Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Trim/tilt intermittently doesn't work

I didn't notice a clicking sound. There should be a click sound from the relays themselves? There could have been a quiet click that I wasn't listening for.
 
I don't remember if I checked the black wires while pushing the switches.
In regards to the relays clicking, I think the top that I pulled off to check the wires on the bottom is where that would happen.
http://www.marineengine.com/newpart...e+specific+parts+catalog+for+your+engine.</p>

Yikes at that url.

Can I check the connectivity while switching if the assembly is closed? It's all insulated.

I think my next step is to jumper directly to the tilt motor wires.
 
Last edited:
The plug with the wires should pull off, if you can pull them off just partly enough to get your probe in there to see if the any of the black wires are hot when the switch is activated and if you can't hear the click then you should be able to feel it by touch.
 
Ok, I'll give it a shot.

Any comment on the plastic wire couplers? Can I pull wires apart and put them back together or do I need to cut them apart?
 
I'm trying to do this in a way that we don't need to take anything apart. What I think is happening is that the ground wires aren't getting a proper ground so nothing will work. None of the black ground wires should show power, if they do that is an Indication that the wires at the starter bolt are not connected. By the way just so I know that we are on the same page connectivity means that you have a pipeline, voltage or power means that there is 12 volts in that pipe or wire.
 
My understanding of the test light is that it show continuity, whether that is positive power or negative ground. The black wire continuity I'm seeing should be ground, but I can fish out a multimeter if need be. The testing I did was directly to positive and negative posts on the battery.
 
Ok, different word but the same idea, that was what i was wanting to know. The test light will work just fine for this, the only thing that makes sense is a (probably) broken ground wire since nothing works at all and there is no voltage to either of the motor wires.
 
I tested the relays to see if they clicked when operating the switch. They both did, but the trim/tilt motor didn't respond. Then I opened the "UP" relay to jumper directly to the trim/tilt motor wire from the battery to see if that would work. To my delightful surprise, the motor raised as it is supposed to. I was very excited at this, so I opened the "DOWN" relay to jumper directly to it and it didn't work. I thought a little about it and put the "UP" relay back together and tried again. Now the motor went down as it is supposed to. I was very happy to learn that I didn't need to replace the trim/tilt motor, but I wasn't very happy that I would have to jumper directly to those wires to operate it. So I put everything back together and again to my surprise the trim/tilt motor is working perfectly normally (for now). I'm going to replace both relays now, thinking that they are dying a slow death.

Thanks Swagonmaster for all the help, let me know if I've come to the wrong conclusion.
 
You may be right but for both to fail at the same time really bothers me. Hook the relays back up and gently move the wires under them, I think that they will start and stop working but if not then a pair of relays and have the job done sounds mighty good too. Enjoy the water there is plenty of summer left!
 
I installed the new relays yesterday, and everything is working properly as far as I can tell. Fingers crossed that it stays that way. I had a short conversation with my uncle about it. He doesn't work on outboards, but he's an electrical engineer. He said that if I continued to have problems with the new relays that I should cut a bit off the wires that fees the socket and rewire it. He said there may be some corrosion at the connections. Do you agree with that thought should my issues reappear?
 
Yes with one suggestion, before putting the relays in see if you have a wire connector of the same size as the pins on the relays and test fit the connectors in the wire harness. It is usually heat that causes loose connections and if all of the connectors have a little drag going in and out (bend them slightly to tighten any that feel loose) it will reduce the chance of a problem out on the water.
 
Just tested the trim/tilt a minute ago, it didn't work. Do I just put a light coat of dielectric grease on the spade or in the socket or both?
 
If you can get to it put it in the socket, that's usually the easiest but before you do check the fit of the spades before making it messy.
 
The fit of the spades in the sockets are pretty tight. I put some dielectric grease in the sockets to no effect. I'm wondering if the connections inside the wiring harness are loose and if there's a way for me to open up the wiring harness and redo the connections. At a glance it doesn't seem like this is possible. I tried using a jumper wire to the trim wires this time, but it didn't work. Do you think it's possible I may need a new wiring harness?
 
Since I can't see what you've got it's hard to say but I still think that there is a (now more likely) broken wire. That can be very difficult to find sometimes since things work most of the time. The best way to try to find the problem is by either using an ohm meter to check for continuity or simply moving the wiring slightly as the switch is used and possibly again using a volt meter to see where voltage gets to or doesn't. Keep in mind how the relays are wired, both relays are connected to negative with no switch activated, when one way is selected that relay sends voltage to one side of the pump wiring, the other side already is grounded. If the other direction is selected the second relay will give power to the opposite wire and again the second wire is already grounded and the motor turns in the opposite direction. If nothing happens at all then either there is no voltage available to either side or no ground again at a place that supplies both relays.
 
I'm starting to wish I had taken that electricity class in high school. I'll get back down there with the multimeter sometime in the next few days.
 
I disconnected the green and blue wires that come straight from the trim motor. I set the multimeter to ohms and put one lead on each wire, but I got no reading. Does that mean there's a short in the motor itself?
 
Rather than using an ohm meter just use a set of jumper wires to go to those two wires, one hot and the other ground and then exchange the wires. One way will give you up and the other will gives you down. If that happens then the motor should be good and your problem is in the wiring somewhere. And again use a test light to see if the relays are doing that same thing when you use the switch.
 
I tested every pin on both sockets for the relays. They all get 12 volts either passively or with the control switch except for pin 30 which only works with the relay connected. There's no way I can think of to attach leads with the relays connected to the socket. I'll try jumping directly to the trim motor wires
 
I jumped directly from the battery posts to the trim motor cables and got nothing. Not from positive to blue negative to green or positive to green negative to blue.

I tested the jumper cables with the ohms setting and they both work. Looks like it's time for a new trim motor.
 
Just for grins, hook up the jumper wires again and tap gently on the side of the motor, if the brushes are badly worn it might jiggle them enough to contact for a minute and that would prove the diagnosis. Sometimes the brushes can be replaced and you would be back in business.
 
Thanks for that, I'll try it tomorrow. It would help a lot if I could get through the season and trailer it home before I had to remove the trim/tilt.
 
If that little trick works a starter and alternator shop might be able to supply a set of brushes, i have even taken a set that were too large and filed them down to make a set.
 
What would a ballpark quote be in your mind for getting a shop to replace the brushes in the trim/tilt motor? My assumption is that it wouldn't cost much more to just replace it.
 
That would be hard to say, I would think they would have to see the motor to tell you what would be fair. I've had starters rebuilt for $60 to $80 so it would only be expensive if it was hard to get to. Price the new motor and see if it even makes sense to try. The brushes might only cost you $20 or so, taking the motor off might be the hardest part and that should not be bad.
 
That sounds like a lot less than I feared. Could I use the engine without the trim/tilt pump on it? Would I have to make any modifications?
 
Back
Top