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Solenoid tests OK but will not energize starter

PhilSch

Regular Contributor
1989 Johnson 110 Crossfire. Hooked up a bump starter switch to check spark, timing etc. and no response. I tested the solenoid per the OMC manual and it passed the two tests. Both tests are done with all wiring disconnected. First test is continuity between the two large terminals. It is supposed to have no continuity and it does not. Second test is apply 12V to the small post (the one the yellow wire connects to) and ground to the other small post. The solenoid should energize (loud click) and have continuity between the two large terminals. As mentioned, it passes that test. When I hook all the wires up and activate the bump starter there is 12.75V at the A terminal, 12.55V at the small post the yellow wire attaches to but no voltage passes to the larger B terminal attached to the starter. Can the solenoid be bad but still pass the two tests prescribed in the OMC manual?
 
I would like to confirm the solenoid is truly bad before buying a new one. I'm 95% sure I hooked up everything correctly but maybe I am overlooking something. Seems unlikely the solenoid went bad just sitting, it worked before I pulled the engine for rebuild. Is there anything else I can do to verify it's proper operation?
 
Energize the solenoid and then measure across the two big terminals with an ohmmeter and see what you get.
 
1989 Johnson 110 Crossfire. Hooked up a bump starter switch to check spark, timing etc. and no response. I tested the solenoid per the OMC manual and it passed the two tests. Both tests are done with all wiring disconnected. First test is continuity between the two large terminals. It is supposed to have no continuity and it does not. Second test is apply 12V to the small post (the one the yellow wire connects to) and ground to the other small post. The solenoid should energize (loud click) and have continuity between the two large terminals. As mentioned, it passes that test. When I hook all the wires up and activate the bump starter there is 12.75V at the A terminal, 12.55V at the small post the yellow wire attaches to but no voltage passes to the larger B terminal attached to the starter. Can the solenoid be bad but still pass the two tests prescribed in the OMC manual?

Your test (hooked up) clearly shows that one of the small posts is not grounded as it is supposed to be. Some motors ground it through a safety switch, some ground it directly. I don't know which way your motor does it, but it's one or the other
 
Your test (hooked up) clearly shows that one of the small posts is not grounded as it is supposed to be. Some motors ground it through a safety switch, some ground it directly. I don't know which way your motor does it, but it's one or the other

The wiring diagram shows a black wire grounding the solenoid coil directly.

( there is a neutral safety switch but is is between the keyswitch terminal "S" and the solenoid)


BTW when checking this sort of thing use a test lamp on a couple of leads rather that a digital volt meter. Digital meters take so little current that they will often give a normal reading through a bad connection. Guaranteed to make a fool of you sooner or later ... don't ask!
 
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Take it apart drill the 4 brass rivets out remove the spring from the plunger file +/- 2mm off the bottom of the plunger ,what happens over the years is the 2 12v terminals inside wear and when the plunger goes down it hits the bottom but the copper washer inside does not make contact with the 2 12v terminals when you finished replace the 4 rivets with 3mm bolts and nuts it will work and last along time and save you money.
 
The starters really suffered on these motors with broken piston rings.----Folks kept cranking and cranking hoping the motor would start.-------These starters are elegantly easy to take apart for inspection / ohm test on the armature and possibly new brushes.
 
Your test (hooked up) clearly shows that one of the small posts is not grounded as it is supposed to be. Some motors ground it through a safety switch, some ground it directly. I don't know which way your motor does it, but it's one or the other

Re-reading your description of your test results, I think I mis-understood what you were saying. So.....here's what you should get: With solenoid energized you should be seeing 12V on one small terminal and 0V on the other small (grounded) small terminal and the solenoid should click. When all this happens, you should be seeing 12V on both large posts and starter should run.
 
Energize the solenoid and then measure across the two big terminals with an ohmmeter and see what you get.
I did that (2nd test of solenoid it OMC manual). I did not write down the actual resistance number but it was very low. Definitely good continuity.
 
fdgator,

At first I ignored your post because I had attached two black wires to the small ground post so thought that could not be the problem. I thought I would take the solenoid off my 60 horse Evinrude and try that and when removing it noticed there were also two black wires going to the ground post, one from the wiring harness and a dedicated ground wire to the block. My 110 horse has two black wires coming from the harness but not dedicated ground to block. I tried attaching a jumper from the block to the ground post and it worked!

What is very puzzling is I have all the wiring attached the same as before I tore the motor down (took plenty of photos and labled everything well) and it worked before but not after without adding the dedicated jumper ground. I know those two black wires were attached to that post before and I wonder why they are not functioning as effective grounds.
 
Take it apart drill the 4 brass rivets out remove the spring from the plunger file +/- 2mm off the bottom of the plunger ,what happens over the years is the 2 12v terminals inside wear and when the plunger goes down it hits the bottom but the copper washer inside does not make contact with the 2 12v terminals when you finished replace the 4 rivets with 3mm bolts and nuts it will work and last along time and save you money.

Tegweni,

Thanks for the suggestion; that sounds like a good solution born from necessity. Are you located in a part of the world where parts are hard to get? I was thinking about ordering one on Amazon for a whopping $14 but did not want to wait a week to get it. If I really thought the solenoid was bad I would have done what you suggested just to avoid the wait. I'll try to remember that trick, someday I may want to use it!
 
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