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2009 5.7 cusaderclassic hydrolock

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Ryan71

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Hydrolocked my engine trying to start after shutdown after about an hour cruise. Pulled plugs cranked oiled cylinders and restarted. Assumed 10 year old risers were the culprit and changed them. Hydrolocked too more times at dock over the course of a couple days of running at dock. Pulled boat on trailer and know am having a hard time starting engine.. Tine up last season. Thought is that it is backfiring Dieseling and sucking water? Any advice would be appreciated.
 
I have ruled out cracked block because engine is freshwater cooled . Water in cylinders is salt.. as for disieling leaning towards that.. my fuel pump just stopped working yesterday . That is the cause of the no start. Diagnosed as a bad oil pressure fuel pump interlock switch.. my question could this have been slowly going bad and effecting engine performance causing hydrolock?? Thanks for reply..
 
Those switches are, unfortunately, frequent failure items...it could have been intermittent and been a contributor to the problem...
 
makomark said:
Those switches are, unfortunately, frequent failure items...it could have been intermittent and been a contributor to the problem...
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Still no luck getting started. Losing faith. Should the fuel pump run for a short time when key is put into run position.. I recall it running every time key was switched to run. That is not happening. Only time I here pump now is after trying to start engine.. it will run after cranking for a few seconds??
 
Ryan71 said:
Still no luck getting started. Losing faith. Should the fuel pump run for a short time when key is put into run position.. I recall it running every time key was switched to run. That is not happening. Only time I here pump now is after trying to start engine.. it will run after cranking for a few seconds??
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Also checked coil. Had 3.9 ohms from positive to negative .
 
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without the ECU, the pump won't run until you start to crank it - if it has the 'old style' starter solenoid. Many have added a momentary switch to enable a 'fill the float bowl' function. And most have a fuse in the fuel pump lead - sometimes the connectors will corrode and give you intermittents...
 
You seem to be chasing multiple problems. That can happen with boats! BUT....has your original problem with salt water in the engine gone away? To my way of thinking, since it happened multiple times, it can ONLY be the elbows (and/or riser if you have them and they are salt cooled). And if you changed them and you still have the issue then either you screwed up the gasketing (it can happen) or you failed to retighten after the first heat/cool cycle which (I am told) can make them leak. So retighten and if it does not go away you need to pull the elbows and redo the job. Make sure the cast iron surfaces are clean of paint and are flat. Continued saltwater in the engine (however small) will cause lots of long term issues.

The other start issues are likely unrelated to the salt water leak and the local fuel system/carb experts can work you though them.
 
Thank you for info. Risers were retightened after test run. Next day. My thought on the hydolock is that the water may be getting sucked back in by a backfire or dieseling? May be a good idea to redo gaskets and block off plate but my thought is if that was the cause it would probably happen on trailer running off hose??
thanks again
 
Problem solved. Bad ignition coil causing over cranking and eventual backfire causing sea water to be pulled back into cylinders at risers. Changed coil and fires right up. Thanks all who helped
Ryan
 
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