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Bf225 oil pressure alert at 3500 rpm

Jtimberlake99

New member
Hello all. First time poster, experienced lurker. Can’t seem to find any history on this scenario. I bought this 2006 BF225 to replace my starboard 04 that blew its power head a few months ago. The swap was pretty straight forward, except I had to swap gear cases to make the new (to me) motor a 25” shaft length. Got it all hooked up, took out for sea trial, and will not exceed 3500 rpm. Motor goes into guardian mode and the green oil pressure light goes out. No other lights go on. Thermostats were replaced in November, and I’m kind of stumped. The Honda dealer I bought the motor from (cash pocket deal) says it’s likely the wiring harness, or something electrical because the oil pressure manual reading checks out at idle. I have given them my old harness from the 04 motor, hoping the swap cures the issue, but I’m not holding my breath. Has anyone had similar issues? What would be the next item to check after the harness? Thanks for any help!
 
What does the oil look like? I would also change the oil filter and cut open the old one to check for shavings. Of course could be electrical or oil pressure switch related but I don't think so.
 
What does the oil look like? I would also change the oil filter and cut open the old one to check for shavings. Of course could be electrical or oil pressure switch related but I don't think so.


oil is brand new, just filled after mounting to boat. I will open up the oil filter. Just seems odd that oil pressure drops at higher rpms, not lower.
 
Higher rpms usually means more vibration or at least different frequency vibration. This could be causing a connection in the oil pressure circuit to lose contact due to looseness. I would check the connections for the oil warning light, ecm and, possibly, engine power and ground.

It could be as simple as having someone operate the boat while someone else gently manipulates the connections while the fault is occurring. You can also use this simple method for troubleshooting bad spots in the wiring.

If you find a spot that causes the symptoms to change or clear up then there ya go!

Good luck.
 
I'm guessing the dealer is not giving any warranty. At the risk of possible engine damage I would run a mechanical oil pressure check to see exactly what's happening. The oil pressure switch is not accessible without removing a cylinder head. Bear in mind it could also be a high pressure alarm, either way, check it out, it may save you a lot of money.
 
I'm guessing the dealer is not giving any warranty. At the risk of possible engine damage I would run a mechanical oil pressure check to see exactly what's happening. The oil pressure switch is not accessible without removing a cylinder head. Bear in mind it could also be a high pressure alarm, either way, check it out, it may save you a lot of money.

correct, no warranty. It was taken off a boat that was repowered. I subsequently found out after paying cash, no receipt, that the dealer knew the motor was throwing oil pressure warnings. I factored some risk in due to the nature of the deal, but didn’t think a Honda dealer would sell something with known issues. Live and learn...

Anyway, I think I will try the mechanical oil pressure read on a sea trial. I know it holds pressure at idle, but need to see what happens at higher RPMs. I’m hoping that replacing the harness (ECM included) will jog a connection and fix the issue.
 
Mechanical oil pressure check first, I've seen people waste so much money throwing parts at a problem, harness and ECU is a very expensive let's see. The electrical connections on honda harnesses are very good, in 14 years of working on them I have yet to find an issue with them
 
OK on the connectors - but I've had to replace two - one for the T/T motor and one for the T/T onboard switch (actually the whole switch.) Also have had to clean several for corrosion. All of this was when I was running out to the Atlantic Gulf Stream often times in quite heavy seas and crossing the Hatteras Inlet bar each way.
 
Bill, I'm just saying it pays hands down to run simple checks before buying parts. If the fault were there from start up I would agree, wiring problem. The ECU compares values at different engine speeds and this is telling me at 3500rpm the oil pressure in insufficient.
 
Ian Roger that. I've never fooled with that particular connector, but assumed that it was not difficult to get to. Is that correct or not?
 
There's a separate little harness that runs down under the intake tracts, the plug for that is next to the port cam pulley.
 
There's a separate little harness that runs down under the intake tracts, the plug for that is next to the port cam pulley.

I attached a pic of instructions to attach a mechanical oil pressure reader. Would the head need to come off for this? Looks pretty simple.

Harness and ECU did not fix the situation. I had a spare from my previous motor sitting around so not out any money.

I will be doing the pressure test next, and will report back with findings. Thanks all for the help!
 

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Just make sure you check with engine at operating temp and running with alarm activated, it's no good just checking at idle and cold.
 
Just make sure you check with engine at operating temp and running with alarm activated, it's no good just checking at idle and cold.


Waiting for mechanical oil pressure kit to arrive. Couldn't sit still so I took of the low pressure fuel pump, and found that I could blow air through it, indicating a rupture in the seal? My oil has been smelling gassy, so I'm thinking this could possibly be the culprit for oil pressure and fuel in oil. I installed a fuel pump off another motor I have sitting around that seems to be in good condition. After hooking everything up, changing oil and filter, I tried cranking it up. I am getting up and down revving in neutral, 650 to 1400, back to 650, 1400 again.. repeat repeat... What did I do wrong here? I feel like I'm really close to having this solved.

Thanks,
Jay
 
Waiting for mechanical oil pressure kit to arrive. Couldn't sit still so I took of the low pressure fuel pump, and found that I could blow air through it, indicating a rupture in the seal? My oil has been smelling gassy, so I'm thinking this could possibly be the culprit for oil pressure and fuel in oil. I installed a fuel pump off another motor I have sitting around that seems to be in good condition. After hooking everything up, changing oil and filter, I tried cranking it up. I am getting up and down revving in neutral, 650 to 1400, back to 650, 1400 again.. repeat repeat... What did I do wrong here? I feel like I'm really close to having this solved.

Thanks,
Jay

Disregard...

I had the lines mixed up on the low pressure fuel pump. Once I had switched back, I guess the motor had to do something with all the extra fuel... Hope I didn't damage the pump.

So I took it out and still have the alarm at 3500 RPM. Pee stream is now significantly reduced. Maybe separate issue with impeller? Might as well do the whole kit I guess...

I'm just really surprised that I found the fuel pump defective, replaced and still have the issue. What are the odds that the fuel pump was als bad in addition to whatever is messing up oil pressure.
 
Can't think of much else until you get the oil gauge. Hope it's not the pressure switch.


Got the mechanical oil pressure, put it in and tested. Getting 6 psi at idle. When the alarm goes off at 3500 I am getting barely 15 psi, and it never goes higher. Think it’s safe to say it’s an oil pressure issue. Now I am wondering if I broke my new fuel pump reversing the fuel lines by accident. I feel so dumb... I would be relieved though if all I need is a new fuel pump. Going to take it out and bench test to see. Will report back shortly, any guidance is appreciated.

thanks!
 
These motors should run at around 80psi hot at 2000 rpm and above, I hate to say this but I think you have a serious mechanical issue, typically, thrust bearing failure comes to mind. This Is not simply an oil dilution issue.
 
These motors should run at around 80psi hot at 2000 rpm and above, I hate to say this but I think you have a serious mechanical issue, typically, thrust bearing failure comes to mind. This Is not simply an oil dilution issue.


Honda dealer ruled out thrust bearing this week. Unless they are lying to me...

Learned today from the dealer I bought the motor that the heads were honed by previous issue to resolve this issue. Did not solve, so he repowered. Could it be head related?
 
Honda dealer ruled out thrust bearing this week. Unless they are lying to me...

Learned today from the dealer I bought the motor that the heads were honed by previous issue to resolve this issue. Did not solve, so he repowered. Could it be head related?


update: gauge was sticking. Here are the numbers:

18psi at idle
55psi (in neutral) at 2000
30psi at 2k in under load
38k at 3500 when fault happens.

so not much better. Not sure how much I trust the gauge.
 
I doubt the gauge and the oil pressure alert are wrong. The only issue you could have with the heads is a badly damaged camshaft bearing surface. I think this motor needs to be torn down and inspected or ask the dealer for your money back, they clearly sold you a motor knowing there was a problem.That to me is blatant dishonesty.
 
I doubt the gauge and the oil pressure alert are wrong. The only issue you could have with the heads is a badly damaged camshaft bearing surface. I think this motor needs to be torn down and inspected or ask the dealer for your money back, they clearly sold you a motor knowing there was a problem.That to me is blatant dishonesty.


I am not happy about the shadiness either. Shame on me for entering a cash deal- gave a Honda Dealer more credit than I should have.

Ian, just curious where you think I should go next with this motor. I don't anticipate having any recourse with the dealer. Am I looking at a short block rebuild? How would I arrive at a diagnosis at this point? I can't afford a new motor right now, so I am trying to find an alternate solution. Thank you very much for all the help to this point.

Thanks,
Jay
 
A dirty / clogged oil filter will also cause a drop in pressure , the bearings mentioned can also cause a drop in pressure and there are a few other things you need to check out for dirty filter screen more than 0.04 to 0.16 gap in the oil pump veins your ones will be rubber
 
Your issue sounds exactly like mine. Mechanic advised to remove the air cover and measure the end play on the crankshaft. Tolerance is .018, mine was .050. The wear on the cam creates a void and the oil pressure drops, which in turn causes the alarm and safe mode. Good luck. My motor, that I just purchased, is listed in the serviceable serial numbers, so I'm crossing my fingers.

Honda Marine has recently issued a Service Bulletin addressing the issues with thrust washer and/or main bearing failures in a limited number of Honda Marine BF200/225/250 engines.

A typical symptom is low oil pressure alert, the engine goes into protection mode, and the speed is limited to 1,800 rpm. In some cases, the upper thrust washer may become pinched, which may result in excessive heat and then failure of the washer and/or #3 main bearing.

Honda Marine has replacement short blocks that include improved thrust washers and a crankshaft support spring assembly. Honda is extending the warranty period for a total of 7 years or 2,500 hours on affected BF200/225/250 models for thrust washer failure. The extended warranty is limited to the failure of the thrust washer and/or #3 bearing ONLY.

Affected units are listed below:

BF200A
BAEJ-1600102 through BAEJ-1800315
BAFJ-1600013 through BAFJ-1800038

BF225A
BAGJ-1600528 through BAGJ-1800666
BAHJ-1600176 through BAHJ-1800226

BF250A
BBJJ-1000001 through BBJJ-1003028
BBJJ-8000001 through BBJJ-8000746

To qualify for this repair:
a. Unit must be in the serial number range
b. Unit must have less than 2,500 total hours
c. A number of Oil Alerts have occurred.
d. Honda Marine dealer must extract engine data using the special "Dr. H Diagnostic Kit" (Honda Special Tool)
e. Dealer must measure the crankshaft endplay to determine the condition of the thrust washer(s)
 
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