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1992 Evinrude 115 hp Outboard starter problem

A

[email protected]

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I am new to boat repair. I needed to replace the starter and just did that by following some of the online directions. Now the starter does fire up but if feels like the flywheel is so sluggish it won't turn it. That wasn't a problem before the starter change. I have done a pull start on it and the flywheel seemed more fluid and would start. A related problem is that it continues to receive some power to the starter even after the key is off and removed...it is still making a sound. Perhaps I got something miswired? Any clue why the flywheel is showing more resistance?

The below link is a video taken of the attempt to start the motor.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ucnv5cUUe2LWL6wS9
 
Are you sure you got the correct starter ?-----Did you get it from an authorized dealer or some online source where everything fits everything ?----Possible issue with the lower unit ?----Get the battery charged and load tested.----There is only 1 wire to connect when changing the starter.---What else where you doing with wiring ?
 
racerone said:
Are you sure you got the correct starter ?-----Did you get it from an authorized dealer or some online source where everything fits everything ?----Possible issue with the lower unit ?----Get the battery charged and load tested.----There is only 1 wire to connect when changing the starter.---What else where you doing with wiring ?
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for replying. I purchased the starter from MarineEngine.com. I checked the battery on multi meter and got a response of 12.22. Re the wiring... there is only 1 wire on the starter which I believe is connected correctly. However, when I pulled off the Solenoid I discovered 1 black wire that I did not remember where it came from. The way it is shaped it looked like it connected behind the solenoid (using the solenoid mounting bolt) directly to the engine bock as a ground wire?? Strange thing is now even when I turn it off and actually remove the key the ignition the starter is still making noise like it still has some power to it.
 
racerone said:
Is it a factory original starter , yes or no ?----Part # of this starter that you got ?
Click to expand...

The starter part is Arco Part#5372
The engine is Model TE115TLEND...A 1992 Evinrude 115 hp outboard.

I double checked after your post to see if I got the order right and I think according to Marine Engine I ordered the correct one.
 
Tell us more.-------How long have you owned this motor ?-----Did the starter " problem " develop suddenly ?----Any issues with powerhead or the lower unit ?----Is your battery good and load tested ?----I have never heard a factory starter make noises like that.----I would send it back !!!
 
[email protected] said:
Thank you so much for replying. I purchased the starter from MarineEngine.com. I checked the battery on multi meter and got a response of 12.22. Re the wiring... there is only 1 wire on the starter which I believe is connected correctly. However, when I pulled off the Solenoid I discovered 1 black wire that I did not remember where it came from. The way it is shaped it looked like it connected behind the solenoid (using the solenoid mounting bolt) directly to the engine bock as a ground wire?? Strange thing is now even when I turn it off and actually remove the key the ignition the starter is still making noise like it still has some power to it.
Click to expand...

Connect that multimeter to the starter and see if it actually does have power to it with the key off, as you suspect. Also you say you have 12.22 volts at the battery. So what is the voltage at the solenoid and starter when attempting to start? That starter struggling like that sounds like a low voltage or bad ground to me. Do you know how to make voltage drop tests across individual components?

EDIT: Why did you replace the starter in the first place? Perhaps there was nothing wrong with it

I'm betting you have corroded battery cable connections. But that would be too simple. Your multimeter is your best friend.
 
Last edited:
fdrgator said:
Connect that multimeter to the starter and see if it actually does have power to it with the key off, as you suspect. Also you say you have 12.22 volts at the battery. So what is the voltage at the solenoid and starter when attempting to start? That starter struggling like that sounds like a low voltage or bad ground to me. Do you know how to make voltage drop tests across individual components?

EDIT: Why did you replace the starter in the first place? Perhaps there was nothing wrong with it

I'm betting you have corroded battery cable connections. But that would be too simple. Your multimeter is your best friend.
Click to expand...

I replaced the starter because when I turned the ignition the starter would just make a spinning sound and would not rise all the way to engage the fly wheel. I would then manually make it rise and engage the flywheel then start the motor. But that did not happen every time...sometimes it would just start as it should. But the last 2x out I could not even get it started doing it making the manual connection to the flywheel it would just give me the Brrrrp Brrrp then nothing. So that began my journey to replace the starter, which seemed simple enough. But now I have Gremlins.
 
I have owned the boat 2 years. This starter has been giving me this problem for a while. I replaced the starter because when I turned the ignition the starter would just make a spinning sound and would not rise all the way to engage the fly wheel. I would then manually make it rise and engage the flywheel then start the motor. But that did not happen every time...sometimes it would just start as it should. But the last 2x out I could not even get it started doing it making the manual connection to the flywheel it would just give me the Brrrrp Brrrp then nothing. So that began my journey to replace the starter, which seemed simple enough.

The battery is new last year (Interstate).

I am not sure what a load test is but I will look that up and give it a test. Thanks for that idea!

I don't know of any issues with the powerhead or lower unit. I had a mechanic do a lot of work on it last year going through the whole thing...spent a lot of $ there. So I would hope those issues don't exist.

The old starter was just random as to when it would act up or not. So I can understand why a mechanic would not have even realized the problem because sometimes it would just start perfectly fine.

After being stranded 2x with it I had to try and resolve the problem.
 
racerone said:
Tell us more.-------How long have you owned this motor ?-----Did the starter " problem " develop suddenly ?----Any issues with powerhead or the lower unit ?----Is your battery good and load tested ?----I have never heard a factory starter make noises like that.----I would send it back !!!
Click to expand...

I have owned the boat 2 years. This starter has been giving me this problem for a while. I replaced the starter because when I turned the ignition the starter would just make a spinning sound and would not rise all the way to engage the fly wheel. I would then manually make it rise and engage the flywheel then start the motor. But that did not happen every time...sometimes it would just start as it should. But the last 2x out I could not even get it started doing it making the manual connection to the flywheel it would just give me the Brrrrp Brrrp then nothing. So that began my journey to replace the starter, which seemed simple enough.

The battery is new last year (Interstate).

I am not sure what a load test is but I will look that up and give it a test. Thanks for that idea!

I don't know of any issues with the powerhead or lower unit. I had a mechanic do a lot of work on it last year going through the whole thing...spent a lot of $ there. So I would hope those issues don't exist.

The old starter was just random as to when it would act up or not. So I can understand why a mechanic would not have even realized the problem because sometimes it would just start perfectly fine.

After being stranded 2x with it I had to try and resolve the problem.
 
Fact-------Before I would spend money for a new starter I would take the old one apart for inspection / testing !!------Often times I install new brushes if they are half worn.----Get them for $4.50 or $6.00 a set now at local starter alternator place.---Very easy to do as well.----But if you have money to spend you can eventually solve the problem---Sorry to be blunt here.
 
All symptoms suggest a high resistance (shows up as voltage drop) in the circuit. If we can assume the battery itself is OK. Again, the multimeter and some knowledge of how to use it, is your best friend.

If it were me, I would begin by removing the battery cable connections and clean everything shiny bright and reinstall tightly. That will fix 90% of such problems as you are experiencing. Well ok, maybe 50% and another 40% being a bad battery. If those simple things don't fix it, then on to the troubleshooting.
 
racerone said:
Fact-------Before I would spend money for a new starter I would take the old one apart for inspection / testing !!------Often times I install new brushes if they are half worn.----Get them for $4.50 or $6.00 a set now at local starter alternator place.---Very easy to do as well.----But if you have money to spend you can eventually solve the problem---Sorry to be blunt here.
Click to expand...


Blunt doesn't bother me. I'm a rookie here. Learning my way through this stuff. You guys are very helpful and I am going to try and work through this problem.
 
fdrgator said:
All symptoms suggest a high resistance (shows up as voltage drop) in the circuit. If we can assume the battery itself is OK. Again, the multimeter and some knowledge of how to use it, is your best friend.

If it were me, I would begin by removing the battery cable connections and clean everything shiny bright and reinstall tightly. That will fix 90% of such problems as you are experiencing. Well ok, maybe 50% and another 40% being a bad battery. If those simple things don't fix it, then on to the troubleshooting.
Click to expand...

Great suggestions. I will do this and see where it leads me.
 
[email protected] said:
The below link is a video taken of the attempt to start the motor.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ucnv5cUUe2LWL6wS9
Click to expand...

The battery sounds like it is weak or almost dead. You should have at least 12.4 standing volts, and it should drop to no less than 9 volts during cranking.

[email protected] said:
Re the wiring... there is only 1 wire on the starter which I believe is connected correctly. However, when I pulled off the Solenoid I discovered 1 black wire that I did not remember where it came from. The way it is shaped it looked like it connected behind the solenoid (using the solenoid mounting bolt) directly to the engine bock as a ground wire?? Strange thing is now even when I turn it off and actually remove the key the ignition the starter is still making noise like it still has some power to it.
Click to expand...

As you have discovered, that black wire provides a ground for the trigger circuit of the solenoid. Make sure that ground is clean and connected properly.
The other small bolt on the solenoid is for the power side of the trigger circuit. It should be hot (12v) only when the key is turned to the START position, and dead when key is out. If any voltage is reaching there with the key out, you have other problems - possibly a wire shorting to voltage, or there could be a problem with the key switch itself. You gotta break it down and see if anything changes. For example, if you eliminate half of the circuit and the problem still exists, you know that the part you eliminated is not causing the issue. But if the issue clears up after disconnecting a portion of the circuit, then the problem lies in that portion. It's a matter of turning the complex into many simples. I never fully understood that when I was first starting out. But you'll get it. Start with the easy stuff. Make sure you don't have corroded or loose connections, or wires that have rubbed through on a sharp edge somewhere and causing a short. Things like that. So start with the battery voltage, and making sure you have clean and tight terminal connections, and go from there.
Hope this helps!
 
Yeah, 12.2 Volts is only about 50-60% charged. But it should still be able to crank it. CarMech is more generous than me. I wouldn't settle for less than 10V cranking, and even then would suspect a dead cell.
 
If you still have the old starter then take it apart for inspection.-------Look at the brushes.----Take an ohm reading from shaft to commutator segments.-------If your old starter proves to be good still then you need to look for other issues !
 
[email protected] said:
Great suggestions. I will do this and see where it leads me.
Click to expand...

I cleaned every connection like a mirror and made sure everything was tight. Same result. Then I checked with a multimeter from the battery, to the positive battery connection on top of the solenoid, to the bottom output of the solenoid, to the connecting cable from the solenoid to the starter...all are showing 12+ volts flowing through. Then it drops off right at the starter connection. I called the starter manufacturer and they are saying I have resistance somewhere. I know I am brand new at this stuff but I feel like I just articulated that I chased the voltage from the battery straight through to the last end point and it flows through no problem until I make the last starter connection.

I have the battery on charger to see if I can get it up to 12.6 v and then give it one last try and see if it is simply a bad battery.

Short of that it has been frustrating yet good learning for me and my son. Prior to this we have barely ever used a multimeter and had no idea what a solenoid even was. So experience counts for something and your input on this forum has been awesome.

I really appreciate the input from this group. It may be time for me to take it in and let a mechanic solve my problem so I can get back out on the water.
 
CarMech1969 said:
The battery sounds like it is weak or almost dead. You should have at least 12.4 standing volts, and it should drop to no less than 9 volts during cranking.



As you have discovered, that black wire provides a ground for the trigger circuit of the solenoid. Make sure that ground is clean and connected properly.
The other small bolt on the solenoid is for the power side of the trigger circuit. It should be hot (12v) only when the key is turned to the START position, and dead when key is out. If any voltage is reaching there with the key out, you have other problems - possibly a wire shorting to voltage, or there could be a problem with the key switch itself. You gotta break it down and see if anything changes. For example, if you eliminate half of the circuit and the problem still exists, you know that the part you eliminated is not causing the issue. But if the issue clears up after disconnecting a portion of the circuit, then the problem lies in that portion. It's a matter of turning the complex into many simples. I never fully understood that when I was first starting out. But you'll get it. Start with the easy stuff. Make sure you don't have corroded or loose connections, or wires that have rubbed through on a sharp edge somewhere and causing a short. Things like that. So start with the battery voltage, and making sure you have clean and tight terminal connections, and go from there.
Hope this helps!
Click to expand...

I will go back and take a look at some of this.

I cleaned every connection like a mirror and made sure everything was tight. Same result. Then I checked with a multimeter from the battery, to the positive battery connection on top of the solenoid, to the bottom output of the solenoid, to the connecting cable from the solenoid to the starter...all are showing 12+ volts flowing through. Then it drops off right at the starter connection. I called the starter manufacturer and they are saying I have resistance somewhere. I know I am brand new at this stuff but I feel like I just articulated that I chased the voltage from the battery straight through to the last end point and it flows through no problem until I make the last starter connection.

I have the battery on charger to see if I can get it up to 12.6 v and then give it one last try and see if it is simply a bad battery.

Short of that it has been frustrating yet good learning for me and my son. Prior to this we have barely ever used a multimeter and had no idea what a solenoid even was. So experience counts for something and your input on this forum has been awesome.

I really appreciate the input from this group. It may be time for me to take it in and let a mechanic solve my problem so I can get back out on the water.
 
racerone said:
If you still have the old starter then take it apart for inspection.-------Look at the brushes.----Take an ohm reading from shaft to commutator segments.-------If your old starter proves to be good still then you need to look for other issues !
Click to expand...

I do still have the old starter and I think I am going to take you up on your advice. I will break this one down and learn on it and try and get it working again. Maybe use it in the future.

I cleaned every connection like a mirror and made sure everything was tight. Same result. Then I checked with a multimeter from the battery, to the positive battery connection on top of the solenoid, to the bottom output of the solenoid, to the connecting cable from the solenoid to the starter...all are showing 12+ volts flowing through. Then it drops off right at the starter connection. I called the starter manufacturer and they are saying I have resistance somewhere. I know I am brand new at this stuff but I feel like I just articulated that I chased the voltage from the battery straight through to the last end point and it flows through no problem until I make the last starter connection.

I have the battery on charger to see if I can get it up to 12.6 v and then give it one last try and see if it is simply a bad battery.

Short of that it has been frustrating yet good learning for me and my son. Prior to this we have barely ever used a multimeter and had no idea what a solenoid even was. So experience counts for something and your input on this forum has been awesome.

I really appreciate the input from this group. It may be time for me to take it in and let a mechanic solve my problem so I can get back out on the water.
 
I cleaned every connection like a mirror and made sure everything was tight. Same result. Then I checked with a multimeter from the battery, to the positive battery connection on top of the solenoid, to the bottom output of the solenoid, to the connecting cable from the solenoid to the starter...all are showing 12+ volts flowing through. Then it drops off right at the starter connection. I called the starter manufacturer and they are saying I have resistance somewhere. I know I am brand new at this stuff but I feel like I just articulated that I chased the voltage from the battery straight through to the last end point and it flows through no problem until I make the last starter connection.

I have the battery on charger to see if I can get it up to 12.6 v and then give it one last try and see if it is simply a bad battery. You and CarMech are strongly suggesting battery so I am going to test your theory before I take it in for service. Awesome advice and thank you for responding.

Short of that it has been frustrating yet good learning for me and my son. Prior to this we have barely ever used a multimeter and had no idea what a solenoid even was. So experience counts for something and your input on this forum has been awesome.

I really appreciate the input from this group. It may be time for me to take it in and let a mechanic solve my problem so I can get back out on the water.
 
CarMech1969 said:
The battery sounds like it is weak or almost dead. You should have at least 12.4 standing volts, and it should drop to no less than 9 volts during cranking.



As you have discovered, that black wire provides a ground for the trigger circuit of the solenoid. Make sure that ground is clean and connected properly.
The other small bolt on the solenoid is for the power side of the trigger circuit. It should be hot (12v) only when the key is turned to the START position, and dead when key is out. If any voltage is reaching there with the key out, you have other problems - possibly a wire shorting to voltage, or there could be a problem with the key switch itself. You gotta break it down and see if anything changes. For example, if you eliminate half of the circuit and the problem still exists, you know that the part you eliminated is not causing the issue. But if the issue clears up after disconnecting a portion of the circuit, then the problem lies in that portion. It's a matter of turning the complex into many simples. I never fully understood that when I was first starting out. But you'll get it. Start with the easy stuff. Make sure you don't have corroded or loose connections, or wires that have rubbed through on a sharp edge somewhere and causing a short. Things like that. So start with the battery voltage, and making sure you have clean and tight terminal connections, and go from there.
Hope this helps!
Click to expand...


Your final post helped me over the hill. We did most of what was suggested on this forum. Then you chimed in about the battery. I gave it a good charge and it had standing volts at 13.4. The engine cranked right up. We have had it run for several minutes without any problems and have done several start and stops with no problems. The starter definitely needed replaced and now I will likely add replacing the battery to make sure I am good. Thank You very much for helping me.
 
fdrgator said:
Yeah, 12.2 Volts is only about 50-60% charged. But it should still be able to crank it. CarMech is more generous than me. I wouldn't settle for less than 10V cranking, and even then would suspect a dead cell.
Click to expand...

Your final post helped me over the hill. We did most of what was suggested on this forum. Then you chimed in about the battery. I gave it a good charge and it had standing volts at 13.4. The engine cranked right up. We have had it run for several minutes without any problems and have done several start and stops with no problems. The starter definitely needed replaced and now I will likely add replacing the battery to make sure I am good. Thank You very much for helping me.
 
Well ----post # 2 said to charge the battery and get it load tested.-----But typically folks ignore that or do not understand how important it is on these outboards.----They just will not start if the cranking is slow.
 
racerone said:
Well ----post # 2 said to charge the battery and get it load tested.-----But typically folks ignore that or do not understand how important it is on these outboards.----They just will not start if the cranking is slow.
Click to expand...
Good point.
A weak battery is also a great way to fry the regulator/rectifier ;)
 
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