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Thrid Starter This year, help!

J

justinweigt

New member
On the water yesterday and all was fine, My second starter this year would clunk when I was trying to start. This will be my third new starter. What am I doing wrong? My flywheel looks okay. Its a Merc 4.3L. The only thing I have noticed is I don't have a 90A fuse on the power wire like some other pictures show. I don't have any shims, but why does the starter not engage, I need a place to start trouble shooting.

Thank you
 
Are you using the bolts supplied with the new starter or the original ones. I think generally the newer aftermarket starters use different bolts that are shorterthan the stock bolts
 
If your original stater used SAE (1/2 inch) bolts, and your replacement ones are for a METRIC application, that's your problem. The metric starters use 10 mm, body centering bolts that are of a larger diameter (which allows the starter to shift out of position).

I cured that problem on mine by tightly wrapping the 3/8 SAE bolts with aluminum tape.

Jeff
 
Bt Doctur said:
a hydrolock makes the starter go 'crunch"
Click to expand...

I second this!!

If it happens again you should be prepared to remove spark plugs and check for water in cylinders.

If this is the case, you may want to review how to slow down and stop and shut off engine.

Your boat design may be susceptible to this condition and may require running engine for a bit before shutting off when coming to a quick stop.

Does your engine run over before shutting of (dieseling is commonly used to describe this condition)
 
kghost said:
I second this!!

If it happens again you should be prepared to remove spark plugs and check for water in cylinders.

If this is the case, you may want to review how to slow down and stop and shut off engine.

Your boat design may be susceptible to this condition and may require running engine for a bit before shutting off when coming to a quick stop.

Does your engine run over before shutting of (dieseling is commonly used to describe this condition)
Click to expand...


Now that you say that I did turn it off and the engine kept going for a second, Would that cause hydrolock? How do I get it to be unlocked?
 
1. If the engine runs on after switching key of, it is possible the engine can run backwards a few revolutions.

If this happens it will suck water into the cylinders from the exhaust manifolds.

2. If 1 is true, get over run issue corrected.

3. If you pull the spark plugs (all of them)
The starter will turn engine over. Just stay away from the sides of emgine, water will shoot out under pressure 10-30 ft.
 
kghost said:
1. If the engine runs on after switching key of, it is possible the engine can run backwards a few revolutions.

If this happens it will suck water into the cylinders from the exhaust manifolds.

2. If 1 is true, get over run issue corrected.

3. If you pull the spark plugs (all of them)
The starter will turn engine over. Just stay away from the sides of emgine, water will shoot out under pressure 10-30 ft.
Click to expand...


I will remove all the plugs after work and see if it turns over and spits water out. What else should I do to make sure the engine doesn't get wrecked, obviously change the oil as many times as needed.

Thank you
 
If you do see water coming out, change the oil at least three times, running the engine up to temp between each. Then do a final fill with new oil and filter.
When you come off plane, the big pile of water that you were pushing behind you when you were planing wants to come and fill the hole the boat made. This wave is sometimes big enough to poop the stern, and causes a pressure wave inside the exhaust manifolds that is much more forceful than the (now off power) engine exhaust can push against. Result: water ingress in the cylinder bores. This can happen to thru hub exhaust and open straight pipe exhaust.
You should reduce your speed gradually and allow the stern wave to flatten out, not jerk the throttles back.
 
A bad/old distributor pick up will mimic all the issues of hydro lock. So if you do not find water in the cylinders, change the pick up coil in the distributor.
 
Docksidemarineservices said:
A bad/old distributor pick up will mimic all the issues of hydro lock. So if you do not find water in the cylinders, change the pick up coil in the distributor.
Click to expand...



Yep I had water in the cylinders, not a lot but the engine does turn, I have oil in the cylinders now and will change the oil tonight for the first time and fire it up to see if I broke anything else. How often do the Flappers in the exhaust go bad? Could that have cause Hydrolock and how and are they to change?

Thank you everyone you have been very helpful
 
Flappers wear out over time and the rubber portion can fall off. If engine over heats then the rubber portion will be "Burnt" off.

Only way to tell is look and replace if needed but understand, this may not solve your issue. Flappers assist in slowing down back wash but do not stop it.

If your engine does not shut off immediately when key is turned off then that issue needs to be solved.

Things to check-
What is engine operating temperature?
What is engine idle rpm (in gear and out of gear)

Depending on thermostat (140* or 160*) Your running temp should be ~160*-180*. So any temps higher than 180* is cause for concern. If this is an issue this needs to be addressed. Marine carbed engines run significantly cooler than Auto.

Engine idle speed (rpm) 650-750 rpm in gear. If you are over 800 and closer to 1000 at idle, re-adjust to spec and see if over run stops.
 
kghost said:
Flappers wear out over time and the rubber portion can fall off. If engine over heats then the rubber portion will be "Burnt" off.

Only way to tell is look and replace if needed but understand, this may not solve your issue. Flappers assist in slowing down back wash but do not stop it.

If your engine does not shut off immediately when key is turned off then that issue needs to be solved.

Things to check-
What is engine operating temperature?
What is engine idle rpm (in gear and out of gear)

Depending on thermostat (140* or 160*) Your running temp should be ~160*-180*. So any temps higher than 180* is cause for concern. If this is an issue this needs to be addressed. Marine carbed engines run significantly cooler than Auto.

Engine idle speed (rpm) 650-750 rpm in gear. If you are over 800 and closer to 1000 at idle, re-adjust to spec and see if over run stops.
Click to expand...


My boat is always about 155* I idle about 800 rpm. The weird thing that happened before this is the tack was increasing RPM's but the engine seemed to stay constant. When this happened I was not driving it was my father and I think he shut the boat off before we were in N.

You guys have been great, It started yesterday and Change the oil for the first time, I was nice and milky. I will change the oil again tonight and again tomorrow. No knocking from the engine, but what else should I look for to make sure I didn't damage anything else?

Thank you
 
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