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1992 VP 430B and DP-C pds bearing and u joint replacement

D

DCberg

New member
I’m new to this boat and Just noticed some vibration both in neutral revved up and underway. I don’t know the repair history, so I’m going to remove the outdrive and inspect / replace the pds bearings, seals, joints and bellows, etc...

Any advice would be helpful.

Do I have to pull the motor to get to the pds bearings?

If so, can I pull the u joints and replace the bellows without pulling the outdrive?

Are there any cheaper parts options? The u joint assembly is 6-800. Could I just replace the u joints in my existing yokes? Any help with bearing and u joint part numbers or sources would be appreciated.

thanks in advance
 
I just replaced my DP-C PDS bearing. It can be removed without pulling the engine. I had a lot of expert help from Ricardo on the AQ series. It would be helpful if you could post the model and serial numbers on the brass engine tag. I also replaced the u-joints and reused my yolks.

Tom
 
Last edited:
This thread is several weeks old by now........... but what the heck.

DCberg said:
I’m new to this boat and Just noticed some vibration both in neutral revved up and underway. I don’t know the repair history, so I’m going to remove the outdrive and inspect / replace the pds bearings, seals, joints and bellows, etc... Any advice would be helpful.
There is no need to remove the entire stern drive. In fact, if you do, it will be more difficult when going back together.
It is much easier to remove the transmission only for this work.


Do I have to pull the Engine to get to the pds bearings?
Not with a C or later drive.
You will have a single bearing PDS.

If so, can I pull the u joints and replace the bellows without pulling the outdrive?
As per the above, remove the transmission ONLY.
You will need to remove the main drive gear bearing box in order to replace the two bearing crosses.
Do not lose the shims.... they must go back in as they were.
See your OEM work shop manual for the "run-in" bearing rolling torque value.
Not Seloc.... Not Clymers.... OEM only.

Are there any cheaper parts options? The u joint assembly is 6-800. Could I just replace the u joints in my existing yokes?
Yes, if all is OK, you can replace the bearing crosses only.

Any help with bearing and u joint part numbers or sources would be appreciated.
The PDS bearing will be an industry standard 6206-2RS or equivalent.

The bearing crosses will be externally clipped.
Take your old ones in with you to good industrial drive line shop for a comparable substitute.

thanks in advance
Click to expand...

commuter64 said:
I just replaced my DP-C PDS bearing. It can be removed without pulling the engine.

I had a lot of expert help from Ricardo on the AQ series. It would be helpful if you could post the model and serial numbers on the brass engine tag.
I also replaced the u-joints and reused my yolks.

Tom
Click to expand...
Perhaps Tom can post the bearing cross part number that he used.


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Tom and Ricardo, sorry for the delay. I had to put things on hold for a while. I'm back at it now.

I'm trying to upload the serial number info for my engine and outdrive but it's not working.

My serial number for my outdrive is 3102129444 and my motor is 4100135372. My flywheel housing is red and has a grease zirc.

I'm wanting to replace my pds bearing(s), seals, snap rings, etc... Looking at a diagram, they also show a bushing on the motor side of the shaft. Is this a good thing to replace at this time as well?

I'm also wanting to replace the U-joints and associated seals at the transmission as well as the o rings for the dipstick and drain for the outdrive.

Lastly, I'm thinking it would be a good idea to replace the bellows.

I'm finding that part numbers are all over the map for these items. Any help with parts store cross reference numbers and/or kits would be appreciated.

So, my questions are:

1) Do I have the 2 bearing set up and if so, do I need to pull the motor? If so, any suggestions or tricks you could pass on?

2) I'm reading that to replace the U joints, there is no need to remove the entire outdrive, rather just the upper gear box. I have the OEM FSM, but am a little fuzzy on the bearing run off procedure... Any help here would be appreciated as well.

Thank you for your assistance, it is a big help for me trying to get to know my boat better and save a few bucks in the process.
 
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DCberg said:
My serial number for my outdrive is 3102129444 and my motor is 4100135372. My flywheel housing is red and has a grease zirc.
If your flywheel cover is red and has the grease fitting, someone has likely replaced it.

I'm wanting to replace my pds bearing(s), seals, snap rings, etc... Looking at a diagram, they also show a bushing on the Engine side of the shaft. Is this a good thing to replace at this time as well?
If (key word "if"), you have a double bearing PDS, this will NOT apply!
However, if (key word "if") you do have a single bearing PDS w/ a pilot nose, that bushing does NOT undergo any rotational contact with the PDS pilot nose.
They both spin 1:1 at all times.
It is a pilot nose-to-crankshaft centering device ONLY.

Here is the OEM 430B flywheel cover and PDS.

Volvo Penta Exploded view / schematic Flywheel Cover, Primary Shaft and Clamp. Ring Kit, Drive SP-C, DP-C 430B, 431B, 432A, 434A - MarinePartsEurope.com

Note that this one is a single bearing PDS with a pilot nose, and w/o a flywheel cover grease fitting.
It also requires the pilot nose crankshaft installed centering bushing.
This PDS will come out AFT without engine removal.

Again, if your flywheel cover is red and has the grease fitting, someone may have replaced it.
If red, and if it has the grease fitting at 12:00 O'clock, will likely be a double bearing PDS and with no pilot nose or pilot nose crankshaft centering bushing.
If so, this means that the engine needs to be removed in order to access the FWD PDS bearing/seal.


I'm also wanting to replace the U-joints (bearing crosses) and associated seals at the transmission as well as the o rings for the dipstick and drain for the outdrive.
Good call!
The bearing cross p/n will be determined by the fashion in which the trunnion bearing caps are held in place..... i.e., internally or externally clipped.

Lastly, I'm thinking it would be a good idea to replace the bellows.
Universal Drive Shaft bellows???? Absolutely!
Exhaust bellows..... unlikely!

I'm finding that part numbers are all over the map for these items. Any help with parts store cross reference numbers and/or kits would be appreciated.
Pictures will help determine which components you have.

So, my questions are:

1) Do I have the 2 bearing set up and if so, do I need to pull the Engine? If so, any suggestions or tricks you could pass on?
See above!

2) I'm reading that to replace the U joints (bearing crosses) , there is no need to remove the entire outdrive, rather just the upper gear box. I have the OEM FSM, but am a little fuzzy on the bearing run off procedure... Any help here would be appreciated as well.
Again, pictures will be very helpful, and will allow me to tell you whether or not you have a Pre-A transmission or a A transmission.

.
Click to expand...

commuter64 said:
Defer to Ricardo....my set up was a C drive with a single, sealed bearing. Good luck!
Tom
Click to expand...

FYI and Notes:

.... GM V engine w/ single sealed bearing PDS flywheel cover will likely be absent the grease fitting at 12:00 O'clock.
.... GM V engine w/ double open bearing PDS flywheel cover will have the grease fitting at 12:00 O'clock.
.... most all Volvo Penta OHC 4 banger engine flywheel covers use an open single bearing PDS and will offer the grease fitting.
.... the C and later drives use the long vertical shaft spline coupler.
.... the C transmission's vertical shaft split ring keeper is no longer bronze.
.... always, always, always replace the eccentric piston seal when doing a transmission re-seal and/or bearing cross replacement.

If replacing double bearing PDS bearings/seals:
a....... glue and/or stake the FWD seal in place. We DO NOT want this seal to be pushed out of position by excessive grease gun pressure/volume.
b....... the AFT seal installs in the Non-Conventional direction. We want this seal to "breach" excessive grease gun pressure/volume.

Regardless of single or double bearing PDS, and regardless or "open" or "sealed" bearings, these are industry standard bearings and seals. There's no need to purchase OEM when you can buy the exact same parts from a major bearing supplier and save $$$$.




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