How tight should the remote oil plate be tightened

Uhhg i had my motors rebuilt. I finally got the boat in, the motors broke in and they are running sweet. Except for the fact that i have oil coming out the bell housing. First thought was oil pan or rear main but i used a boroscope and could see the oil pooling on the remote plate. I remember having a tough time getting the gasket and plate in easily and i also remember tightening them down pretty hard. The motor with the plate on the outboard side has been a struggle to say the least so i want to hopefully get it right this time. Would it be the same as say the filter, just snug and then a little bit extra

I prefer to use a torque wrench to avoid too much/too little tension on the bolt(s).

which engine are you referring to?

Well there crusader 454's. Old school ones probably 83 vintage. Its the plate that bolts into where the filter normally screws in. It takes a square sided round gasket similar to the oil filter gasket. There is no chance of a torque wrench especially now. Just after installing this motor i am now unbolting it prying it over and have remove the outboard exhaust manifold to try and make room to get at it lol. Well im going to put it back together this time i put a little indian head around that gasket (o-ring) to help hold her in place idk. I just want to ride . I spent the whole winter thinking about this project, rebuilding the motors tearing the floor and old gas tank out. Shes all back together and looking and running baddass except for this oil leak. Im in the process of putting it back together now i will let you know hoe it goes. Hoping to nail it down this time

Wow! Your stuff is older than mine by a bit...

what you are calling a 'plate' is formally known as the 'adapter' and has the two 5/16" coarse thread bolts that prefer 20 Ft*lbs ...

the square cut o-ring can be held up pretty much any gasket adhesive...

good luck...

Pain in the ass

Exactly, the adapter and thank you for your help. It has been extremely difficult for me atleast with all i had to do to get at that out board adapter. I finally got it all back together and i ran it through enough to cycle the coolant back through and by using your advise just 20#s or so it looks like so far the problem is cured. It couldn't have happened to the the motor with it on the inboard side oh well hopefully its over with.
Yeah the motors are still almost a decade newer than the boat lol. I searched and searched and finally picked up this 75' CC tournament. Its in beautiful shape now with fresh crusaders and new fuel tank and i refinished all the wood im hoping to just start honing in on the details finally.
Thanks for help im not a mechanic by any means but im just dumb enough to take on projects like this especially knowing people that actually know what there doing are willing to help with videos and answering all sorts of crazy questions in places like here haha��

Jeff, is this the part that you have been asking about?



If so, note that there is NO by-pass valve within this adapter.

Unless your remote oil filter base offers a by-pass valve, you will want to change your filter more often than you would otherwise.


FYI, the remote hoses will be directional.
In other words, engine oil "out" must be directed the to the exterior of the filter media.


.

Thats it thanks

Make sure the seal that go on the bolts are also there or it will leak no matter how tight it is.

stach454 said:

Make sure the seal that goes onto the bolts are also there or it will leak no matter how tight it is.

Click to expand...

Good point!

You can pick up stat-O-seal washers or copper sealing washers at a good hydraulic shop or perhaps NAPA.