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New boater having issue with engine idling

R

RyanTexas

New member
Hello,

I just bought a boat and it came with Volvo Penta 3.0 GLP-E engine. I don't know how to describe the problem, so I recorded a clip when the engine is running.

If I set the drive stick at neutral, it won't be able to run, I had to set it forward and keep the rpm at 2000. When I tried to reduce the rpm, you can see the engine is going to stop. Please help.

https://youtu.be/3Mx6IlKS9P0


Thank you,

RyanTexas
 
Welcome Ryan,
lots of variables to your problem, some more info would better help you.
year of the boat?
how long did it sit before you got to it? did you do anything to it before you started it, tune up change filters, new fuel?
mechanical or electric fuel pump?
from your video it seems like you are loosing fuel pressure, is there a way for you to check that?
 
ramon gonzalez said:
Welcome Ryan,
lots of variables to your problem, some more info would better help you.
year of the boat?
how long did it sit before you got to it? did you do anything to it before you started it, tune up change filters, new fuel?
mechanical or electric fuel pump?
from your video it seems like you are loosing fuel pressure, is there a way for you to check that?
Click to expand...

Hi,

My boat is 2007 Chaparral 180 SSI. It sat there for at least 2 years, according to the previous owner.

I am planning to give it new fuel this weekend. However, I want to give it a shot after I put half a Lucas Fuel Treatment before I start it today. The clip shows it's running on old fuel and the gas treatment.

I want to give it a tune up too. Should I get a marine mechanic or DIY? I am very handy and I have lots of tools in the garage. I might need guidance on the things needed to be done.

About the fuel pump, I don't know whether it's electric or mechanic. How can I tell?

Thanks
 
[FONT=&quot]Hi,
I read somewhere that it's best to run an engine hard during the break in period. The reasoning is that this generates a lot of pressure to force the piston rings against the cylinder walls so they wear evenly and create a good seal. I don't know how true this is but it kinda makes sense, and this would also mean idling your engine should be avoided during break in.[/FONT]
 
Ryan,
below are some examples of a mechanical fuel pump and an electric fuel pump.
the mechanical pump is attached to the engine block, the electric would be mounted somewhere in the bilge or near the engine. follow the fuel lines from the tank and you should be able to see which one you have.
if your boat has been sitting that long, i would recommend new fuel, complete tune up, including oil and filter, and if you feel confident enough to rebuild the carburetor i would do that as well. it does not take much to work on these engines very similar to an automobile engine, also recommend not to use auto parts make sure you use marine application parts. you can find lots of great info on this forum,


carter_001LG.jpg41MbhOSrXnL.jpg
 
Hi Ramon,

I ordered all parts for a complete tune up yesterday:
Impeller kit 1
Fuel filter 1
Oil filter 1
Thermostat 1
O-ring 1
Spark plug kit 1
Distributor cap 1
Rotor 1
Ignition cable kit 1
Valve 1
Impeller 1
Synthetic Oil 10W-40 1

What is the correct way to remove old fuel from the tank? What I have in mind is:
- remove the connector of fuel line to gas tank
- raise the front of trailer high up, may be 3 cinder blocks
- use liquid transfer pump, and pump the old gas into gas storage container
- I will insert the scope into the tank to make sure all liquid is removed, then leave it open for evaporation.

If you have any suggestion, please share, I'm all new to this and I want to make this baby awesome.

Ryan.
 
......
shamsmehra90 said:
Hi,
I read somewhere that it's best to run an engine hard during the break in period.
Yes, if you want to shorten it's over-all life span! Otherwise, follow the OEM break-in procedure.

The reasoning is that this generates a lot of pressure to force the piston rings against the cylinder walls so they wear evenly and create a good seal.
That is true, and will be accomplished by using the OEM break-in procedure.

I don't know how true this is but it kinda makes sense, and this would also mean idling your engine should be avoided during break in.
That pertains to flat tappet camshaft/cam follower run-in, and is typically for a 20 minute period.

But I digress..... this is a 22007 boat, so this engine should have been fully broken in years ago.
Click to expand...

Ryan, look here at your 3.0 GLP-E engine components;

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-cat-7745970.aspx

The 3.0 GLP-E is carbureted with a 2 barrel Holley.
The fuel pump is mechanical and is engine mounted.
The ignition system is EST. Not much to do here except replace cap, rotor and plug wires.
The seawater pump is the crankshaft style. Mark the suction and supply hoses so that you do not get them mixed up when re-connecting them.

RyanTexas said:
What is the correct way to remove old fuel from the tank?

Remove the Anti-Siphon valve and temporarily connect a standard barbed fitting in it's place.
Run a hose from the barbed fitting over-board to a container on the ground.
Yes, raise the bow up some.
Start a siphon and remove the old fuel.
No need to open the tank up for evaporation.
Re-install Anti-Siphon valve (or replace with new).
Add 5 gallons of fresh Non-Ethanol gasoline.
Fill new filter cartridge with fresh fuel to approx 80% and install. (oil the sealing gasket surface)
Using some type of Non-Electrical pump, pull fuel through the system/filter up to the carburetor.
Reconnect fuel lines.

NOTE: be very careful if you decide to use an electric transfer pump, and if so, have the pump outside of the boat.
Do not power the electric transfer pump with alligator clips, unless the battery being used is also outside of the boat.
Click to expand...



.
 
By how it’s running in the vid it appears that the idle system in the carb is clogged because it will run above idle but not at idle speed (600 or so rpm). So I think while you can do a tune up I think you are going to wind up taking apart the carb, cleaning it out and rebuilding it.
 
Thank you, Rick, for the suggestions and the URL. I have been looking for those images and couldn't find anywhere for "free"... I sure will post more updates at the end of the week.

Ryan
 
Hi Louc,

louc said:
By how it’s running in the vid it appears that the idle system in the carb is clogged because it will run above idle but not at idle speed (600 or so rpm). So I think while you can do a tune up I think you are going to wind up taking apart the carb, cleaning it out and rebuilding it.
Click to expand...

From your suggestion, I would love to take this step on next. Do you happen to have any reference on carb rebuild instruction? I watched a couple vids from Youtube, but a specific for this engine would be an ideal one.

Thanks

Ryan
 
For sure install a water separating fuel filter. The normal OEM ones are fine for normal conditions and if you have trouble with water in the fuel you can use the best which is the Racor true water separating filter. I have the normal one used by OMC with either OEM Evinrude filters or Sierra aftermarket. Each year when I change the filter I dump out the contents out in a Mason jar and check for water/sediment. It’s always so clean that I wind up dumping that gas in the gas can for my lawn mower.
as far as carb rebuilds you probably have a Holley 2 bbl, go on to www.holley.com to identify which carb it is; you can find rebuild kits there and is also rebuild info, or search for Holley marine 2 barrel rebuild on you tube. They are pretty simple.
 
Thanks Louc for the guidance, I will definitely look into the water separation filter and carb rebuild kit. I watched a video on youtube and it doesn't seem that hard todo.

I have drained all old fuel but having a hard time looking for marine gas,- no ethanol around where I live.

Thx
 
Don’t worry about that, all I can use is e10 (no regular gas can be sold here) and I have had minimal problems over the years and the gas comes out of the separator crystal clear.
 
Hi all,

I have the list number 75028-4 engraved on the carb. I gave it to Holley support person to help me selecting the part and this is what I got back:

"Call Daytona Parts. 386-427-7108. They deal with older holley carb parts and kits and will have what you need. Im unable to identify it"

He originally gave me the part number 703-30 based on my 3.0-GLP-E engine, that's all.

Can someone help?

Thank you very much,

Ryan
 
RyanTexas said:
Hi all,

I have the list number 75028-4 engraved on the carb. I gave it to Holley support person to help me selecting the part and this is what I got back:

"Call Daytona Parts. 386-427-7108. They deal with older holley carb parts and kits and will have what you need. Im unable to identify it"

He originally gave me the part number 703-30 based on my 3.0-GLP-E engine, that's all.

Can someone help?

Thank you very much,

Ryan
Click to expand...


I found it, 21533394, thanks all.

Ryan
 
I have a question:

I opened the impeller this afternoon, one of the fin broke off and I can't find it in the hose. Do I have to open up the whole route to find the broken piece?

Thank you,

Ryan.
 
Hi @Louc,

I put everything back, now it cranks but it doesn't start. I wonder when not running, is the flap right below the air intake close or open? It is now completely close as I put together.

Thanks

Ryan
 
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