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At wits end 1997 Evinrude 40 hp won't idle and stay running.

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Ken47374

Member
I have previously posted about my 1997 Evinrude 40 hp (e40tleuc),but I still haven't been able to get it running.
It has now started and run until I turned the water on to the muffs. That little bit of load made it quit running and now refuses to restart.
I have:
Replaced all fuel lines except the one from the tank.
Had the carbs professionally rebuilt.
Checked the spark air gap which is good to 7/16" and set the correct spark plugs to .030.
Installed new fuel pump (model with two nipples).
Checked the primer solenoid for clicking and replaced the top end parts.
Set the various linkages to OMC specs per their video.
Gas is fresh and oil is at 50:1 ratio.
Considered pulling the flywheel to check the key, but from watching the YouTube video I am certain I would screw up more things than it's worth.
Im handy enough, but I don't know about boat motors except what you guys have been kind enough to share.
Local dealer is busy until October.
Any thoughts would sure be welcome. Thanks.
 
If you are saying that you start this motor and then turn the water on -----We need to know why you think that is OK to do !!----Why can you not check for a sheared key using timing marks ?------Have you contacted the folks that you have sent money to for this engine and carburetor work ???
 
I have tried to start this motor hundreds of times now over the past few weeks and the spigot for the hose is only a few feet away. No need to have the water on if it won't even come close to starting.
I would love to check for a sheared key using the timing marks if I knew how to. Is there a place I can go to learn how to do it? I'm not lazy just ignorant.
I have not contacted the vendor figuring that it is something that I am doing or not doing that is the problem.
 
I did the research and learned how to check the timing marks. Still don't know if I'm good or bad, but this is what I found. When the top cylinder is at top dead center (as checked using a dial indicator) the triangle cast into the block points directly at the T on the flywheel. Is this correct?
 
If you tried to start this motor " hundreds of times " there is something wrong.----Stop using the " crank and hope " method.----Hurry run to your friendly shop and sort this out !!!
 
racerone, I fear I've exuasted your patience, but not before you taught me about troubleshooting by checking compressuon with my new compression tester (140/135). checking air gap spark with my new spark tester (good to 7/16"); assuring the function of the primer solenoid and replacing the top end parts; static test of a sheared key by finding TDC on the top cylinder with my new dial indicator and observing that that the timing mark on the block points directly at the T mark on the flywheel.

You have helped me learn much about these engines. I have not used the 'crank and hope ' method and "hurry and running" to the dealer is not an option. Quitting is not in this old man's nature. Again, I thank you for your trouble. Maybe someone else on this forum will help me finish the job.

I have been able to start the motor once with the red valve on the primer set to open; the motor ran good at idle for about 15 to 20 seconds and then died sounding like it ran out of fuel and then it would not restart. The carburetors were professionally rebuilt, but I can't help but wonder about them. And I see references on other posts about reed valves but I don't know anything about them.

Anybody have thoughts about the next steps I can take to solve this mystery? Thanks.
 
Ok,old man to old man.
You got spark,ya got compression,so whats left? Fuel.not so fast.
Put a timing light on #1plug wire,crank engine,mite need another person here,point timing lite at flywheel at pointer what do you see?
Have you done a sync&link?
 
Is everything on this '97 40 power head belong to this 97-40?? NO 99-50 parts,correct?
What is the model number of the 40?
 
You need to look at all the hoses going to the carburetors.----Also remove the drain plugs on the carburetor bowls one at a time.----Is there fuel in the float bowls ?----Does fuel drain out the float bowls when you operate the manual pump , yes or no ?
 
All new hoses on the powerhead. Removed drain plugs on both carbs and there was fuel in both bowls that drained out.
I don't understand about manual pump?
 
New clue - (please be kind, I'm an old newbie) a freind suggested that if I could get it started for even just a bit, try spraying fuel into the mouth of the carb. I did and it kept running as long as I kept spraying fuel into it. I don't know what that means.
 
To clarify, it means that given enough fuel the thing will run.. But I don't know what to adjust on the carbs. How much and in what order. Thanks.
 
There is something wrong with your carburetors !!----This should be easy to figure out.-----Don't look at anything else until you sort out the blocked / plugged / non functioning carburetors !!
 
No sir I did not have a timing light and I do not have a service manual. I will get a timimg light tomorrow and I will order a service manual this evening.

Something must be done with the carburetors and I want to do it. Could you guide me where to start? I did pay plenty to have them professionally rebuilt so assuming the vendor is competent where should I start? Thanks again.
 
Ken47374 said:
No sir I did not have a timing light and I do not have a service manual. I will get a timimg light tomorrow and I will order a service manual this evening.

Something must be done with the carburetors and I want to do it. Could you guide me where to start? I did pay plenty to have them professionally rebuilt so assuming the vendor is competent where should I start? Thanks again.
Click to expand...
You have already started,you ordered a service manual. I hope it was an evinrude factory manual.it will make you wander why you paid someone to rebuild carburetors.
 
Carburetors are just a simple device that responds to air pulled through the venturi.-----Some thing is wrong here and it should be elegantly simple to figure out.---Sorry , I can not see / hear / feel your motor to figure this out !!!
 
Update - I asked my car-guy buddy to come over and help me read the timing. Just by cranking the motor over (not running) the reading was approx. 5 degrees BTC.
More interesting is that after that exercise we started it and kept it running at elevated rpms, he held his hand near the mouth of the carbs and observed that the bottom carb was only pulling in about half as much air as the top carb.
Just to see if there was something obviously blocking the flow of air I removed both carbs and don't see anything obvious about the carbs or the area behind the carbs.. Any ideas? Thanks.
 
Ken47374 said:
Update - I asked my car-guy buddy to come over and help me read the timing. Just by cranking the motor over (not running) the reading was approx. 5 degrees BTC.
More interesting is that after that exercise we started it and kept it running at elevated rpms, he held his hand near the mouth of the carbs and observed that the bottom carb was only pulling in about half as much air as the top carb.
Just to see if there was something obviously blocking the flow of air I removed both carbs and don't see anything obvious about the carbs or the area behind the carbs.. Any ideas? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Overhaul both carburators
Sync&link motor
 
Maybe an issue with reed valves / lower crankshaft seal ( is the seal housing even there ) on your block.-----Ask the rebuilder if you have to install that part yourself perhaps ?.----Far fetched but possible.
 
After all the help that you all have rendered to me in trying to solve my motor's idle problem, I thought I would share with you the problem and solution. I took the boat/motor to a repair shop. He discovered that the bottom carburator, which had been rebuilt by a shop that specializes in carb rebuilds, had the 0337808 gasket installed up side down. Both carbs were rebuilt at the same time by the same person, one was correct the other not correct.
I am going to request that the rebuilder credit me the $179 cost of the visit to the local repair shop.
Thank you all again for your efforts in trying to help me.
 
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