Old 1968 evinrude sportwin 9.5 not turning up rpms PLEASE HELP

Okay, I've been having this old motor for around 4 years, and honestly had nothing but hell with it since buying it. (Picked up for real cheap only reason I did) I've learned the hard way about what to, and what not to do when working on and replacing, changing parts, and making adjustments on this motor. My most recent and first issue I have not been able to troubleshoot is the motor not turning up rpms. I swear it's like my 9.5 hp downgraded to a 3hp. And cannot for the likes of me figure out why. I just recently replaced the entire powerhead, bc I stupidly broke a headbolt off in the block and failed to tap it out. I had decided to check be sure a leaking head gasket wasn't my issue. So replaced entire powerhead. Cleaned carburetor thoroughly and rebuilt using kit.. after soaking in chem-dip for 24 hours. Inspected armature plate, went over coils, points, condensers, shorting wires, everything checked out. Reassembled the entire motor, mounted in a drum. Hooked up fuel lines, cranked her up. Fires on first to second pull at most. Idles decently. Put in gear, and attempt to speed the throttle, hardly no response. Motor hiccups often, and will not turn up hardly 1/4 of what it had before problem began. Why does my motor have no power????

[video]https://photos.app.goo.gl/fvVibUcJiR5kccBR9[/video]

That is video of motor running sluggish before replacing powerhead and rebuilding carb and all. This is Great compared to how badly motor is running now. Cylinders are getting fuel, plugs are getting plenty fire, please could someone point out what I am missing!! I can make video of current running condition in an hour or so

In that video you have ignition problems.-----If you used that ignition system on the replacement motor you need to check the coils and replace the plug wires.

Running the motor in Darkness may help to reveal any secondary spark leakage. Did you lubricate the rubbing blocks on the points? Without lubrication, the point gap eventually closes. Will it run on a single cylinder? If so, which is the stronger cylinder? After the motor has been running, use your hand to determine if the temperature of both cylinders is roughly the same.

For sure,, that thing has an ignition problem. Have you tried the obvious? (spark plugs). Or arcing out between the boot and spark plug base?

It's getting good fire on both plugs. No arcing at the boot. As far as I can see without pulling flywheel the wires are not damaged. Thing is, when I swapped powerheads, I checked the armature plate thoroughly, and could not see any signs of arcing out or bad connections. Set points at .020 as called for. Cleaned the entire armature plate with acetone then reinstalled. Thing that gets me is the video was shot before I swapped powerheads. Now after and after inspection of armature plate, coils, points set the works, I am still having the same issue if not running worse

This is it running an hour or so ago. Crazy how it cranks just about first pull 90% of the time. Fire on both plugs, plenty gas flowing thru carburetor, still plugs stay heavily saturated with gas/oil. I'm going to go ahead and pull flywheel maybe pull coils, check the boots and wire connections. Maybe change put the wires. Is it possible a condenser is failing?

That last video is running on one cylinder!!! Have you tried NEW plugs?

That's brand new plugs it's running on. First time running it with those plugs

Put timing lite to it and find out which cylinder ain't working while running.

Easier than that, remove and ground one plug wire and see how it runs. Then do the same with the other one. Chances are it won't make any difference with one removed but won't run at all with the other one grounded. That s the good one.

Anything that's not been replaced is 52 years old on that old motor. Why not replace all the electrical while your in there and be done with it? It's not all that expensive. I'm pretty sure those coils, condensers, plug wires and points won't last another 52 years but new ones might come close.

I have a 3hp 1966 Johnson that I soaked the carb in Chem-Dip and sprayed it out with a can of carb cleaner and also blew it out with compressed air and then put a new carb kit in. I put it back on the motor and it still ran like crap. Took it back apart and put the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner and then sprayed it out with carb cleaner again and then blew it out with air again. I reassembled it and put it back on and gave it a try and it's worked perfect since.

One other thing if you didn't removed the expansion plug on top of the carb before you cleaned your carb that might be the problem. I've done that before and found there was some trash behind the plug that was causing the problem. New replacement expansion plugs are included in the carb kits. The best way I've found to remove the plug is to use a small center punch and tap a deep dent in the center of the plug with a hammer and then pry it out with the point of the center punch. Just be careful and if you do drive the punch through the plug that you don't drive it in so far that you damage something.

I made a tool to replace the expansion plug. I had a round chisel that was a little smaller in diameter than the plug so I ground the end of it flat and round with my bench grinder. That worked to expand the plug in the carb by tapping on it with a hammer very carefully until it flattened out the concave shape of the plug which expands it in place. I put a little sealer on mine to make sure there were no leaks around the edges of the plug.

Spark plug wire may be pin-holed (arcing through) where it is clamped to the bottom of the armature plate. Seen that many ​times.