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1969 AQ130b/250 Tilt wiring diagram

mloew1

New member
Hello All,

Long time lurker first time poster. I'm usually ablet o find what I am looking for but can't on this one. Looking for some help.

I have a 1969 AQ130B/250 that is relatively close to original. I say original because there are a few updated parts here and there but generally, the engine and drive have been well maintained and in service continuously since new.

I'm digging in to a refit for the boat, but as the engine and drive still run well, it's mostly cosmetic.

I'm looking for the tilt wiring diagram. I'm having issues there. The relays are like original, but not the Original Parts from what I can tell.

I'm having 3 issues.
1. the fuse on the power supply line to the down side of the relay keeps blowing. Its a modern blade fuse which makes me thing it's not supposed to be there, but I have no diagram to confirm. I'm hoping someone has one available on .pdf? If there is a difference between European and NA wiring models, this boat was built in Norway. I'm thinking it is close to the 270, but want to be sure and havent seen any 250 specific posts on here about the same.

2. The Overtravel switch on top seems to be malfunctioning. I have continuity on both sides, regardless if the switch is depressed. I am looking for a like replacement, not off the Volvo parts website if possible.

3. The plastic case that the tilt pieces fit in in other diagrams is missing, not sure if it should be on this model or not so for the sake of trying to restore as many systems as possible to like original condition, just wondering if someone can verify.

Thanks in advance for the help,

Mark - From Canada
 
The 1969 mechanical Lift Out unit relay unit would look similar to this one.










The later and much better mechanical Lift Out unit relay unit would look like this.

images



If you still have the early 1969 version, I would suggest adapting the later relay to your unit.

Also, the upper micro switch and it's function is critical. If it is not working, you will risk damaging the cast iron clutch component upon retracting the vice rod.
The black plastic housing supports the micro switch.
Make sure that the plastic housing is good, and that it is secured to the upper aluminum housing via the two long screws/nuts.

Also, the Lift-Out unit itself should be supplied with both a main power source (positive) and it's own Negative.
The relay power supply from the helm switch is independent.
There will be a harness plug in the helm switch-to-relay circuit. Make sure that the pins in that connector are OK.
 
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Thanks, I thought I might hear from you..... Appreciate the knowledge you share with the group, certainly seems to be invaluable to a few in desperation.

I hear what you are saying about the updated system being more robust, but in the interest of keeping this as original as possible id liek to get the older model running until something catastrophic happens.

Would you know where I could Find that over travel Switch? I've looked for it in a few places with no luck on a reliable replacement or a new part to replace it.

As it stands I have rebuilt the mechanisms within the housing. they look to be in good working order with no obvious, pitting, caching or scratching. The clutch looks good in other words and I haven't bench tested its operation without the harness in place.

Maybe the Part Number for the over travel switch? I have tried a few micro switch retailers with little luck.

Thanks again,
Mark
 
Check the dimensions. The rating is ok, though not ideal.

Thanks, so if the dimensions look good, which they do, what would be the issue with the ratings? this looks to be an identical match to what I had in place, it may or may not have been the original part. I do not know.

Thanks fro the help,
Mark
 
This switch serves as a vice rod limit switch.
As the vice rod approaches the top of it's travel (i.e. fully retracted), this switch opens the Negative circuit to the electric motor.

Here is an OEM part being sold on e-Bay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-PENTA-850710-5-STERN-DRIVE-SWITCH-MARINE-BOAT-/232865347850

The originals were a Hartman F-49.

2Q==
2Q==



.

Thanks,

mine appears to be held in with a threaded tip. 3/8 fine thread. Safe to say it isn't original butt he upper housing has been modified to accept that as the only over-limit switch. I wouldn't immediately know how to adapt the housing to accept a non threaded switch.

Any thoughts?
 
Thanks, so if the dimensions look good, which they do, what would be the issue with the ratings? this looks to be an identical match to what I had in place, it may or may not have been the original part. I do not know.

Thanks fro the help,
Mark
The published ratings for the switch referenced only indicate the rating for an AC load. Ratings for mechanical switches for DC loads are usually lower.... and in this particular application, the switch interrupts a running DC motor which is just about the worse case kind of DC load ( a locked rotor DC motor load being one of the worse case applications).
 
The published ratings for the switch referenced only indicate the rating for an AC load. Ratings for mechanical switches for DC loads are usually lower.... and in this particular application, the switch interrupts a running DC motor which is just about the worse case kind of DC load ( a locked rotor DC motor load being one of the worse case applications).

That makes sense, From what I understand it should be 48 VDC.

Mark
 
If that switch is not intended for DC applications using it on a DC load like this will result in a shortened life. Given that this switch is an industrial grade switch typically rated for 100,000 + operations, a shortened life in your application should still result in several hundreds of operations. I don't know about your use, but I only operate my lift mechanism a couple of times a year.
 
Fair enough, for my purposes might be 10 times a year given the shallowness of the Lake I'm on. but it won't be trailer-ed more than once a year, so not a huge concern in that regard.

Understanding the vice-rod isn't as strong as some would like, I'm assuming it can still be used under idle speed maneuvering for docking without damaging it?
 
I only ever run it under power to get off of uncharted sandbars, i.e. dead slow (idle) reverse. Personally would not like to "bend" the universal joints in two axis, i.e by steering with it tipped up.

By design, that limit switch screws into the threaded top of the housing. The nut is there as a lock so you can "adjust" the actuation point so it shuts off the motor at the proper point, i.e. shuts it off before it comes up "hard" against the housing. When you unpower the motor, the motor will "overrun" a very slight amount, so you want it shut off just a tad early. There is an adjustment on the bottom end of the lift rod that impinges on the drive to "fine tune" the length of the rod.
 
I only ever run it under power to get off of uncharted sandbars, i.e. dead slow (idle) reverse. Personally would not like to "bend" the universal joints in two axis, i.e by steering with it tipped up.

By design, that limit switch screws into the threaded top of the housing. The nut is there as a lock so you can "adjust" the actuation point so it shuts off the motor at the proper point, i.e. shuts it off before it comes up "hard" against the housing. When you unpower the motor, the motor will "overrun" a very slight amount, so you want it shut off just a tad early. There is an adjustment on the bottom end of the lift rod that impinges on the drive to "fine tune" the length of the rod.


Thanks for the help.

I got it running over the weekend I will post again with a more complete note about the outcome.
 
Outcome post.

With the advice from above I was able to find a few parts and and rewire the tilt mechanism. I got it runnig perfectly over the weekend. I was astonished by how hard operating that system without the bot running would be on the batteries. Had to jump it from the truck to keep the tilt motor running through a few test cycles.

So Steps for conclusion,
1. Spent a lot of time looking through these forums as well as others to try and find an approratie wiring diagram and found alot that looked close, but non that were right until this one. (Posted in subsequent post because the file type was too large)


2. Ordered new limit Switch as it was malfunctioning. Ordered the one from Digikey noted above. Was a drop in replacement with no modifications necessary.
3 Ordered a new relay for the left hand side of the diagram, as the one I had wasn't quite the same as noted in the diagram. https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/RELAY-12V-40-30A/p/PIC925-35
4. Redid all the primary wiring within the tilt system up to the switch connectors. Replaced all the quick connects with heatshrink and **waterproof connectors. (as waterproof as they can be I guess.
5. Dropped everything in, replaced ground wires and power supply wires, with no fuse.
6. Fired it right up, worked perfectly in both directions with no issues.

Thanks for the help @sandkicker, @RicardoMarine
M
 
re: " I was astonished by how hard operating that system without the bot running would be on the batteries. Had to jump it from the truck to keep the tilt motor running through a few test cycles. "

You have battery issues.... My 280 goes up and down several times on battery, engine off all the time.
 
I agree with Bob.... your battery should be able to cycle the Lift Out unit motor many times.


By the way, the Hartman F-49 micro switch operates the five pin relay. The relay takes the full amperage load of the electric motor Negative.

Also, not all five pin relay housings are of the same dimensions. Some will not fit into the plastic housing.
 
I agree with Bob.... your battery should be able to cycle the Lift Out unit motor many times.


By the way, the Hartman F-49 micro switch operates the five pin relay. The relay takes the full amperage load of the electric motor Negative.

Also, not all five pin relay housings are of the same dimensions. Some will not fit into the plastic housing.

Good note about the size, I dont have the plastic housing as of yet but the 5 pin relays seems to be the same size as what came off of it.

And interesting about the battery, one of them is brand new. The other hadn't received charge since the fall when I last rant the engine, so I assumed that was the reason. I will check to see if the batteries are healthy.

Thanks,
Mark
 
Good note about the size, I dont have the plastic housing as of yet but the 5 pin relays seems to be the same size as what came off of it.

Mark, the original five pin relays (used by Volvo Penta) were by Bosch and had a stamped tin cover.
They were slightly smaller than most of the Bueller or other brand plastic clad five pin relays that we will see.

By the way, I may have an extra black plastic housing among my Lift Out unit parts. I'll look today.


.
 
Mark, the original five pin relays (used by Volvo Penta) were by Bosch and had a stamped tin cover.
They were slightly smaller than most of the Bueller or other brand plastic clad five pin relays that we will see.

By the way, I may have an extra black plastic housing among my Lift Out unit parts. I'll look today.


.

Thanks for the message, And thanks for all the help. Replacing the second battery, it had some voltage issues, and was pretty old.

Thanks
Mark
 
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