Hello, this boat (2003 Sea Ray 240) ran fine this spring, until a pinhole rotted between the water jacket and the valve area in the head which made it hydrolock when we tried starting it after it sat for a few hours trickling in.
So we replaced head gaskets, heads (new remans with the same cast #), intake gaskets, exhaust manifolds, risers, exhaust flappers (the ones that stop water from coming in from a wake), intake gaskets, spark plugs, wires, cap, and a few other things while we were in there.
When we reassembled we followed the procedure fro pre-loading the lifters with one full turn after lash was removed. This felt like a lot, but it seems that Mercruiser manuals state this spec. Although on most small block chevy's I see 1/4,1/3, and 1/2 more commonly so I'm curious what others have done in their Mercruiser.
Set distributor to point at #1 cylinder with timing mark lined up with Cyl #1 at TDC. Started up well, idled well after a little bit of learning out from excess priming and runs excellent at idle and up to mid-speed. We thought we were all set, then took it out on the water (it's docked at a marina) and couldn't get it to more than 3100RPM's. Just two of us on it, it usually gets on plane in less than 10 seconds 90% of the time and it was calm with minimal wind, wave, current. Shut it down, checked oil level (good) tried loosening distributor and moving it as much as I could clockwise and counter-clockwise (it's the flat cap so it only turns a little bit in each direction) and it didn't seem to do anything. I have the 48 pin ECM-555 so I think if you're close to #1 at TDC that's all you need to do and the computer does the rest of the timing but correct me if I'm wrong.
Did a compression test, got between 165-175 in all cylinders so they are pretty well balanced with what I think is a respectable number.
No weird noises, normal oil pressure, doesn't overheat but lacking power. What could it be? The boat ran 100% strong this spring before the water leaked into the cylinder and stopped it from being able to start.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, located in Providence RI.
Thanks,
Ryan
So we replaced head gaskets, heads (new remans with the same cast #), intake gaskets, exhaust manifolds, risers, exhaust flappers (the ones that stop water from coming in from a wake), intake gaskets, spark plugs, wires, cap, and a few other things while we were in there.
When we reassembled we followed the procedure fro pre-loading the lifters with one full turn after lash was removed. This felt like a lot, but it seems that Mercruiser manuals state this spec. Although on most small block chevy's I see 1/4,1/3, and 1/2 more commonly so I'm curious what others have done in their Mercruiser.
Set distributor to point at #1 cylinder with timing mark lined up with Cyl #1 at TDC. Started up well, idled well after a little bit of learning out from excess priming and runs excellent at idle and up to mid-speed. We thought we were all set, then took it out on the water (it's docked at a marina) and couldn't get it to more than 3100RPM's. Just two of us on it, it usually gets on plane in less than 10 seconds 90% of the time and it was calm with minimal wind, wave, current. Shut it down, checked oil level (good) tried loosening distributor and moving it as much as I could clockwise and counter-clockwise (it's the flat cap so it only turns a little bit in each direction) and it didn't seem to do anything. I have the 48 pin ECM-555 so I think if you're close to #1 at TDC that's all you need to do and the computer does the rest of the timing but correct me if I'm wrong.
Did a compression test, got between 165-175 in all cylinders so they are pretty well balanced with what I think is a respectable number.
No weird noises, normal oil pressure, doesn't overheat but lacking power. What could it be? The boat ran 100% strong this spring before the water leaked into the cylinder and stopped it from being able to start.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, located in Providence RI.
Thanks,
Ryan