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Volvo Penta 280 prop change help

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Anrky

New member
Hi all. I'm new here so still learning the ropes.
I own a 1970's 18ft Stejcraft half cabin powered by a B20 AQ130D via a single prop 280 outdrive. The prop desperately needs replacing along with the prop anode. I have attempted several times to twist and unbolt this prop without any success to date. The prop in question does not have a centre bolt however has a prop cone with a hole through it. Behind the prop cone and In front of the prop is the tab washer. I am assuming that the tab washer needs to have all tabs depressed and disengaged from the back of the prop cone in order to spin off the prop cone? Also, how do I tell if it is LH or RH thread? This may be basic info for some but this problem has me baffled at present. Appreciate any assistance from your collective knowledge.
 
Anrky said:
Hi all. I'm new here so still learning the ropes.
I own a 1970's 18ft Stejcraft half cabin powered by a B20 AQ130D via a single prop 280 outdrive. The prop desperately needs replacing along with the prop anode. I have attempted several times to twist and unbolt this prop without any success to date. The prop in question does not have a centre bolt however has a prop cone with a hole through it. Behind the prop cone and In front of the prop is the tab washer. I am assuming that the tab washer needs to have all tabs depressed and disengaged from the back of the prop cone in order to spin off the prop cone? Also, how do I tell if it is LH or RH thread? This may be basic info for some but this problem has me baffled at present. Appreciate any assistance from your collective knowledge.
Click to expand...

The tabs do need to be depressed back towards the face of the prop. I've used a flat head screw driver the same width as the tabs, and gently tap each one back. Unscrew counter clockwise as I recall. There should be a hole in the prop cone you can stick a screwdriver in for more leverage. Standard rotation for the actual prop is LH, make sure you get the right replacement prop, you can look at the stamp on the propeller casting for some info regarding prop size and rotation.
 
Thanks for your assistance. I will give that a go first and come back with the next chapter. When I tried depressing the tabs last time it almost seemed they were made from spring steel?? Maybe I just need to apply appropriate force to actually bend each tab back. Not a lot of wiggle room with those tabs however I will certainly persist. Once I have removed the prop, does anyone know of a good source for replacement props in Australia or are they an OS only item? Also should I replace with aluminium or stainless steel?
 
Anrky said:
Thanks for your assistance. I will give that a go first and come back with the next chapter. When I tried depressing the tabs last time it almost seemed they were made from spring steel?? Maybe I just need to apply appropriate force to actually bend each tab back. Not a lot of wiggle room with those tabs however I will certainly persist. Once I have removed the prop, does anyone know of a good source for replacement props in Australia or are they an OS only item? Also should I replace with aluminium or stainless steel?
Click to expand...

I've had to bend mine back on my short hub props, just enough to clear the "teeth" on the cone.

No idea about aus props, there's a shop here in the US you could call, and see what intl shipping looks like if you strike out in Australia. No affiliation, they did good work on my props and have AQ props for sale.
https://propmd.com/

As far as prop material, stainless is more durable, thinner blade material generally, and is used on higher performance stuff. It is more expensive to repair. I have all aluminum original OEM props and they are probably 35 years or older and work fine.

Other more experienced members could prob chime in about prop material.
 
............
Anrky said:
Hi all. I'm new here so still learning the ropes.
I own a 1970's 18ft Stejcraft half cabin powered by a B20 AQ130D via a single prop 280 outdrive. The prop desperately needs replacing along with the prop anode.
This anode actually attaches to the prop shaft bearing carrier.

I have attempted several times to twist and unbolt this prop without any success to date. The prop in question does not have a centre bolt however has a prop cone with a hole through it. Behind the prop cone and In front of the prop is the tab washer. I am assuming that the tab washer needs to have all tabs depressed and disengaged from the back of the prop cone in order to spin off the prop cone?
You would actually disengage the locking tabs from in front of or forward of the spinner.


Also, how do I tell if it is LH or RH thread?
The spinner threads are standard RH threads. Righty/tighty.... lefty/loosy.
The center locking bolt is also RH threaded. Righty/tighty.... lefty/loosy.
Click to expand...

1981Century said:
The tabs do need to be depressed back towards the face of the prop. I've used a flat head screw driver the same width as the tabs, and gently tap each one back. Unscrew counter clockwise as I recall. There should be a hole in the prop cone you can stick a screwdriver in for more leverage. Standard rotation for the actual prop is LH, make sure you get the right replacement prop, you can look at the stamp on the propeller casting for some info regarding prop size and rotation.
Spot on!
Click to expand...

Anrky said:
Thanks for your assistance. I will give that a go first and come back with the next chapter. When I tried depressing the tabs last time it almost seemed they were made from spring steel??
The locking tab washer tabs should be fairly easy to bend.


Maybe I just need to apply appropriate force to actually bend each tab back. Not a lot of wiggle room with those tabs however I will certainly persist. Once I have removed the prop, does anyone know of a good source for replacement props in Australia or are they an OS only item? Also should I replace with aluminium or stainless steel?
Stainless Steel props perform better. However, given an un-wanted impact, they are prone to transferring the impact force into the prop shaft and gear assembly.
Whereas the aluminum prop will take all or most of the impact and self destroy. Much cheaper than internal drive repair.
Click to expand...

By the way..... if you have an internally threaded propeller shaft, you can use the spinner that offers the center locking bolt.
No locking tab washer is needed with this style.
The difference in the thread pitch is what creates the "anti-backing-off" safety factor.
 
Since Volvo's backup ( rubber bonded hub in prop is primary) protection against serious internal transmission damage in the event of an impact is a "breakaway" section in the internal vertical drive shaft, I prefer aluminum props.
 
In my 24+ years of AQ series repair, I've seen several vertical shafts that were snapped in half, and yet the spline coupler remained in tact.

But I agree...... run the aluminum props UNLESS you know that the waters are free from dead-heads, submerged rocks, etc.
 
1981Century said:
I've had to bend mine back on my short hub props, just enough to clear the "teeth" on the cone.

No idea about aus props, there's a shop here in the US you could call, and see what intl shipping looks like if you strike out in Australia. No affiliation, they did good work on my props and have AQ props for sale.
https://propmd.com/

As far as prop material, stainless is more durable, thinner blade material generally, and is used on higher performance stuff. It is more expensive to repair. I have all aluminum original OEM props and they are probably 35 years or older and work fine.

Other more experienced members could prob chime in about prop material.
Click to expand...


Awesome :) Thank you for you guidance. I shall hopefully come back soon to report success
 
sandkicker said:
Since Volvo's backup ( rubber bonded hub in prop is primary) protection against serious internal transmission damage in the event of an impact is a "breakaway" section in the internal vertical drive shaft, I prefer aluminum props.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the wise info.
 
RicardoMarine said:
In my 24+ years of AQ series repair, I've seen several vertical shafts that were snapped in half, and yet the spline coupler remained in tact.

But I agree...... run the aluminum props UNLESS you know that the waters are free from dead-heads, submerged rocks, etc.
Click to expand...

Totally get it. Now to source the appropriate prop here in Australia is the next challenge. Having said that, I have completely restored the old B20 AQ130D with new parts from all over the world so if nothing here in Aus then OS we go. Thanks for your help.
 
re: "The prop desperately needs replacing along with the prop anode." A good prop repair shop can often resurrect a badly damaged prop.
 
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