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Honda 225 intermittent alarm with overheat error code

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Genweb105

Member
Hi there, having trouble one day in after purchase of our Honda 225 on a 2004 Dorado Scout. We’ve had it serviced and the computer Found an overheat error code. We have since done a salt flush as well as replaced the thermostats. Took it for a ride and within 10 minutes the beeping started again. The beeping is long and the motor goes into idle but then restarts right away. We are not sure if we should move into replacing the oxygen sensor or if there’s something else that somebody on this board knows specifically related to this engine and with these symptoms. Please advise! This is not good for our marriage!
 
A failed oxygen sensor will not put the engine into limp mode, so it must be something else.
(I assume you mean limp mode when you say "idle")
Also, is this when the body is running in the water out is the engine on muffs? If it's the latter then muffs are unable to supply enough water to keep this engine cool and will always cause an overheat alarm.
I think you can use muffs to check basically functionality but for more than a minute or two out of the water the engine needs to be in a tank.

Stupid question, but the impeller has been replaced hasn't it? If not then this is obviously job number 1!

If it has then you need to pull the codes from the engine using the paper clip technique - a search on here will reveal many posts from chawk who will send you information on how to do this.
 
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Hi! Thanks for your response. This all went downin the water —- and yes on limp versus idle. We actually have two videos of theengine and also the lights and alarm when it happens. The previous owner (letme remind you we haven’t had a day with our alarms since we purchased last week- starting to get very frustrated that previous owner knew about this yetdenies it) replaced the impeller but perhaps did something wrong in theinstallation??


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metal-chicken said:
A failed oxygen sensor will not put the engine into limp mode, so it must be something else.
(I assume you mean limp mode when you say "idle")
Also, is this when the body is running in the water out is the engine on muffs? If it's the latter then muffs are unable to supply enough water to keep this engine cool and will always cause an overheat alarm.
I think you can use muffs to check basically functionality but for more than a minute or two out of the water the engine needs to be in a tank.

Stupid question, but the impeller has been replaced hasn't it? If not then this is obviously job number 1!

If it has then you need to pull the codes from the engine using the paper clip technique - a search on here will reveal many posts from chawk who will send you information on how to do this.
Click to expand...

hopefully you can view these videos and give me your thoughts!! :)
 
Wow.... that definitely doesn't look like an overheat situation!
The way the engine is jumping around makes me think that it's missing very badly and may have a timing issue. I wouldn't be running that at all!!
This is out of my comfort zone but I'd say you need to be looking at the spark plugs and checking the compression on each cylinder.
 
OK. That engine should definitely NOT be running like that. I would not run it again except for testing described below.

As metalchicken posted, a failed HO2 sensor simply prevents the engine from running most efficiently. The only things that will put the engine in LIMP mode is 1) overheating, which will shut down the engine after 20 seconds if not corrected, and 2) low oil pressure, which will not shut down the engine.

Let's go through this methodically. You have a continuous alarm but no fault lights are coming on.

So first off, make sure that the four lights on your key switch lights are working. When you turn on the key switch do all four lights flash briefly then go out except for the alternator light should stay on? Then when you start the engine, the alternator light goes off and the green oil pressure light comes on? Is that what is happening?

See attached for the alarm/key switch light combinations that should indicate the type of fault: View attachment BF 225 Alarms.pdf

Next, pull fault codes, as described here: View attachment Procedure for Getting Fault Codes.pdf

Then look up what the codes are telling you as described here: View attachment MIL Fault Codes Scanned.pdf

Write down the codes you are getting. Then clear the codes as described in the 2nd document. Remove the shunt and run the engine again until it alarms again, then pull the codes again and let us know what you get both times.
 
On your other thread you verified that you were getting a constant alarm.

Is it also correct that the engine only goes into that heavy vibrating shown on the video when the alarm comes on and other wise is runs smoothly?

When the engine is idling and there is no alarm, is the idle smooth?
 
Yes that is correct. Absolutely no shaking or anything abnormal until the beep starts. I will upload a video shortly of the boat driving at 35+ smooth —-
 
See attached for the alarm/key switch light combinations that should indicate the type of fault: BF 225 Alarms.pdf
Click to expand...
Interestingly that list may not be comprehensive.
A few weeks ago I replaced the high pressure screen/filter and accidentally trapped the O-ring when I reassembled the filter housing resulting in fuel leaking at a high rate from the filter housing when the engine was running. The alarm I got was a continuous tone and, I think, just the normal green oil pressure light - I can't remember if the PGM-FI light was on - but the point is that I definitely had a continuous tone for a fuel pressure issue. This isn't on the list of alarms!

Just thinking out loud here but I wonder if the engine shaking is actually being caused by a number of cylinders not firing due to a [low] fuel pressure issue - hence the continuous tone alarm??
 
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Interesting! That list was copied from the Helm Shop Manual, but I reordered it to put the types of alarms together. BUT, it wouldn't be the first time it had an omission.

Waiting to hear what codes he got from shunting the service connector.
 
There is no fuel pressure monitor on any Honda outboard, the only alarm you would get with a fuel leak is the O2 sensor because the engine would be running very rich with the induction of fuel vapour, the list is correct.
 
From the post description I doubt the temp light is working, the poor buyer has been duped, I am guessing this engine has a problem and either needs heads off for a water gallery clean out or new exhaust manifolds, or possibly both, hence the reason the engine was sold.
 
iang6766 said:
There is no fuel pressure monitor on any Honda outboard, the only alarm you would get with a fuel leak is the O2 sensor because the engine would be running very rich with the induction of fuel vapour, the list is correct.
Click to expand...

I'm sure you know your stuff - but I can guarantee that I did get a constant alarm when the fuel was leaking.
Definitely not an O2 sensor alarm (I certainly know what this is having had to replace 4 sensors over the years) and it kicked in as soon as the engine started whereas the O2 alarm doesn't as the ECU waits x seconds for the sensor to heat up before the alarm sounds.
 
I am not going to argue, just saying the fault list is correct, there is no sensor on the fuel system that monitors pressure, I was simply correcting you on the fact that you said it had been omitted from the DTC fault list
 
Turns out the temp light is no longer working - was when we had it inspected before purchase. The mechanic is replacing the impeller to start - thinks it might have sucked up a bag or something and burned out OR was put in incorrectly by the former owner. We will start here and see how things go.
 
We are replacing the following ...

water pump kit
lower seals
trim system

see attached pics ... likely the culprit of the sustained alarm and overheating?? I hope!!
 
Genweb105 said:
Turns out the temp light is no longer working - was when we had it inspected before purchase. The mechanic is replacing the impeller to start - thinks it might have sucked up a bag or something and burned out OR was put in incorrectly by the former owner. We will start here and see how things go.
Click to expand...
The rough idle after alarm is what Honda’s do to keep from heat damage to engine. Sounds like a Descaling of cooling system is needed if current work doesn’t solve issues.
 
Looking at you trim unit, I would definitely drop the extension case/ trunk and check the grommet where the water tube enters the oil pan casting, I am sure you'll find it needs replacing
 
We are back… We got our boat back today after being in the shop for the month. We replaced the following

Full water pump kit
Thermostats
Alternator And both batteries
Trim system (bc we needed to)

The boat was riding beautifully but then a new alarm came on (intermittent beeps) with the engine light on and then back to normal! Later on after pumping it up to a full 35 MPH the original alarm came and the engine shook (no engine light). But then back to normal. But why run so well in between??

Our mechanic is trying to locate a Honda diagnostic computer because full honesty he didn’t have one and he changed the obvious things to change.

It is pissing much faster FYI.

Anyone have any ideas… They mentioned the ECM as a possibility but now we will wait for the computer diagnostic.

Definitely disappointed.
 
This is getting ridiculous. Apparently, no one has pulled fault codes (which does not require Dr. H and is very simple to do as I posted earlier on this thread), so you have no idea what is going on with that engine. Your "mechanic" is just throwing parts at the engine hoping something will fix it. Pull the fault codes, then clear them. Run the engine again until you get an alarm, then pull fault codes again and post what you got the first time and the second time. Then, we might be able to help you out.
 
chawk_man

We are heading to the boat at the crack of dawn with coffee and a paper clip.

will report back !


chawk_man said:
This is getting ridiculous. Apparently, no one has pulled fault codes (which does not require Dr. H and is very simple to do as I posted earlier on this thread), so you have no idea what is going on with that engine. Your "mechanic" is just throwing parts at the engine hoping something will fix it. Pull the fault codes, then clear them. Run the engine again until you get an alarm, then pull fault codes again and post what you got the first time and the second time. Then, we might be able to help you out.
Click to expand...
 
The test produced one flashing light every five seconds… Which seems to be the oxygen sensor. We are trying to get that part to replace today. Any other thoughts in response to the test? Can an O2 sensor cause the long beep as well as the engine idling down to slow speed?
 
A failed HO2 sensor will give you an alarm for most of the 225's but not all. It will not put the engine in SLOW mode or cause the missing that I saw in the video. Fuel pressure out of spec will also through a code "1". So, before replacing the HO2 sensor check the fuel pressure. It should be between 41 and 49 PSI at idle with the vacuum tube removed and pinched closed at the fuel pressure regulator. I suspect that is where your problem is.

You check the fuel pressure at the fuel pressure relief bolt that sits on top of the cover to the high pressure fuel filter. You will need a 6mm adapter the fit your fuel pressure gauge in that opening.
 
We cleared the alarms and went back out on the water and after smooth riding for about 20 minutes the alarm sounded and the engine slowed up. We noticed it’s been happening when we deccelerate. We came back (no more alarms) and checked the codes and there were no codes to record.




chawk_man said:
A failed HO2 sensor will give you an alarm for most of the 225's but not all. It will not put the engine in SLOW mode or cause the missing that I saw in the video. Fuel pressure out of spec will also through a code "1". So, before replacing the HO2 sensor check the fuel pressure. It should be between 41 and 49 PSI at idle with the vacuum tube removed and pinched closed at the fuel pressure regulator. I suspect that is where your problem is.

You check the fuel pressure at the fuel pressure relief bolt that sits on top of the cover to the high pressure fuel filter. You will need a 6mm adapter the fit your fuel pressure gauge in that opening.
Click to expand...
 
We haven’t checked the fuel pressure because we don’t have the device to do so. If you have any recommendations on how a non-mechanic can check this please share with us.
 
When the alarm went off did the check engine (MIL) light come on on your key switch console? And the alarm is a long intermittent alarm, is that correct?

To test fuel pressure go to an auto parts place and buy a fuel pressure gauge and a 6 mm adapter for it. Back at the boat, take out the fuel pressure relief bolt that sits on top of the high pressure fuel filter. Screw in the fuel pressure gauge with the adapter. Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and clamp it closed. Start the engine, let it warm up a bit and at idle see if the fuel gauge reads between 41 to 48 PSI. Heck - I just repeated myself.

If fuel pressure is in spec then I'm sort of out of ideas on where to go next. Hopefully others will jump in with some ideas.
 
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