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9.9 eptul

S

spiritofstsimons

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Just bought a brand new pair, still in the box.

Beginner question: should these EFI models be run dry of fuel each day or does it make a difference?

Also, having a time finding a flush attachment. I'd like to permanently rig something that would be easy to use each day without worrying about dropping the dang bolt in the water each time. Any ideas or advice? Thanks! Charly
 
I am repowering 2014 9.8 epul with 9.9 EFI with tilt. Already have the existing wiring harness in place, but it is too short and the connectors are different on the new motor. Is it possible to use it with an extension? I cant find a part number for the proper connector plug that goes inside the new 9.9 cowling. Any advice? Thanks!
 
I am now trying to figure out how to keep the things from turning. There will be no steering cable attached. Is there a friction screw somewhere? I wound u tying the old 9.8's u with some ss wire to hold them in place!
 
[h=5]STEERING LOCK KIT - MFS9.9/15/20E[/h]
SteeringLock_3RS_lg.jpg

Description
Steering Lock Kit for the MFS9.9/15/20E models.Kit allows motor to be locked into a fixed position to allow boat to be steered using the boat's rudder. Perfect for sailboaters that want to use their rudder to steer instead of the motor. Kit includes installation instructions.Caution: Once installed, the motor is locked in place and cannot be used to steer the boat unless kit is removed.​
Fits MFS9.9E, MFS15E and MFS20E models only. Fits both tiller and remote models.
Part #: 3RS625000M
List Price (MSRP): $58.00

There is also (a different) one for the 9.8...

 
Thanks for the info! My cables finally came today with a service manual. The manual is a 2008 :-(. meanwhile, trying to get the shifter and throttle cables inside to hook them up. The retainer with the little gate, that holds the cables in place at the notch, doesnt seem to be accessible. Do you have to take the whole cowling apart to get inside there and secure the cables?? if so, it ooks like the cowling gasket would have to come off. I am afraid of bending something out of whack and messing it up. That happened with the 9.8's and every now and then the cable would jump out of the retainer when trying to shift. Not good. :)
 
The 9.9E came out in 2017. Your manual may be for a carbed motor.
Completely different setup to put the cables into the lock gate on the E.
The cowl gasket will need to come off if you want to remove the skirt. Not needed to route the cables, but it may be easier. The gasket on these goes right on and off easily.
If they came out on the 9.8, they were never installed correctly to begin with.
 
OK Thanks, got it figured out how to take the gasket and skirt off enough to get to the lock gate. That is progress! I have tried to find a shop manual for the 9.9E online with no luck. Boats.net has a part number in their system, 003210660, but it says it is currently unavailable, and the operator couldn't put it on back order. Anyone out there have access to one?
 
As soon as I can get a few days off, I plan to make the switch from the 9.8 opals to the 9.9s. I have built custom transom boards to attach them to, that will slide up and down the "guillotine" ie, aluminum u channels, vertically. I really don't need the power tilt in the 9.9s but it is there. I suppose that the switch on the side of the engine is the only control necessary to make it work? IOW there is no need to also install the switch on the control handle? Another question: Since weight is crucial and power tilt is not important to me, what would happen if I simply removed the hydraulic cylinder? That seems to be where the most extra weight is. Would the engine still tilt up If I hit something while in gear? Any other weight saving ideas? Thanks
 
The RC box will come with the rocker switch already. That's wired in parallel with the cowl switch. Yes, you could pull the PT units, and maybe resell them. Then how will you set the correct trim? Maybe you could add the thrust rod that is used on the non-PTT models. If you are in F, the prop is pushing the motor down/forward, so they never do actually tilt unless in N.

Why not just run the 9.8s? Lighter all around, and very reliable. But you already know that.
 
OK I got the 9.9s mounted and running. During the changeover I messed up one of the control boxes when re connecting the new electric cable. Somehow I managed to break a piece of plastic off of the neutral switch. The motor would not start, so I took it off and you could see the guts of the switch inside. I put a toothpick inside there and wedged it closed. It started fine, but also now starts in gear. Anyway, I have been running it a few hours per break-in instructions. I know this is a safety feature, and intend to fix it when I can, but cant locate a neutral switch for my 2014 9.8 control box. Does anyone know where I might get one? Will running it as is mess up anything else? Thanks!
 
Thank you Paul! I have the 9.8's off the boat now and here at home. Do I need a control box to start them? will they start with just the pull cord? How would you shut them off? Is there a way to hotwire the starter?
 
They are magneto ignition, so you can pull start or jumper the starter solenoid. Stop by grounding the brown wire or just choke them out.
 
I like the water separators that Tohatsu sells. Available with a clear bowl that you can drain if water gets in there.

[h=5]WATER/FUEL SEPARATOR FILTER KIT W/ AQUAVUE BOWL[/h]
9999879321M_lg.jpg

DescriptionWater/fuel separator filter with Aquavue bowl installs between your fuel tank and engine and is designed to trap 98.8% of any water that may be present in the fuel.
Unlike traditional water/fuel separators, this separator features a transparent "Aquavue" bowl to quickly see how much water has been trapped. Also features a drain screw allowing the user to drain any accumulated water without having to remove the filter.
Approved and recommended for use with ethanol blended fuels. Kit includes one 10 micron filter and connectors. Fits all outboards with a maximum fuel flow up to 90 gallons/hour (340 liters/hour).
Part #: 9999879321M
List Price (MSRP): $81.97

 
How deep should the 9.9 xls run? My cat is medium weight for a 36 foot sailboat , and 23' beam so, a pretty good load. I am running them at the end of my bracket, and the water line is between the first plate above the prop, (the big one) and the second. You can still plainly see the top screw for the LU oil fill. just above the waterline. When the boat heaves and pitches in a chop, especially wind against the tide. I get that WOW WOW WOW cavitation noise. Maybe there is no solution, but it seems like they want to be a little deeper. How deep is acceptable? Obviously, I want to keep the cowling as far from the water as possible because of corrosion, but is there any other reason not to run too deep due to load factors or hydrodynamics? Thanks!
 
At aux sailboat speeds, you won't go too deep. If you ventilate when porpoising, I would go a couple of inches deeper. You can completely submerge the extension housing without a problem. I would prefer the LU oil fill plug be submerged in your application.
 
Just did the 10 hour oil changes. Coming in tonight I noticed the paint coming off the propeller on one of the engines. it is at the leading edges and around the hub. Paint seemed to rub off at the touch! Is this a cavitation issue? Doesnt seem right. The 9.8s had hundreds of hours on them with no such issue. Is it the the 9.8 props re anodized and the 9.9 props are painted? Sorry no photo Thanks
 
Dunno. Some props lose paint easier. The HT props by Solas seem to have really good paint. There are HT props available for the 9.9E as well.
 
It looks like solas makes a 9.25 dia. prop in a four blade from seven through eleven pitch, and a 10 in dia four blade in a five or a seven pitch. Which one would be best for a 36' sailing catamaran? I am working on getting a better bite by lowering the bracket a few inches also.
 
Hmm. With a single 9.8 on my 8500 pound HR28, I ran a 5 pitch. Running the 9.8 on a lighter Catalina 25, I did a 7 pitch. Of course catamarans are different. The Tohatsu-labelled prop is 7 pitch:
3Y0B645140PROPELLER (4 BLADE 9.25" DIA. X 7" P)$138.47

In the end, it will be trial and error as always. You want to get the tach as close to 6000 as possible at WOT, without going over. Anything under 5000 and you are likely lugging. Maybe ask your Solas guy.
 
Do EFI motors sound different from carbureted? These new 9.9's certainly sound different from my old 9,8's I may be overly paranoid here, and I have hearing issues as well, but these new motors have a kind of whine that is hard to describe, especially at certain lower rpm's. motors have about 25 hours on them, lube levels good. Using Yamaha lube oil, but correct weight etc. Is this something to worry about? thanks!
 
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