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Trim adjustment in trailer position

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skifreak11

New member
Hi I have an 05' Maxum 1800SR3 with the Mercury 4.3L and a Alpha 1 out drive. I bought an SE Sport fin stabilizer to help the boat plane out faster but with the out drive all the way up in the trailer position it will hit my swim platform. Is there a way to adjust the trailer position of the outdrive down a bit (not talking about the trim position, I know how to do that)?
 
bondo said:
Nope,.... Just don't run it up so high,.....
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Well that's the given..........I was hoping to find an actual fix and not just someone stating the obvious. I guess I'll just have to make a mark on the trim gage and be cautious when loading onto my trailer.
 
Install a transom trim switch. The price is a rip, around $75, but the install is very easy. There's even a YT video of it being done. One of the best modifications I've ever done. Don't know why I went years without one.
 
Mark S. said:
Install a transom trim switch. The price is a rip, around $75, but the install is very easy. There's even a YT video of it being done. One of the best modifications I've ever done. Don't know why I went years without one.
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It has a 2 stage trim switch already (raises to the trim limit then press harder for trailering position) I mentioned that in my original post 🤙
 
I think my only option with be to get shorter hydrologic rams but I don't feel like messing with it. Thank you guys for the the responses but I just installed it and made a mark on my trim gage. I'll just have to be careful with it.
 
skifreak11 said:
I think my only option with be to get shorter hydrologic rams but I don't feel like messing with it. Thank you guys for the the responses but I just installed it and made a mark on my trim gage. I'll just have to be careful with it.
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To do what you want, you will have to take the rams apart and install a stop spacer.

I agree on the Dolphin being useless. If you think it will help your boat plane at a lower rpm.... Running at a lower rpm on plane damages your engine.
 
Chris, can you elaborate on your statement "Running at a lower rpm on plane damages your engine."? I always thought "just on plane" is generally into the most efficient range of operation. This is not to argue. Just seeking input. I trust your knowledge.
 
There is no efficient range of operation. Load, and fuel consumption, increase constantly as your speed increases until it hits a wall where the engine can no longer overpower the forces working against it.
 
Mark S. said:
Chris, can you elaborate on your statement "Running at a lower rpm on plane damages your engine."? I always thought "just on plane" is generally into the most efficient range of operation. This is not to argue. Just seeking input. I trust your knowledge.
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Your engine is designed to run in the 3300 to 3500 rpm range, that is the range where the engine load is optimal(the engine comes loose). If you had a pyrometer on your exhaust you would see the exhaust gas temps come down in this range... Lugging your engine at a lower RPM increases the EGT's.

If you need a Dolphin on an 18 foot boat with a 4.3, you have performance problems.
 
Now I’m pretty much a rookie at working on I/O set ups, but I’m kind of a common sense kind of guy.

from everything I’ve studied so far and researched, I think it may be wise to see if you have the right prop on that thing. That would definitely effect your rpms and performance getting out of the hole.
 
kirkll said:
Now I’m pretty much a rookie at working on I/O set ups, but I’m kind of a common sense kind of guy.

from everything I’ve studied so far and researched, I think it may be wise to see if you have the right prop on that thing. That would definitely effect your rpms and performance getting out of the hole.
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So after installing the stabilizer fin it does plane out way better and preforms a heck of a lot better in choppy water. I was wondering about the prop issue as well. It came stock with a stainless steel 5 blade prop that is more for torque. I was wondering if I should swap it for a 3 blade with having the stabilizer on there now.
 
In this day and age of instant educational resources of the internet , it’s amazing how much info on a subject you can learn in short order. It becomes an issue of sifting through the philosophy vs facts and opinions, and coming up with a solution using a bit of common sense. Sometimes a bit of trial and error.

My 19’ Bluewater Cuddy has a 4.3 with a 2 barrel carb that runs like a top. But I’m still learning how to run it. Being my first inboard motor boat it can be a bit intimidating at times. The trim switches seem to be working ok, but the trim gage is dead. So bringing my boat out of the hole is kind of a feel thing right now. I lower the out drive as far as she goes, give her hell, and she comes up on plane fairly quick with one or two people in the boat, and trim it up or down a fuzz watching the rpm gage.

But yesterday we loaded up a bunch of gear, two dogs, and had 4 people on board, and I was disappointed at the difference coming up on plane. It took way too long IMO. I was questioning if it was operator error, trim switch issues, , wrong prop, or just adding another 400 -500 pounds should make that much difference?

my set up has a 3 blade aluminum prop. Looks to be a forged prop, not the lower budget welded blade version. It’s got a few dings in it too, but looks to be in good shape. My problem is I have no idea if it’s the stock prop, or not. Once it’s up on plane, it scoots along about 35-36 mph at 4000 rpms and I don’t push it much past that much. No need....

after my research on props, I believe the 3 blade aluminum has the best efficiency. But I have no idea what pitch it is, or whether it’s the right one or not. This whole boat owner thing has a hell of a learning curve. Kirk
 
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