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Honda 225 intermittent alarm with overheat error code

OK we will try this next… But let me ask if it is not in spec what does this mean? What is the usual fix for this? I wish you lived in Westchester NY.
 
Can I ask two questions please? 1/ Have you got your temp light fixed because I believe you still have an overheat issue? 2/ Did you do as I suggested and have your mechanic remove the extension housing and check the grommet on the water tube where it enters the oil pan? Your symptoms are typical of an intermittent overheat which can be caused by this and looking at the state of your trim unit I would be very surprised if you do not find excessive corrosion at the oil pan entry. And one more thing, overheat is not logged as a code.
 
looking into work on the grommet.

Old engines suck.

QUOTE=iang6766;694745]Can I ask two questions please? 1/ Have you got your temp light fixed because I believe you still have an overheat issue? 2/ Did you do as I suggested and have your mechanic remove the extension housing and check the grommet on the water tube where it enters the oil pan? Your symptoms are typical of an intermittent overheat which can be caused by this and looking at the state of your trim unit I would be very surprised if you do not find excessive corrosion at the oil pan entry. And one more thing, overheat is not logged as a code.[/QUOTE]
 
Genweb105 - Looks like I took you down the rabbit hole. Ian is most likely exactly correct. I did no note that your overheat light was not working. I went back to the videos you posted. The check engine light did not come on. Had it been a fuel issue, it should have. So write off the code "1" as an anomaly, especially since it did not reoccur.

Thanks, Ian.
 
Hi Everyone,

I'm new to this forum. My name is Sven, I'm from the Neterlands and I own a Alson Rib with a Honda BF200 engine (±2011).
As it seems I'm having the same problems with my engine as Genweb105.

The problems started when someone was out with the boat and it stopped working. After some investigating it turned out there was water in the tank and the engine because the fuel float sensor wasn't correctly installed. I wanted to bring it to a mechanic, but since there's no one available out here during the high season I was forced to do some work myself. This is what I did to fix the problem:

- Drained the tank and put in new fuel.
- Replaced the HP and LP fuel filters (twice)
- Replaced the oil filter and put it new oil
- Replaced the impeller, impeller housing, o-ring, gasket

After this I seemed like the problem was fixed. We did a few hours wakeboarding on different days and had no problems what so ever. Just to be sure I took the boat to stay at a Mechanics place so he could connect his computer to look if there were any other problems. He didn't find any so I took it home again. After two days the same problems as Genweb105 started to occur: When going around 1500-1800 rpm the engine runs fine, but when I go beyond 1800-2000 rpm, sometimes directly, sometimes after 5 minutes, the console starts to beep continuously and the engine starts bucking like on the video of Genweb105.
The same Mechanic hooked up his computer again, but he could not see any problems in the Log. When we forced the failure during a ride, the computer said the O2 sensor was acting up. The sad thing is that the Mechanic doesn't know what to do next. I tried a few things like with an external tank directly in to the eninge, but to no avail.

Is there anyone who can help me out with this? Or have a clue of what could be going on?
 
See post #33 (above) from Ian. Quoying: "Have your mechanic remove the extension housing and check the grommet on the water tube where it enters the oil pan? Your symptoms are typical of an intermittent overheat which can be caused by this."
 
Hi chawk_man,

Thnx for your reply. Since I'm a bit of a newby around engines I don't really know what or where the grommet on the water tube is. Can you explain where I can find this? My mechanic is unavailable right know so I can try to remove the extension housing myself (?).


See post #33 (above) from Ian. Quoying: "Have your mechanic remove the extension housing and check the grommet on the water tube where it enters the oil pan? Your symptoms are typical of an intermittent overheat which can be caused by this."
 
It's a fairly straight forward job, just remove the gear case, lower mounts and then the ring of bolts holding the midsection onto the mountcase, and that's it.The shift shaft will just need a firm tank to remove, it's held in place with a little spring clip.
 
Hi Ian,

I removed the bolts that were in the mount case, but its still stuck. What do you mean with the lower mounts? I'll post a picture of what I can see.


It's a fairly straight forward job, just remove the gear case, lower mounts and then the ring of bolts holding the midsection onto the mountcase, and that's it.The shift shaft will just need a firm tank to remove, it's held in place with a little spring clip.
 
Hi everyone… We are back. After replacing a number of things and spending about 5K we got our alarm again. Our mechanic called us after thinking long and hard and recommended we clean all connections. My husband found a rotted positive power cable that’s goes from battery to junction block in bilge area To motor. We had two great rides and no karma. Tonight we drove about forty minutes and then while driving slow and slightly turning the alarm sounded. We had nothing again on the 40 minutes back. My husband is convinced it is this wire and that the rest of it might still be bad. So the problem isn’r cures but we are pretty confident as is our mechanic that it is not an overheat.
 
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