Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1995 Evinrude Vindicator sometimes stall when throttling up

D

Dam13n

Contributing Member
Hi guys, I have a 1995 Evinrude Vindicator 200 hp on a 201 stratos pro xl. I've had this boat for all of 2 years and since I've had it, during take off the engine stalls sometimes and cut off. I found that if i give it two to three revs and throw it in gear it will go ahead on and take off. I do not lose power on top end and it seems to idle well. I've checked the primer bulb to see if it remains firm after sitting for a while and it does. I've tried pumping the primer bulb before taking off and I still have the same issue. About a year ago I changed the Power Pack on this engine. The carbs were supposedly cleaned before I purchased the boat. I've never changed the ignition coils. Could either of these things be the issue?
 
This reving it up and throwing it it gear may damage the clutch dog and gears.-----Changing out parts gets expensive.----Perhaps richen up the idle mixture on the carburetors.-------Post your compression test numbers.----Does spark jump a gap of 7/16" on all 6 leads , yes or no ?-----There have been issues with sealing rings ( 8 of them ) on the crankshaft.----Perhaps look into crankcase compression issues.----That is not easy to check out , but your local shop may help you there.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the quick response Racerone. I will check compression and see what the readings are. As for Spark Jump, I'm getting great spark from what I can tell. I used a spark tester on each cylinder with plugs out (except one that is being tested) and spark was present and jumping gap on all cylinders.
 
Take 6 toothpicks and jam into the intermediate jets and test... If planes out , clean and replace side cover gaskets on carbs and throttle bodies. I see techs clean carbs but not bodies as that is usually the problem.
 
Seems to be a big problem with the vindicator, intruder basically all fast strike. U can read all day long about this issue with these motors on all kinds of forums. Alot of the older post claim it's what they named ( heat soak) after they rebuilt carbs , and replaced throttle plate gaskets.
Alot of them blame this issue on not enought space around engine after u shut down to fish. Temp. around motor climbs and basically boil fuel, they've drilled hole on inside of cowling , removed insulation inside of cowling , and as faztbullet said the 6 toothpick trick, which would mean it getting air somewhere else. I have a retired buddy with a sprint boat 150 intruder 1996 had since new carbs. never rebuilt. I'm going to go through carbs. , and vst. Now he has the newer carbs. That u can't use the toothpicks in, but does have the idle air Allen screw. Now I did turn his in and seated then backed out 4 turns, if we run 1 mile, no problem on restart, now if we run 6 miles and set 1hr. try and restart same issue u are having. Now if I crank and pull up high idle lever half way for about10-15 seconds when idle comes up close lever. Motor will take off.
So I'll be pulling all and looking at.
 
[h=2]
icon1.png
Re: 1995 Evinrude Vindicator sometimes stall when throttling up[/h]
Take 6 toothpicks and jam into the intermediate jets and test... If planes out , clean and replace side cover gaskets on carbs and throttle bodies. I see techs clean carbs but not bodies as that is usually the problem.

Fazbullet: Can you let me know what the intermediate jests are? or where to find the intermediate jets in the carbs? and picture or reference you can provide?​
 
Also, Is it best to get the Carb Kit with or without the Float? How should the float be set when replaced with new ones. I hear two different way. One is level with the carb housing and the other way is on a slight angle of the carb housing? Then too I read a thread that says the factory jets in the vindicator 200 are a bit small for the engine and to perhaps upgrade them to the jets found in the 225hp carbs. Is this true?
 
Been busy over several weeks and have not been able to do anything to the boat. Back at it now and to update everyone, I have ordered 6 CDI Coil Igntions for replacement of the ones currently on the engine. During the spark test i noticed that one of the cylinders wasn't getting a very bright spark like the others. Just for PMs I am going to replace them all. If this doesn't clear up the stall at take off what else could be causing this issue?

Compression Results are 128 128 130 128 127 130. Compression seems to be OK.
 
UPDATE:
The CDi ignition has been installed. Changed all 6 out. So far, New powerpack, new cdi, new plug cables, new plugs. Cab kits have been ordered. Will test to see if stall is cleared up since the coils were installed. If Not, I will proceed to clean/rebuild all the carbs.
 
Last edited:
When rebuilding the carburetors, I noticed not all the carbs had the orifice/jet in the bowl behind the drain plug. Is this Ok? The carbs seemed to work fine without them. Should all carbs have this orifice/jet?
 
Last edited:
Dam13n said:
When rebuilding the carburetors, I noticed not all the carbs had the orifice/jet in the bowl behind the drain plug. Is this Ok? The carbs seemed to work fine without them. Should all carbs have this orifice/jet?
Click to expand...

Any Ideas on this anyone?
 
Looked back the high speed orifices and the one i saw was not seated properly. It was basically sitting in the port. Could this have been my Influencing my throttling issue? Anyway, i took them all out to be sure they weren’t clogged and seated them. They all had 65D stamped on them. I’m guessing that’s the diameter of the orifice .065.
 
OK, This is an update to what has been done.
I rebuilt the Carbs and put all new coil packs, wires, and plugs on the motor. Took the boat to the lake and she performed flawlessly. So the Throttling/Bogging issue has been resolved!

Then she died on the lake and wasn't getting fire at all. Trolled for about an hour back to the dock and got her back home and began trouble shooting the no fire condition. Started by checking battery ends and cranking amps. All was good on that end. Then check for spark with kill switch wire (yellow/black) disconnected, still no spark. All ignition coils checked out good with digital meter. Resistance checked out good with all wires. Checked grounds on the new powerpack to be sure they were still tightly secured to ground. Looked at Stator and saw the black sticky substance (not a good sign). I checked both sides of the stator outputs and they were reading below spec. I was getting 837ohms on one side and 828ohms on the other side. Spec calls for 900ohms -1000ohms. So I figured this was bad. Have it on order, will replace and let everyone know the results.
 
Last edited:
Ok somebody, anybody! HELP!! LOL. So I start looking into why would stators all of a sudden go bad and the first thing mentioned is the rectifier/regulator. So i did the recommended ohm checks. Below are the results:

Digital Meter Black lead to Red wire, Red Lead to Yellow/gray wire: .254ohm
Digital Meter Black lead to Red wire, Red Lead to Yellow wire: .000ohm ??? Is this bad?

Digital Meter Red lead to Red wire, Black Lead to Yellow/gray wire: Nothing
Digital Meter Red lead to Red wire, Black Lead to Yellow wire: Nothing

Digital Meter Black Lead to Rectifier Ground, Red Lead to Yellow: Nothing
Digital Meter Black Lead to Rectifier Ground, Red Lead to Yellow/Gray:Nothing

Digital Meter Red Lead to Rectifier Ground, Black Lead to Yellow: 10.16ohm
Digital Meter Red Lead to Rectifier Ground, Black Lead to Yellow/Gray: 19.11ohm

Do these readings look OK? Is my rectifier BAD?
 
Last edited:
OK, So I replaced the Stator and realized I now only have spark to the Port Side Bank. New Stator, New PowerPack, New Coil Ignitions, new Wires, new plugs. Disconnected the black/yellow wires from behind the key switch and no changes. Spark still only on Port Side. Only thing that isn't new is the Trigger and rectifier. The above post shows results from rectifier trouble shooting. Good or Bad? Anyone? I plan to swap the stator output wires to opposite banks to see if the spark follows. If it does, does this mean that a brand new stator is faulty? If it doesn't, does it point fingers at the Trigger?

I appreciate everyone for their assistance.
 
Found the problem. Well two problems. The pins in the connector from the stator were sunken and not making contact on the side that wasn’t firing. Pushed pins back in place then fire. The catch was i could only get fire with the black and yellow wires from the kill circuit. Pulled the electrical panel out to see behind key switch and kill switch. Noticed the kill switch eye loop was twisted enough to make contact with a red wire. Rotated the Eyelet over and tightens it down. Hooked up the yellow black wire back to the power pack and boom. Fire on all cylinders. It fired up like a champ. I do think i had a stator problem or was soon to have one. So new stator has put me at ease for a while. Thanks to all that assisted me.
 
Back
Top