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2002 Rinker 212 with Mercruiser 5.0 MPI wont crank

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bstevenson

New member
I am new here and have searched a lot before making an account.... I cannot not find what I am looking for....

Boat started a few weeks ago...first crank of the spring. Battery was dead, I charged and it cranked right up. Shut it off and continue doing some wiring for new lights, speakers, etc...

Now the boat wont start, wont crank... nothing!
The lights from the dash, alarm test, radio, lights, etc all come on when I turn the switch. I can hear a faint click but nothing actually happens.
Doesn't sound like a dead battery or bad starter.

I am to my wits end with this thing...

Here is what I have done and inspected since searching on multiple sites...

New starter, has 12.6 volts at the connector at the starter.
Tested the starter wire 90 amp fuse- power runs through and OHM test.
replaced slave solenoid on top of the engine.
All three batteries are at 12.5-12.8 volts.
Removed and OHM tested the neutral safety switch.


I have the 50 amp circuit breaker and ignition cylinder on order.


I even removed the 2 new batteries and battery shut off switch, back to the way it was last year and still nothing...


Is there ANY other ideas of what it could be?


Located in North Texas, so the boat doesn't ever see a harsh winter or super cold weather.
 
Main wiring harness on back of engine, usually has a hose clamp holding it to the base, play with it, jiggle it, push it in further see what happens.
 
Ayuh,...... Is there voltage on the battery post on the key switch,..??

Is there voltage to the tiny (+) terminal on the coil, with the key, On,..??

Is there voltage to the yellow/ red wire on the solenoid, when the key is turned to start,..??
 
bondo said:
Ayuh,...... Is there voltage on the battery post on the key switch,..??

Is there voltage to the tiny (+) terminal on the coil, with the key, On,..??

Is there voltage to the yellow/ red wire on the solenoid, when the key is turned to start,..??
Click to expand...

thank you. I will check all of those after dinner...
 
bondo said:
Ayuh,...... Is there voltage on the battery post on the key switch,..??

Is there voltage to the tiny (+) terminal on the coil, with the key, On,..??

Is there voltage to the yellow/ red wire on the solenoid, when the key is turned to start,..??
Click to expand...

key has power
yellow/red does not
I don’t know which is power on the coil, will research tomorrow
 
bstevenson said:
I can hear a faint click but nothing actually happens.
Click to expand...

If you hear a faint click when you turn the key to start, your slave solenoid is bad..... If you turn the key back and forth from start to run fast eventually it will engage the starter solenoid.

The slave is a $36 part and easy to change.
 
bstevenson said:
key has power
yellow/red does not
I don’t know which is power on the coil, will research tomorrow
Click to expand...

Please specify how you got this info. did you turn key to check for power on wires?

Red is key power, yellow with red is crank power when key is in the CRANK position only and that wire travels through the shift control so if not in neutral NO crank.
Purple is typically Key in RUN position

Lanyard (Kill/Dead man switch) kills ignition only
 
kghost said:
Please specify how you got this info. did you turn key to check for power on wires?

Red is key power, yellow with red is crank power when key is in the CRANK position only and that wire travels through the shift control so if not in neutral NO crank.
Purple is typically Key in RUN position

Lanyard (Kill/Dead man switch) kills ignition only
Click to expand...


I checked power at the key, RED wire had power, yellow red had power.
Lanyard switch does kill all power still.
 
If jumping the 2 large lugs spins the motor and the key does not, your missing the 12v from the start position or your missing the ground.Take a jumper from the + battery and touch the small yellow/red wire at the slave , motor should spin
Y , your missing the 12v from the key
N, your missing a ground or have a bad solenoid
 
Bt Doctur said:
If jumping the 2 large lugs spins the motor and the key does not, your missing the 12v from the start position or your missing the ground.Take a jumper from the + battery and touch the small yellow/red wire at the slave , motor should spin
Y , your missing the 12v from the key
N, your missing a ground or have a bad solenoid
Click to expand...


ok so positive to yellow/red spins... what could not let the power from the ignition?
 
Positive to the SMALL yellow/red? then start at the key switch, check for 12v with the switch in the start position, Y, go to control box, locate the 2 yellow or the 2 yelow/red wires and cut away from control box and jump together. Turn key to start, if motor turns you have a bad shift interlock switch, switch is in the control box.
If no, follow harness from dash to engine canon plug, engine side of the plug goes to the slave
 
so I ran a jumper from the ignition switch direct to the slave solenoid, started right up. So it is either the neutral safety switch or the plug.... or something happened to the wiring behind the wall where I cannot see it... Thank you for your help... I hope this helps someone in the future also.
 
Follow the yellow with red striped wires, maybe one came loose at a connector if used between control and key switch.

Pull large connector at engine harness and inspect for corrosion or bad/damaged pins/sockets.
 
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