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1969 85 hp Johnson no spark

B

Bigjackmotors

New member
Hello all,
I am brand new to boating, but have an extensive automotive background. Not however when it comes to 2-stroke engines and components. I have no spark on my engine. It has been sitting a long time but is very clean. I pulled the flywheel and filed/set the points, but still no spark. What are some common issues with these? I see that the “power pack” is a commonly replaced item. How does one test this as good/bad?

Any help or pointers anyone could give is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Brad
 
The "power pack" is not a power pack. It is called an "amplifier". Yes they are common problems, mostly due to the owner's messing with them or dirty/corroded battery terminals. OK, that out of the way, remove and clean the battery terminals and reinstall tightly.

1. Turn key on. Check for 12V at the amplifier input (purple wire). If present, turn key off and go to next step
2. Disconnect the coil primary wire. Unbolt the coil and rotate it to unscrew the spark wire from the distributor cap. Remount the coil and reconnect the primary wire and rig up a spark gap off the end of the spark wire.
3. Turn key on. Now brush the coil primary wire lightly across a bare grounded surface. This simulates the points' opening and closing. You should see a flurry of sparks from your rigged gap. If it does, the amplifier and coil are working up to that point.
4. If you do get sparks, proceed with the dist cap & rotor and plug wires. You know how to do that. Double check the points. They should be set at 0.009-0.010 Check the reverse cut-out ring. Lubricate very sparingly with a bit of EP grease.

I only took the time to write all this because you say you have extensive experience and should be able to figure it out..
 
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Wow......I'm learning too, great testing proceedure, Gator. Note: Be sure to check continuity so there is no resistance across the points when they are closed.
 
Yes that's the way to do it. Often times I dismantle the points and use a fine carborundum stone with light oil, then clean with acetone or even alcohol. Then lube the pivot pin and bushing. This way you can get nice finish....so critical. Pappy is good too. Final result is a perfectly square contact area, or perhaps just a slight center crown. Don't take any more material off than necessary. The premium conductive material is not very thick.
 
These are such great tips! My next days off I will be able to dig into it. Thank you all for the pointers! I’ll post how it goes when I can check it out.
 
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