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BF20D electric starter intermittent

BarryK3

Contributing Member
Hi all,

I have a 2004 BF20D with remote control and electric starter. When I first turn the switch to start the motor turns maybe half of a revolution and then the starter stops. If I repeat this a few times the starter will eventually spin freely and then the motor starts and runs normally. Do you think this is an issue with the ignition switch, solenoid, starter, or something else?

Thanks!
Barry
 
You need to do some basic electrical diagnosis. Check your voltage on the starter positive stud and make sure you have battery voltage while cranking
If you do, then your starter probably needs a new brush kit ( I suspect this is the problem ),, however, if voltage is low, check for battery voltage on the battery cable on the solenoid, if low, check battery cable condition. It is not an ignition switch problem because you said it tries to turn the starter. Let me know how you go. It's well worth repairing these starter motors.
 
I'd start by assuring myself the battery connections are clean and snug. Then I'd be wondering about the battery itself. State of charge? Age?

THEN I'd start thinking starter.
 
I agree about the connections. Clean ALL battery cable end connections with a wire brush or even sandpaper. CLEAN AND SHINY.

This includes the end of the NEGATIVE cable that connects at the engine. It's the one connection that you will probably need to "dig" a little to access but it's as important as all the others. CLEAN AND SHINY!

Often, this COMMON CHORE will clear up a problem such as this and is the START POINT for any electrical troubleshooting along with a healthy, fully charged battery.

Marine electrical connections typically corrode much faster than than they will on cars. Did I mention CLEAN AND SHINY?

Good luck
 
I removed and charged the battery. Battery is a fairly new sealed lead acid, U1 size. I tested it with a battery load tester and it is in the low end of the green "OK" zone.

I found some corrosion on the positive lead at the starter. The battery cables were also a bit loose. I will clean all connections and report back.

Thanks!
Barry
 
So after cleaning the terminals I am still having the same problem. It is worse when the engine is hot.

I checked voltage drops and resistance today:

Battery: voltage across terminals drops from about 12.8 with key off to about 11.8 with starter engaged.

Battery + to starter solenoid battery + terminal: greater than 11 volts with key in start position. Resistance about 0.3 ohm.

Battery + to starter solenoid motor terminal: voltage in the 9 volt range with key in start position. Resistance across to large terminals on solenoid is about 35 ohms (key engaged).

The contacts on the solenoid are very clean.

I guess the solenoid needs to be replaced?

Did I miss anything?

Thanks,
Barry
 
Okay, so now check your voltage on the solenoid stud going to the starter, if it's the same as the bat pos stud then the problem is the starter, if the voltage drops drastically across the solenoid then solenoid is faulty.
 
So, after further investigation the big voltage drop was across the engine to battery negative cable, something like 5 volts with starter engaged. I replaced this cable and all is good now! The copper was completely green and brittle in this cable. Positive cable was good. I left it in place since it joins another cable at the starter solenoid and I did not want to splice it. I got the new battery cable online, cut to length with correct size terminals, 1/4' one side and 5/16" other end.

Thank you!
 
Good hunting!
Glad you found it.
Congrats!
Now, get back to enjoying the water instead of futzing with the boat:>)
 
This is the same motor that just started leaking ATF from the power trim...
It's like Whack A Mole.

Thank you for the help!
 
Bummer.
But 16 years takes a toll. I was rebuilding trims that were only 3 or 4 years old sometimes.
I now own a 2006 20 D and I know it won't be long until I am dealing with it too.

B.O.A.T....Break Out Another Thousand.

The beauty of these outboards though is that we can still get just about any repair part we need. It will not be that way when the "next generation" comes out.
 
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