesting "part" sitting on top of the flywheel cover. I can't find what this part is or what this high/low adjustment does anywhere (manual or parts diagrams).

IMG_7248.jpg

Would air leaks be less prevalent at high throttle or can a smooth acceleration and WOT rule out air leaks?

Where should I start looking to solve this problem?

Your help is much appreciated.

Mike
 
I believe that motor has a feature called ----" quick start "-----is it working ?-----Pushing the key in momentarily after first start and if motor falters may help keep it running.----That is an ignition timing adjustment.
 
Hi Racerone. Thanks for your reply. The pushing in the key opens the primer solenoid so that is working. The solenoid also has a manual switch on it that I can force into the open position. Since I am not on the lake and can't really test, I would suggest that yes, pushing in the key, adds fuel and keeps the engine running.

My question is still, why is not not getting enough fuel? If that all points back to a ignition timing adjustment... crap... that is above my skillset. Never mind the cost of an ignition test kit.
 
Its a trick question,if it wont idle you would never know if it was working unless you had a timing light hooked up and somone trying to start it.
Throw your service manual away and buy a factory manual
What are your compression numbers?
How old is your gas?
How clean is your gas?
 
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New/fresh and clean gas this year (full tank of 87 octane).

All the other questions are above my skill set and tool kit.

Where do I buy a factory manual? (I have searched lots and only found the manuals like I have. Can't find the factory. Even the Johnson Evinrude website links to after-market service manuals. Great...)

What I am starting to hear is that this is unlikely a problem that I will be able to fix myself.

Like most people, I was trying to save some money doing some work myself. But I am getting the sense that this might be a "take it to the shop" problem.

Do you think that there might be any benefit to using some "spray-in" carb cleaner to eliminate any possible prior years' gumming?
 
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