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1982 Evinrude 60HP 2 Stroke STRANGELY DYING!!??

But the plugs in it atm arnt the ones on the manual they are just ones that were in it already when we bought it.
Recommended plugs: QL77JC4
Plugs in it: BR9HS-10
 
The flywheel spins.-----The magnets sweep by the charge coil and sensor coil ( 1 of each ) that times the spark.-----So answer this very important question.-------Does the spark jump a gap of 7/16" ( 12 mm ) yes , no or no idea why that is important.----Timing can not be different between the 2 cylinders.
 
No problem, just go to the main Evenrude forum page and up at the top left right under where it says online manuals there is a link to make your post.
 
JamesRo said:
It I'm sorry to step in. I'm trying to post a new post question on replacing Reed valves for an 88 Evinrude 40 horse
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If you go on YouTube Dangar marine he’s a great guy extremely helpful basically helped me do my entire boat from his videos and there’s one on reed valves
 
That is what i thought but sure as i went with that thought without knowing i would be wrong. Glad that you threw in on this except for reeds I'm running out of ideas and i dont want to lead him wrong.
 
racerone said:
The flywheel spins.-----The magnets sweep by the charge coil and sensor coil ( 1 of each ) that times the spark.-----So answer this very important question.-------Does the spark jump a gap of 7/16" ( 12 mm ) yes , no or no idea why that is important.----Timing can not be different between the 2 cylinders.
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so if we assume that the bottom cylinder isn’t firing but the plug works in the top, this could a problem from under the flywheel with the magnets or down to the ignition coil? Or should I change to the recommended plugs ?
 
You are confused and struggling with a simple motor.--.------If you answer questions you will get somewhere and make progress.----Once more, does spark jump a gap of 7/16" on both leads , yes or no ????
 
Buy a simple spark test tool or make one.------Glue 2 pieces of wire on a piece of carboard with a gap of 7/16" between them.------Now attach one end to the motor block ( ground ) and stick the other end in a spark plug boot.----Crank over the motor and observe spark at the gap.
 
racerone said:
Buy a simple spark test tool or make one.------Glue 2 pieces of wire on a piece of carboard with a gap of 7/16" between them.------Now attach one end to the motor block ( ground ) and stick the other end in a spark plug boot.----Crank over the motor and observe spark at the gap.
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i just went to do it and before I could I noticed that the battery was low charge could so it’s on charge now and I will do the test tomorrow but could this been the cause of the problem?
 
racerone said:
Buy a simple spark test tool or make one.------Glue 2 pieces of wire on a piece of carboard with a gap of 7/16" between them.------Now attach one end to the motor block ( ground ) and stick the other end in a spark plug boot.----Crank over the motor and observe spark at the gap.
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Just did it with my next door neighbour who is a genius with electronics as he had been wiring helicopters and what not for 50 years, but anyway we have tested all wires and everything that should be getting power is and he has drawn a detailed diagram of the wiring which has helped and we did the spark thing and sure enough it jumped the gap so seems to not be a ignition coil problem but still not firing in the bottom cylinder however it is wet with fuel ????? Very strange
 
Let's see what we can do from here, first the plugs you described are equivalent but two different brands, second unless racerone can suggest something else I would check the sealing of the reed valves next. Take any screen off the front of the carb and put a piece of paper right up against the inlet of the carb. Now turn the engine over and see if the paper is drawn into the carb which is what should happen, if it's blown out away from the mouth of the carb then the reeds aren't sealing.
 
Swagonmaster said:
Let's see what we can do from here, first the plugs you described are equivalent but two different brands, second unless racerone can suggest something else I would check the sealing of the reed valves next. Take any screen off the front of the carb and put a piece of paper right up against the inlet of the carb. Now turn the engine over and see if the paper is drawn into the carb which is what should happen, if it's blown out away from the mouth of the carb then the reeds aren't sealing.
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I took the reed valves off yesterday and here’s what happened, gasket was torn when prying off from the block which is to be expected and then unscrewed reed valves from the main piece and inspected and in the bottom one a cap which is on the air box fell out, so this cap I haven’t seen even when I bought the boat it is plastic and around the size of an eyeball it looked to be a little bit chewed up and I suspecting the previous owners found a problem and this might of been rattelinf around, anyway cleaned up both surfaces and made a new gasket but I held the reed valves up to the sun and mainly no light except maybe one of them but I really pushed down and gave them a good bill of pass really put them back together and I really thought the cap was the problem but it wouldn’t start for more then like 2 seconds, I’m gonna give it a good run today and see if maybe it just needed a bit of a warm up and I’ll try the paper trick you suggested and get back to you
 
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