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15 hp lower cylinder not firing despite spark tester says OK.

Smute

Member
My 15E76R had been upgraded to a CDI ignition two years ago. Ran much better with the upgrade. The problem first arose recently when at WOT the engine suddenly bogged down and I limped back to the dock.

When I found a wire disconnected to the coil half of the plug connecting to the power pack I thought “end of story.” So I replaced the coil with a used one I had on hand (having tried unsuccessfully to reconnect the loose wire to the plug). But that did not solve the issue much to my bewilderment.

Earlier this year it already had a carburetor rebuild, new fuel pump, new fuel line and new tank not related to any problem at the time but as an update.

With the current problem I replaced the fuel in the tank.

Also checked compression of 110psi on both cylinders, good water flow and thermostat operation per the pyrometer, synced the cam follower and cam, spark plugs show wet with fuel without fouling, changed the spark plugs, rechecked for loose wires.

So I am at a loss; but wondering if something has gone bad such as the stator?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 
Are you sure you can still call the CDI an "upgrade". What year components were installed, and were they new or used? To test Reed valve you can apply vacuum to carb port after you have removed air silencer. I have a fitting for this. Perhaps you can fabricate one yourself. Otherwise you will have to remove carb and inspect visually......perhaps even remove reed block.....need new gasket then.
 
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Right, great, simple diagnostics there. A switch box is Mercury name for a power pack....in other words, one in the same. An electronic ignition should arc at least 7/16" in open air. A good standard magneto should go 3/8" minimum. Both use a capacitor or condenser to store voltage for a moment in time.
 
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