Help me identify which electrics are missing from this stripped 1977 Evinrude 35?

Would like to verify all the electronics I need to order for this stripped 1977 35HP Evinrude.
I plan to order a rectifier(#6), 2 coils(#42) and I will replace the existing powerpack(#37) as well.
I'd like to try to reuse the stator(#26), charge coil(#21) and ignition sensor(#11). How often do these items fail?
I also plan to reuse the electric starter and choke solenoid(I have 2 solenoids to test and pick from). The starter has a known issue with engaging/disengaging the flywheel so I need todisassemble/clean and inspect to see what I'm getting into. The flywheel teeth aren't worn, I need to check the starter drive gear.
I'm not sure on the wiring harness yet. I may need to build or replace portions of it.
What am I not thinking of? Thanks

Have you removed the flywheel to see what parts are there ?------Any other trouble shooting / inspection done on this motor.----What if you spend all the money and find it runs poorly ?

Do a compression test first . as racerone said, that would be alot of money with no compression.. I just fixed a '76. 50 hp. Their is alot of old harnesses out there. We have plenty. ( fixed motor all used parts)

Hey, thanks for the quick replies, I appreciate it.
Valid concerns from you, I didn't want to clutter up the first post with background because I was already getting long-winded.
So here's the story and what I've done so far:
I got this motor from my father in-law who quit using it when it starting popping out of forward gear on take-off. It's been setting a couple years. He cannibalized some of the externals to get a Johnson 25 running(coils, carb, not sure what else).
I believe him when he says it was running well when he stored it. I'm going through it anyway because I want to know it's reliable, my 9 year old son will be with me most of the time.
The compression test showed 120 PSI and 110 PSI on the cylinders.
I took the foot off and tore it completely down. No damage at all to the forward or reverse gear but the clutch dog shoulders showed a slight amount of rounding. I have a new clutch dog for it. I believe it was popping out of gear because of tolerance stacking. The shift rod was slightly bent, the bushings for the shifter lockout lever were completely worn out too. All of this combined to not fully engage the clutch dog to the forward gear. I have all new bushings and have straightened the lower shift rail. I may change the detent spring under the clutch dog as well.
I have all new gaskets and seals for the lower end, the impeller was changed just before he quit using it and is like new.
I noticed water leaking from the upper water tube grommet when I checked water flow. I will be pulling the exhaust housing to get to it and change it out, so new gaskets there too. I plan to change the thermostat and reed assembly also.
I have sourced a 1978 35HP carb that came with alot of the small things I was missing, air silencer, linkages, extra fuel pump, electric choke solenoid, etc.
Anything else I should be thinking of? Let me know if yo have any other questions and THANKS again.

No need for a rectifier,you have no thing to wire it to.

That’s the kind of help I need. What does a rectifier do? It’s listed on the schematic but I don’t know why. Thanks

So from what I’ve read, I don’t need the rectifier if I’m not interested in charging a battery, correct?
The charge coil and ignition sensor, are these items that need replacing often or should I not worry about starting off with fresh ones?

The only thing it looks like you are missing is the ignition coils. You should be replacing the forward gear also. The shift rod bent because it was jumping out of gear. The bushings wore out because there was probably water in there.

The forward gear has no damage, not really even any noticeable wear. This is my first time in a foot but I’m not unfamiliar with hypoid gears. I have set up ring and pinions before. I brought the assembly to a local propeller shop and their mechanic agrees with what I’ve described here. The oil had no water in when I pulled it apart. I cleaned everything well and found no appreciable metal residue. The bushings I mentioned for the shift lockout lever are external, not supporting the shift rod.

Good luck with your motor.