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1996 Evinrude 150 (Looper) - Dies on acceleration

T

tc80211

Member
Howdy folks,

It's been a while since my last post because my engine has been running great! That is until a few weeks backs it started doing some crazy dance at speed, losing power, then running fine and then barely letting me accelerate. Mind you this was after a full day of running fine. Then noticed it would barely accelerate and then finally would only idle. Before all this occured it's been about a year of great running. About a year ago I replaced the following:
- Regulator
- Power pack
- stator
- fuel lines from the water separator to motor
- ignition key unit

Since my trouble a few weeks ago, it feels like a fuel delivery issue, so i thought carbs. Rebuilt all 6 from the metal plate forward (in other words, did not take off the butterflies or the plate as to avoid having to re-sync). Then I went out all day yesterday, had full range of throttle and probably run for a good 5 hours. Came over this morning and hooked up the hose to fire up before hitting the ocean (habit by now) and would stall on any throttle up. Thought maybe i boogered something up with the carbs or the float, so went back into each and reset the float height correctly, some were a bit off. Took to the local lake and immediately having the same issue of weird hesitation all through the throttle range. It would get up to plane, run fine, then start acting up again without any additional throttle inputs.

Am at a bit of a loss on what to check next. In my driveway with the muffs on I noticed 2 things:
- If at the motor, I manually open the butterflies on all 6 carbs, revs go up, no hesitation
- If at the motor, I manually advance the timing, the motor dies

Thoughts? Anyone have something similar happen and find resolution? At this point i've essentially replaced all the electronics on the motor. Carbs have all been hit with rebuild kits. Maybe fuel itself is an issue? I noticed the water separator was a touch hazy.

oh, and starting the motor. Easy. Fires right up first turn of the key with minimal choke.
 
Checked the shift interrupt switch ?----Water in the fuel ?----Filters replaced ?----Optical sensor acting up ?
 
racerone said:
Checked the shift interrupt switch ?----Water in the fuel ?----Filters replaced ?----Optical sensor acting up ?
Click to expand...

The water separator looked milky now that i think about it... could just be the clear plastic is dirty or could mean water. Ordered a new filter and will go inspect the separator closer at lunch.
How do test the shift interrupt switch?
Not sure how to test if the optical sensor is working correctly. Visual inspection shows it free of grease and dirt.
 
got to test at lunch. after idling around and constant stalling on throttle up the boat started to work itself out. I sea-foamed the tank and probably only have 25 gal left in there. got to the point where it was just stuttering a bit holding 3000-4000 RPM... anything more then that and it would stutter quite bad. i'll try and get all the way through this gas and start fresh with new Rec90. Also looks like my gas tank vent broke at some point, likely the entry point for water into the system.
 
racerone said:
Checked the shift interrupt switch ?----Water in the fuel ?----Filters replaced ?----Optical sensor acting up ?
Click to expand...

welp. Back to testing today. With clean fuel and it’s not the fuel. Regardless of whether I put the boat in gear or keep the button on the console pressed, it will not rev up. Period.

back to square one. It’s not even dramatic. I’ll push the throttle up and the moment I do the engine just shuts off.

willimg to try and testing anything. Not sure where to look next
 
- If at the motor, I manually open the butterflies on all 6 carbs, revs go up, no hesitation
- If at the motor, I manually advance the timing, the motor dies
​
Click to expand...
Optical eye or harness could have a problem...
 
faztbullet said:
Optical eye or harness could have a problem...
Click to expand...
The eye is original from 96... the powerpack is brand new, new regulator as well as stator... is there a test, voltage or otherwise i can do on the eye? The eye is only 80 bucks or so, might be good to replace anyways and just rule that out. Could be a short somewhere on the harness. That would suck.
 
ok, guys. was making some progress. Replaced the optical sensor. Fired up great and idled well in driveway and even allowed me to apply throttle and build revs, great.
dropped in the water. fired right up. put in gear, got on plane, was cruising for maybe a minute, DEAD STOP. motor off and would not return. had to get towed back, not even idle. Engine now turns over, fires like its going to start and then immediately dies. I have included a video to help: https://youtu.be/uxO-EuzBefM

this symptom is brand new, something i haven't seen these past few years. it legit fires like its going to run and then just dies. i feel like some protection circuit in the power pack maybe is kicking in for some reason? Honestly, no clue. please help!:confused:
 
I don't think the primer solenoid should be tied into anything related to the ignition circuits. But, just for grins, unplug the primer solenoid, pump the primer bulb until firm, and try to start it again. Does it start normally like when you have the key pushed in or do you get nothing?

Another really quick easy test is to simply perform a spark test. If you have good spark on all cylinders when turning the key then you can confirm it's not an electrical issue.

My guess is you still have a fuel delivery issue since it only runs with the primer solenoid engaged.

KJ
 
kevinj said:
I don't think the primer solenoid should be tied into anything related to the ignition circuits. But, just for grins, unplug the primer solenoid, pump the primer bulb until firm, and try to start it again. Does it start normally like when you have the key pushed in or do you get nothing?

Another really quick easy test is to simply perform a spark test. If you have good spark on all cylinders when turning the key then you can confirm it's not an electrical issue.

My guess is you still have a fuel delivery issue since it only runs with the primer solenoid engaged.

KJ
Click to expand...

the primer solenoid only engages if I press the key in. The motor keeps firing if I keep the key turned all the way which is keeping the starter engaged and spinning. I’m at the boat right now and really super confused. Tested the kill switch and it’s not that.
 
Power coil on stator(org wires) is bad. The solenoid sends voltage to pack to operate eye till engine RPMs build from engine running. By holding key you are sending power to eye manually.
 
faztbullet said:
Power coil on stator(org wires) is bad. The solenoid sends voltage to pack to operate eye till engine RPMs build from engine running. By holding key you are sending power to eye manually.
Click to expand...

damn. This is a new stator too (1 year old). I wonder if cdi has a warranty. Any thoughts on how it blew and maybe a way to prevent in future?
 
Need to check the connections as CDI's junk is known for bad terminals,pins not pressed in far enough or breaking at crimps. Check the coil (org/org-blk wires) on right side of pack. Should be in the 40-70 ohms range and if you have a DVA it should have 12+volts cranking and 18=at running idle.
 
faztbullet said:
Need to check the connections as CDI's junk is known for bad terminals,pins not pressed in far enough or breaking at crimps. Check the coil (org/org-blk wires) on right side of pack. Should be in the 40-70 ohms range and if you have a DVA it should have 12+volts cranking and 18=at running idle.
Click to expand...

it doesn't run, so i can test the resistance for sure. but otherwise not sure how to testing voltage because of the not running thing.
 
faztbullet said:
Need to check the connections as CDI's junk is known for bad terminals,pins not pressed in far enough or breaking at crimps. Check the coil (org/org-blk wires) on right side of pack. Should be in the 40-70 ohms range and if you have a DVA it should have 12+volts cranking and 18=at running idle.
Click to expand...

tested the stator and getting 1-2 OHMS... thing is shot. pulled stator and contacted CDI because this is BS for such a new stator. Will get replaced and provide update.
 
faztbullet said:
Need to check the connections as CDI's junk is known for bad terminals,pins not pressed in far enough or breaking at crimps. Check the coil (org/org-blk wires) on right side of pack. Should be in the 40-70 ohms range and if you have a DVA it should have 12+volts cranking and 18=at running idle.
Click to expand...

i ****ed up. I was testing the big yellow wires and getting 0-2 ohms. Now I test the orange and orange/blk and get 56 ohms.

so turns out stator fine I guess.
 
Welp. I went back through the carbs. all appear to be getting fuel as needed and not sticking or anything funny... no blocks ports are anything like that. So is it a good chance my wiring harness is the thing messed up? Maybe a crimped wire or something somewhere?
 
No time to read every post.-----Rebuilt carburetors , where float bowls checked for warpage ?------Test run with another portable fuel tank and hose as well.----Checked vapor extraction pump and tank ??
 
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racerone said:
No time to read every post.-----Rebuilt carburetors , where float bowls checked for warpage ?------Test run with another portable fuel tank and hose as well.----Checked vapor extraction pump and tank ??
Click to expand...

bowls have been slightly warped for last few years, but don't leak. System holds prime well. Vapor extraction pump? Is this the VRO pump? If so, I did check not too long ago, but hell, I'll tear into it again just to see.
 
racerone said:
Vapor pump and VRO pump are 2 seperate pumps.----Checked all your filters ?
Click to expand...

Just got back from the boat. Replaced the main fuel filter and checked the VRO pump again. Took apart, everything in order. Tried starting again, nope. Still will only "run" with key turned all the way to START and starter engaged. Not how to test if the vapor pump is operating as needed?
 
SOLVED
WEll it’s been a journey but figured out it was the power pack. There is a wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the power pack and delivers 12v while cranking. Then when cranking is over the power pack should take over and begin producing spark. It’s the yellow/red wire. You can test but cutting that wire and running a 12v direct into it on the power pack side. Then just start the boy as normal at the key. It should run fine and then when you disconnect that 12v the engine will stop. Bad power pack!

sending this crap power pack into CDI as less than 1 year old and hopefully will get replaced for free.
 
Battery supplies 12 volts to powerpack / optical system sensor while cranking.----Once motor is running the stator takes over and supplies the 12 volts to the system I believe.
 
As long as the power coil on stator is putting out voltage(can be tested while cranking) its good. If pack not processing that voltage it will do as you posted as only running on voltage supplied by solenoid wire.
 
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faztbullet said:
As long as the power coil on stator is putting out voltage(can be tested while cranking) its good. If pack not processing that voltage it will do as you posted as only running on voltage supplied by solenoid wire.
Click to expand...

bingo. Solenoid tested out. New power pack comes in tomorrow. I’ll post a final thoughts once it comes. Hopefully this is the last issue for a while. Ha
 
Update!!! And new symptom. After running well since replacing the power pack early this year I noticed today that my Volta were not going up to the charging range while running. Not great. Pull the stator to visually inspect and test the Orange/Orange blk wires. Getting 54 ohms. I don’t believe rectifier is having issue as my tach still works fine. So new year, new gremlin!

to the best of my knowledge if the stator is outputting and the rectifier is rectifying and the power pack is processing, battery should be charging?

no idea
 
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