Nissan NFS3.5A 4 cycle no Spark whatsoever

I have a 2007 Nissan 3.5 4 cycle that is hardly broken in. I had trouble with it from the get go and got stranded numerous times when it conked out.
Nobody wanted to do Warranty service on it and I ended up paying for it. I have not used it for the last few years but brought it home and fired it up after cleaning the carb and checking everything.
It run fine at home in the bucket in neutral but still did not excellerate much beyond half throttle. I put it on the boat and drove it at low speed just
above idle and it was doing well for 40 minutes. When I tried to bring the speed up to about 60% throttle it died on me again and would not start. I had to paddle back to my dock. I tried to restart it 30 min later and it came up just a bit and died. After that it would not start.
I took it home and I cleaned out the carburetor again. It was spot clean. I cleaned the inline filter close to the fuel cock, I put a new sparkplug in and
tested the spark. There was no spark using the tester and also with the plug against ground. I ordered a Igniter coil to replace my coil 3AB06040-0 and received a 3AB060410 new 2weeks later. I put the new coil in and gapped it with 0.010"using a business card resulting in no spark. I checked the kill switch and it is working showing continuity when pressed in and none with the lanyard attached. I tried to wiggle and find any shortage or miscontact on the switch.
There was none. I disconnected the brown cable and no spark. I disconnected the kill switch and no spark. Given the fact that this motor and any component is as clean and new as the ones in any showroom I started measuring the Ohm resistance in the" old" coil and in the new coil.
Here they are: Old coil: Black wire to Plug wire 6.9 K Ohm. Ground to Plug wire 6.9K Ohm. Brown Cable to Plug wire ,nothing. Brown to ground nothing.
Brown cable to black cable nothing. Black to ground 0 Ohm. When i had the switch wires connected and pushed the switch I had continuity from brown
to black and to ground as it is supposed to be and none with the lanyard attached.
The new coil had the same results but the secondary measured 7.3 K Ohms and the black wire to ground was 1.2 Ohm for whatever reason.
I do not know what the correct Ohm measurements should be and I am waiting for the Repair Manual I ordered and is supposed to arrive Aug.4
Here goes the Summer again without a boat. Could anyone please give me a hand and tell me if the Ohm specs are good on these coils and if not I can at least send the new coil back and get another one. By the way, the magnets on the flywheel feel pretty strong too.
Please help

What method did you use to clean the carb?
That is the correct part number for the new style igniter, supercedes the old part number.
Depending on your ohm meter, the resistances sound OK, but you did not test the diode.
You must use an analog ohm meter; digital may give incorrect numbers.
These igniters are pretty solid, so I suspect the new and old ones are both OK.
I think you have two separate and distinct issues.
The first problem sounds like a classic varnished carb.
The second one is odd, for sure.
Since you indicate no spark, as long as the kill circuit is working, the only active part is the igniter, but you have changed that.

Hi Paul,
thanks for the reply. I have cleaned the carb part by part and understand your point and will follow your advice and soak clean ones I get the spark issue resolved.
I have measured the Igniter with digital Ohm meters and with my old analog meter. Here are the analog measurements:
--Black wire to Plug 7.4 K Ohm // 7K Ohm on old coil
--Brown to Plug 52 K Ohm/ 480 K Ohm pole reversed // 54 K Ohm/ 450K Ohm pole reversed on old coil
--Ground to plug 7.4 K Ohm // 7 K Ohm on old coil
--Black to brown 45K Ohm/480K Ohm pole reversed // 48K Ohm /400 K Ohm pole reversed on old coil
--Brown to ground 45K Ohm/ 480 K Ohm pole reversed // 48K Ohm/ 400K Ohm pole reversed on old coil
--Black to ground 0 Ohm // 0 Ohm on old coil

Paul ,how do I test the diode?

Hi Paul ,
I did some diode measurement in the mean time using 2 digital devices:
New Coil:
--Black to brown wire 0.673/ OL when reversing poles ,and 0.86/OL when reversing poles with second device
Old coil:
-- Black to brown wire 0.704/OL when reversing poles , and 0.86/OL when reversing poles with second device.
Please let me know if that is good
har

Sounds good. You should have spark.

Hi Paul,
I was waiting for weeks for my Nissan service manual to arrive ,since I still have no spark and
wanted to make sure I measure correct.I also used a new spark checker with a 5mm setting
and got no spark whatsoever.
I used a analog tester and measured the following:
Secondary coil between plug cap and black (B) 7.4 k ohm
Igniter diode polarity on primary circuit:
Red lead to Black ,black lead to Brown shows no conduction.
Red lead to Brown, black lead to Black shows 70 ohm.
The manual talks about a range from 5 to 9 K ohm.
Does this mean 5 K ohm to 9 K ohm since I only measured
70 ohm on both igniters (old and new style)
I told you that the flywheel magnets are strong and that I gapped
the igniter 0.010 " to the flywheel.
Right now I am at a complete loss as to what to do.
Please try to help me on this one.
Harald




I used my analog meter and measured:

Plug cap to ground (black) should be 5.5-9.5K. Your numbers at 7.4K sound OK.
Primary diode is a conduct/open condition, and I would say infinity/70 ohms sounds OK.
Only thing I can think of is a short from brown to ground, such as a bad kill switch, but you already checked that.
Wouldn't hurt to recheck that, and of course try a new spark plug as well. Some do go short internally, even new.

Hi Paul ,
Thanks for the reply. I have both coils (old and new) laying in front of me
on the table. I have 2 new sparkplugs.They measure 4.9K ohm
The old one measured 4.28 K ohm.
I re checked the kill switch again: between black and
brown cable with lanyard attached: no conduit.
With pulled lanyard, or with button pushed in: 0 ohm.

When measuring the coils with my old analog meter
(it does not have a diode measuring feature), I used
the regular Ohm measuring function: It measures
70 ohms with red on brown coil wire and black lead
on black wire. Nothing the other way.
This is the same on both coils.
By using my digital meter diode function, I measured.
0.91 and 0.86 with red lead on black, and black lead on brown
and nothing when reversed on both coils.
Could it be that both coils, the old one and the new (new style)
Igniter are bad?

Hmm. Possible, but it seems both ignitors read properly.

What else could cause the no spark. Is there any other part
Involved in the magneto ignition system that could cause the
Problem. I assume the motor can be tested for spark without
being in the water as I have it on the stand in my garage.
I hate to have to send the igniter back and to order another one
since we are not sure that this is the problem.

The beauty of the 1-piece igniter is the simplicity; aside from the kill switch, it's all self-contained.

Hi Paul
With the help of a new spark tester, I finally saw a tiny spark
at 5 mm distance setting. I bought a new Tohatsu carb.and
it is running now. I tried to set the idle to the required 1250-
1350 rpm but could only get it down to approx.1500 +, or it
would dy on me. It is running fine in the water now and trolling
at 1350 but reaches 4700 at half throttle and no further increase
beyond that.This is the same as it was always before.
Could it be that the motor is not freed up yet.I made sure the
Oil is at the half glass mark.
What could be the reason for the limited power.
Harald

If you can't idle down, I would drill out the brass plug for the pilot screw and richen the carb about a turn.
If the throttle plate opens all the way to full, then you may have a propeller issue. Pull the prop and make sure the shear pin is OK. You may also need less pitch. I would prefer you get up to 5000, but 4700 isn't all that bad.