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Question about emptying carb during periods of non use

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............... I know my current fuel pump wiring is not to regulation but the thing I like about it is that I turn the key in for a few moments then bump the starter and engine fires right up.
Yes, that is a nice feature, but as you now know it is not legal.
The momentary switch (if you add that) will work just as well.



I went through my entire ignition system today and found some issues that I think are attributable to me engine miss that I posted on separately. If I have not worn out my welcome, I’d appreciate any additional insight in that thread.
You have not worn out your welcome. It's your thread!

FYI in one of the posts you mentioned a some drawbacks on trickle chargers.
Yes, a trickle charger does not cut back on the charge rate as one should. When left on for a lengthy duration, they can over charge and damage a wet cell battery.

I was using the term because I’d heard it before and thought any slow charger was a trickle. Thanks to your comments I looked again at my current charger and it is a ”smart” battery maintainer. So I think I’m good.
A battery maintenance charger will work for keeping one in storage, but may not be sufficient for bringing a low house battery up to par.
For an On-Board house bank charger, you will want a Marine charger with Smart Charge Technology and at least a 20 amp rating.


I know everyone has different perspectives ..............
My grandfather once told me; "there are several ways to skin the cat, but the furrier dealer will tell you that one cat skinner will bring him a better pelt."

I’m pretty sure you guys have seen just about anything that I’ll run across.
I began working as a mechanic in the late 60s. I operated my own Volvo Penta repair business for 24 years.
So yes, I've seen my share of strange, unsafe, weird, unorthodox and dangerous things being done to a boat.
 
Let's see if this is in a higher resolution.


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Dang... it's no better!
Received the new marine starter today and reviewing this thread. Intend install with Relay and LOP switch on weekend. Also planning on the momentary at helm for start bypass circuit to "prime the carb" and save my new starter motor.

New starter does not have the solenoid terminals marked:mad:. I've got a call into the manufacturer. Based on comments this thread I'm assuming one of the small terminals on new starter is "S" and one is "I" or "R".

What do I do with the small yellow/Red wire that was terminated on the old starter. The OMC manual shows it going from large diameter red cable to a small terminal. As you can see from the pic, I have two small terminals on new starter.

Old Starter
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New Starter
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Will I connect one of the small terminals to wire to the LOP per your diagram or can I use the "S" terminal from the slave solenoid on engine block?

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So I have clarity on the terminal designation from the mfg of new starter posted below. I sent them a same pictures of my OEM diagrams and old automotive starter wiring which was per the OMC manual.

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  1. My questions to their tech support was should I wire the new starter the same way as the old starter?
  2. How the the relay terminal be used.

Their reply:

"The way the jumper is connected would trigger the IGN terminal to engage the solenoid and extend the gear out when voltage is applied to the BAT post, hot wired you might say.

Unfortunately we are unable to advise on the slave relay's function or the choke (19)."

I will plan to wire the same as the starter I removed since it is per manual. Still curious about the Relay terminal on the starter motor solenoid.
 

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So I have clarity on the terminal designation from the mfg of new starter posted below. I sent them a same pictures of my OEM diagrams and old automotive starter wiring which was per the OMC manual.

Correction:

SWC65 starter motor image.jpg


  1. My questions to their tech support was should I wire the new starter the same way as the old starter? That depends on whether the old starter motor was wired correctly or not.
  2. How the the relay terminal be used. The R terminal and circuit can be used to trigger the fuel pump's relay during cranking..... therefor giving you a "start-by-pass" system.

Their reply:

"The way the jumper is connected would trigger the IGN terminal to engage the solenoid and extend the gear out when voltage is applied to the BAT post, hot wired you might say.
Who are you speaking with that would be this un-informed?
The Ignition terminal invloves the ignition.... NOT the starter motor solenoid.

Unfortunately we are unable to advise on the slave relay's function or the choke (19)."
Good..... I would not want any further advice from them.

I will plan to wire the same as the starter I removed since it is per manual.
Still curious about the Relay terminal on the starter motor solenoid.
See above.
 
continued:


Regarding the picture of your starter motor:
The yellow w/ red stripe wire is your S (solenoid) circuit. This is the circuit that may be used to create a "start-by-pass" circuit that will momentarily trigger the fuel pump's relay.

By the way, your old school Delco non-gear reduction starter motor needs the front bracket attached.
The nut for securing that bracket appears to be loose.
If not too late, I would return that starter motor in exchange for a Marine SBC HTGR/PMGR starter motor.

Regarding the picture of the oil pressure switch and oil pressure sending unit:
Yes, the unit that you are calling a light switch is a simple N/C pressure switch. It takes the idiot light circuit to Negative.
I seldom see an idiot light and switch being used on a Marine engine. Furthermore, it is not the type that can be used for the fuel pump circuit.



The electric fuel pump shown is not correct for a main engine fuel supply.
That style is used for small engines like a Marine generator.

You need an electric fuel pump similar to this Carter 4594 .....


shopping
Carter rotary vane pumps are a bad idea, I had big problems, the pot metal corroded, the vanes wore, the internal pressure regulator stuck and sent 18 psi to the carb, the deadheading of this pump churns the gas so hot it vaporlocks, this pump can heat up the gas especially running close to a hot engine, your not supposed to mount a fuel pump more than 4 feet away from an engine, it actually is preferred to be mounted on the engine somehow.
When I switched to the Facet Marine pump made by Seachoice, it has worked perfectly. Autoprimes well.

Here is my experience
https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/seachoice-fuel-pump-facet-fuel-pump.53751/
 
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