Logo

2013 Honda BF60A Stalls out at 2500 rpm after sitting for 30 minutes of normal use

Getinwet

New member
Hello,
My 2013 Honda BF60A has 15 hours on it. Not run since 2014. I changed oil, filters, cleaned built in tank (Crestliner Boat), plugs etc. It ran perfect first time out, 2nd time I had a slight hesitation at 3500 rpm and then fine after a couple minutes, 3rd time out it ran fine for about 45 minutes, parked it at dock and tried to restart it. Hard to start, and once started it would just shut down around 2500 rpm's then slowly get better after that? Went out a 4th time after replacing fuel lines did the same thing? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Getinwet
 
HI, did you sort it out?
If not , then i would replace HP fuel filter in VST and check whether the HP is priming.
I have the same motors and found that the ecu runs the HP pump and the FPD was cutting out , i rewired it using a relay, whereby the ecu gives a ground to the relay coil and constant positive to the relay coil and replaced filter and pump.
Runs like a dream.
 
Hello Thanks for your reply! 2 days ago I got it. Replaced hp pump, pressure regulator and what I believe caused the problem, the little piece of rubber the end of the hp pump pushes into. I read about this piece in other posts and believe it was the culprit. Honda changed the length of this piece presumably because of this issue? When it heats up it contracts and impedes fuel flow to the fuel rail. 18.00 part (.50 to make it). Thanks Again
 
So that's a total of 4 times, that we've seen here this season, that same part has caused a very difficult to find issue. 3 BF50D's and now a BF60A

And to my knowledge, we all had to figure this out the hard way..... NOTHING from Honda. I find that disappointing myself.

On my engine, I found that part, if it was allowed to push in too far, it would block off the outlet. Becoming inserted too far happens easily if that part is pushed into the cavity and having the fuel pump pushed into it. I figured that was a silly design and notched the "grommet" so it couldn't possibly block the outlet again.

Since then, I figured if the grommet were installed on the fuel pump first, THEN inserted into the cavity, there would be no issue. This way, it would be impossible for that grommet to ever block the outlet. Still a crappy design on the part, but it will work -IF- installed correctly. Just knowing it can be installed incorrectly, which will impede fuel flow, is the key here..... -Al
 
Last edited:
Yes ,i agree crappy design , would expect they would of sorted it out ,when complaints came in, but anyrate ,i modified mine by cutting a small piece off.

Havent tested mine yet,as we are restricted under lockdown rules, so cant take the boat out to test under normal operating conditions.

Sorry to deviate from the thread, but does anyone know whe must the timing belt be replaced?
The outboards only have 500 hrs at the moment.

Thanks
 
I don't think I'd be worried about a '13 engine with 500 hrs on it for a few more years anyway. I'd be tempted to replace one if I were servicing a 90's engine, but even then they're still LOOKING pretty good. Personally, I'm not familiar with any issue with chronic failures.
 
OK, so it ran perfect all day long after replacing HP Pump/Regulator and the rubber piece the HP pump connects into. 3 days later before hitting the lake I started it with the muffs in the driveway for a few minutes as I've done with all my boats the last 40 years just to be safe, it started just fine. I got to the Lake 20 minutes later and it would crank over but no start?? I'll post what I find but I must say, I've had about every motor out there through out the years and have dealt with all the normal/usual issues they all have but this Honda is absolutely the worst off them by far!!??
 
Geez, talk about frustrating.....

When these fuelies are right, they're great, but when they aren't..... they make a great case for staying with carbs!

So when the anger subsides a bit, and you resume your troubleshooting, holler with what you're seeing. Hopefully it's still broke and doesn't start right up and pretend nothing has happened. Erratic issues are just the pits....

Do you have fuel pressure? Spark?
 
Hi Gettinwet, i know the feeling,trust me. I have twin BF60 a 2012 models, and from the beginning had issues with them,limped home on a couple of occasions when out 30 miles at sea, with your heart in your mouth,just dreading the other motor would crap out, in heavy seas might i add. My experience with these motor are to say the least , dismal.Honda is supposed to be one of the top outboard builders , they were the first to develop 4 stroke outboards in my knowledge,but their back up service is very poor.

The biggest issue i think is the fuelling , if something is not on point,you will have issues,such as hard start,intermittent misfires, stalling, etc.

i would suggest you go through the whole fuel system, from tank to injectors.
My last problem was like yours,and i replaced exactly what you did,but still had issues. I found out after a bit of research that there was an issue with the FPD in the ECU on some models,altough Honda never recalled it , and the HP fuel pump check valve crapping out.

on 2 HP fuel pumps i installed , one after 40 hrs use crapped out.
The check valve is to supposed to maintain the pressure on you fuel rail, otherwise the pump doesnt build up pressure sufficiently , especially at higher rpms.

what i did was to replace the fuel pumps with Quantum pumps and i rewired the pumps through a relay, so the ECU ground switches the relay on and off.

The fuell pump driver was cutting out if i connected directly to the pump,with the relay the load is not carried by the driver but by the relay.

Does you HP pump come on for +- 2 seconds when you switch the ignition on(motor not running)?

if the driver is weak it will not,or it will come on for a split second and cut out. I would try that , install a relay ,and go from there.

Maybe someone can advise you better, thats what i did on mine. They run Much better at idle , just have to test them on the water,and see what happens at higher rpms under load.

hope you sort it out.
 
Just to rectify something i said , the check valve is there to prevent pressure leaking back through the pump.

Did you check fuel pressure? and whether it is retaining that pressure after stopping.

You will have to make an adaptor screw so you can check the pressure with a gauge.
 
Back
Top