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fuel pump not pumping

S

slow cruiser

Regular Contributor
Launched the boat, 2001 Tiara with 8.1 Crusaders, half way to my dock, about 100 yards, the port engine died. Would not restart. Checked the fuel line-no pressure. The fuse was separated. How do I check to verify it is the fuel pump and not a short to ground and if it is the high pressure pump?
 
you should be able to disconnect each pump and measure its resistance....they are both fed from the fuel pump relay.
 
Normally, no....however, if they get some age on them and the contacts start to erode, then I would say its possible the relay could contribute to popping a fuse....they are relatively cheap - if you opt to change one, I'd suggest changing them all....and there is nothing magical about the parts sold by crusader....
 
they are called oetiker clamps....you can buy a set of the pliers is you want to....

to remove, you can separate one of the lap joints; to install, you can use a set of bull nose nippers...
 
if you can get it in there, yes....been a while since I had an FCC apart....sorry, but the old memory ain't what it used to be...
 
Access for this is relatively easy, applying the oetiker would be a trick on this port engine. Even then I would have to find that clamp. Setting the position is moot as the way the FCC assembles it holds the pump in place the only issue would be if the clamp seals the fitting and corrosion over the long term.
 
a good all stainless clamp (AWAB) should be fine....the new clamps come in the hose kit, with the new o-ring....i think they have a few different kits...you'll want to address the filter while the canister if off.

On some installations, its easier to remove the entire FCC before disassembly...
 
I have it but its like a foreign language, I'm not an electrician. Just have to plod through it. No mechanics available here that can work on it.
 
the description of how things work is pretty decent.

Assuming you validated the 'short' theory? the good part is with the relay, its pretty easy to isolate the fuel pump wiring. If you unplug the fuel pumps, you can measure the positive side's resistance to the ground side. If needed, you can also remove the relay and measure things there as well...
 
Thanks for the suggestion. When I turn the engine 'on' ignition
'off' the fuse blows. Wouldn't this indicate a short between the battery feed and the fuse?
 
slow cruiser said:
Thanks for the suggestion. When I turn the engine 'on' ignition
'off' the fuse blows. Wouldn't this indicate a short between the battery feed and the fuse?
Click to expand...

No... fuses blow when there is a short or high current draw "downstream" from the fuse... not "upstream" ( between fuse and battery)
 
I got when the ignition key is turned to RUN, the fuel pump fuse blows....

that suggests the issue is downstream of the relay...so remove the relay and measure the resistance between the gray wire (pin #87) and ground. repeat that measurement with both fuel pumps unplugged.
 
the first will tell you what the resistance of the pumps (in parallel) is...the second will tell you what condition the harness is in, from the relay to the pumps.
 
I'll check it tomorrow. If the problem is in the harness how do I track it down, it snakes through the engine contained in that corrugated tubing. I did the first measurement today and got 1.5. I will repeat to reassure.
 
if your meter is accurate, the fuse should not be popping....

it would also be good to see if each fuel pump runs....you can use a fused jumper on the positive wire's connector.
 
sounds like the harness.

I think it would be prudent to test both pumps with the jumper...I suspect they are functional but its always prudent to verify something vs assuming....

for the harness, the split loom will usually 'peel' away once the wires are slipped thru the seam. look for deformities in the loom before you start as it can give clues to potential bad spots. some harnesses are taped their whole length, some every XX inches...

an alternative is to just run another positive wire from the relay down to the fuel pump connectors, and put it inside the loom or tie wrap it to the outside. I've done some where I just taped it to the original harness...its more a question of your desired end appearance and the effort you want to invest. the drawback is that you have extra connections where the new wire gets spliced to the original wire's 'ends'...
 
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