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Heya! ‘80 Evinrude 18hp - ILLINOIS

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De5ert

New member
Bought this ‘80 Evinrude motor off a old man who said it ran before he took it out of the water a couple years. Missouri title.. I just moved here near St Louis on Illinois side. he said he never registered the outboard because it was on private lake and it’s a clean clear title. What should I expect?

took it home, doesn’t wanna fire up. Plugs wire looks ok. Will buy new spark plug. Hi / low mix knob has 1-6, but I can only turn the knob from 3 to 5? choke a little tricky.. and a black button that I thought was primer doesn’t appear to be a bulb. It has pull start on top but also has cables for the electric start. Hard tough pulls that goes out in two parts, a short pull that stops 1/4 or 1/3 of the way. Rope pull resists hard as I try to pull it all the way out.. need new role pull?? looks like I’ll need to clean carb. Do not have anything for electric start so I want to remove the cables if possible?

cannot find correct fuel / oil ratio?

need all the advice I can get thanks!
 
Want my honest thoughts? I've read through your post several times, and think you are totally unfamiliar with outboard motors. This is NOT meant as an insult. We all started at day one.

Anyway, my concern is that it appears you just got the motor and are already thinking about tearing into it. My advice to you is find somebody local that you trust to look it over and give an honest evaluation and instructions on the use and feeding of it. There are a lot of boaters in Illinois.

Fuel mix is 50:1 using regular gas and TC-W3 outboard oil.
 
A 1980's outboard at 18 HP ?-----Start with posting a model #.--Or a picture of it.------And I agree with the above comments.-----Read some books / get a manual / view some videos on you tube so you can become more familiar with outboard motors.----You also need to install a new impeller.----And please do not resort to slamming the messengers here.
 
I think that black button you thought was a primer bulb is the Stop button to cut power to the outboard (Look for the word STOP printed on the decal near the button). As for your sticky rope pull start I would take the cover off and look for something obvious that's obstructing the rotation. People like to clean their carbs early in troubleshooting, but I don't think you get there until you can get a good pull going.
 
faztbullet said:
Agree with all the above posted...also Erude quit making the 18HP in 1973 so cannot be a 80"s model
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Title says 1980 18hp.. cover says 18horses.. Site will not let me upload images.

Here are pictures I’m trying to attach


1st of all- I am Deaf / hearing impaired so
my thought process is much different than others. Those who say I don’t know ****, is in for a surprise. I may not have the best English, this is NOT my first outboard motor. I’ve bought and played with plenty SMALLER outboards.. this is the FIrST one I have that had electric cables for electric start and all that.

but I welcome any and all criticism.

pictures I tried to attach, this site is a little weird to operate and navigate around, especially trying to attach pictures.
 

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Motor looks to be a 1965 model according to your titel model #----But on the motor I see 188 and that would be a 1968 model.---Decals on the cowling tell me it is a 1968 model !!--------Most every one here is 100% certain that it is NOT a 1980 model.
 
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racerone said:
Motor looks to be a 1965 model according to your titel model #----On the motor I see 188 and that would be a 1968 model.----Most every one here is 100% certain that it is NOT a 1980 model.
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thank you for that info, that would explain why I couldn’t find any intel on 1980 I’ve been going off the assumption that title was correct I see now that it is not.. I did a quick look up of the ‘68 models and you are right. Thank you.
 
That title doesn't match the serial number on your motor. It says 18502SE10653 on the title which would correspond to a 1965 Evinrude 18hp. It says 18802M-E12151 on your serial number plate which would correspond to a 1968 Evinrude 18hp.

I don't know who was responsible for creating that title, but they didn't get the year right regardless.

If you take the rope start assembly off does the flywheel rotate freely?
 
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Swarlos said:
That title doesn't match the serial number on your motor. It says 18502SE10653 on the title which would correspond to a 1965 Evinrude 18hp. It says 18802M-E12151 on your serial number plate which would correspond to a 1968 Evinrude 18hp.

I don't know who was responsible for creating that title, but they didn't get the year right regardless.
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goes to show that I cannot trust old man around here.. looks like I’m in for a long fight / hassle at the DNR..
 
Swarlos said:
If you take the rope start assembly off does the flywheel rotate freely?
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I’ve not taken it apart yet, waiting to get new sparks in mail. It’s cold windy and looks to rain soon, am not blessed with a shop ha. Will take it off and see if it rolls freely tomorrow when we have better weather thank you
 
The stern bracket may have been replaced. Look at the serial number on the round disk on the powerhead. 18502 is a 1965, 18802 is a 1968. The electric start has been added.

Believe me when I said I didn't want to insult you. But you asked for advice.
 

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fdrgator said:
The stern bracket may have been replaced. Look at the serial number on the round disk on the powerhead. 18502 is a 1965, 18802 is a 1968. The electric start has been added.

Believe me when I said I didn't want to insult you. But you asked for advice.
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I take it with a grain of salt but am happy for an expert advice. As for “finding somebody local” I went down that route and Illinois is a dickhead state.. in Arizona you would be able to find somebody to run diagnostics for 40-75 bucks and they throw in plenty of tips and advice on a particular model or issue that I am having. Here, they’re either in the hiding, or trying to charge you $150 just to show up. Hence why I’ve decided to come here and create an account. Many of my issues in the past has been solved just by surfing this forum. Moving here to Illinois from Arizona I’m faced with different type of troubleshooting, and now I find the title and the motor serials doesn’t even match up, title wants to say it’s 1980 and y’all tell me it’s either a ‘65 or a ‘68.. and Illinois/Missouri around St Louis has proven to be very dishonest place this old man who sold me the outboard seemed genuine, he even said he ran straight gas when I asked him what the oil and fuel mix he was using (should have been a first red flag for me). Now I’m thinking everything is fried because he been running straight gas. Hence why I want to tear through it. I question everything now that I find it’s not ‘80.. now it’s likely I have to do a complete rebuild.. can’t wait to move back west.
 
Big cities appear to be bad for a long time.------I have used the term " too many animals in a barn and they start to fight "----This applies to high schools and big cities.------The next few months may well illustrate what that term means.----Small town folks will help each other.
 
De5ert, have you investigated the Antique Outboard Club? I just did a quick count and found 122 members in the state of Illinois. In addition, there are local chapters, one in particular comes to mind, the Motorheads Chapter in Elburn, Il. There are many other members in neighbor states. Of course, I don't know them all, but I do know I wouldn't consider a single one of them to be a "dickhead". These are the guys I had in mind when I suggested "somebody local".

Normally, there are local meets all over the country, but needless to say that's pretty much on hold now, due to the virus. When things open up, you would do well to attend one of the meets. Those guys are quick to share their experience and give advice, and it's FREE.

[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]https://aomci.org/chapters/[/FONT]
 
Great motors, only weigh 70 pounds. Electric start is rare. If he ran without oil then that is why it won't turn over properly. I have some good powerheads, probably no need to spend big money on that one. Let us know what you decide. Do a compression test if you can limber it up with some oil and really no need to tear into it if you don't have 90 to 100 pounds compression......or better. Titles often get messed up with boats and motors.
 
If you want/like motor check it over good before droppimng any more coin or if dissatisfied try to get $$ back. I would inspect it reaaaaal good since someone has replaced the head on it
 
Fact-----Many of these motors still running like a top.------Starter motor and bracket are used on these from 58 to 1976.-----A high demand item , can maybe recoup all your money from those 2 items.----Hopefully you do not have more that $300 invested so far.-----Dirt on cowling appears to show it sat for 3 1/2 years or more.-----Likely lots of backyards will be cleaned out this summer.-----Empty wallet / stomach means you go fishing or sell the stuff you don't use anymore.
 
Something like that ugly looking 18, even with electric start, will bring barely 100 bucks up here in MN. Found one just like it in the landfill 2 years ago. Elec start too. Turned out to be a sweet motor. Sold it to a good friend for $600 after complete service with cables, coils, water pump, hoses, plug wires....etc....He loves it, he is 82 years old.
 
Hello all- got new spark plugs in, still no spark no fire.. I want to remove the electric starter assembly and leave it to just pull start alone, is that possible?

I’m not getting any fire.

motor seems to have been serviced by a professional since they left a silver plate with their business # on it. But it is not local.

I took the pull start off and pulled it by itself, rope is good, spring is good.

flywheel rotates But is tough turns.. obviously has compression. The prop blades moves when flywheel is turned.

I made sure it is in Neutral position setting and still no fire.

think there must be something about electric start that is preventing the pull start from working.

any tip please :)
 
The 12 volts from the battery has nothing to do with making 25,000 volts to fire the sparkplugs.------The battery is only used to crank it over.
 
Update: new stop/kill switch, new coils installed, took apart the carburetor and cleaned it out and reassembled it, the starter assembly and wires had to be disconnected In order to remove carburetor and so I took this opportunity to get rid of the extra wiring that is used for electric start cables (they looked corroded anyway) still not getting spark / fire. Got compression tester, tested at 95-105 range both cylinder.. too low??? Bad?

Can’t be the spark plugs as they’re new. I have the new coils in. I tried the inline spark tester and apparently I’m not generating enough to get spark, helper did get “shocked” lightly holding the tester. She Could only see one big spark once and that was it. Already sunk all this money, might as well finish it off. Wondering what I could be missing??

Took apart fuel pump and filter, maybe the diaphragm might be the reason, looked disintegrated/ had bits falling apart. new fuel pump on the way, along with a new impeller. Thanks In advance!
 
De5ert said:
Update: new stop/kill switch, new coils installed, took apart the carburetor and cleaned it out and reassembled it, the starter assembly and wires had to be disconnected In order to remove carburetor and so I took this opportunity to get rid of the extra wiring that is used for electric start cables (they looked corroded anyway) still not getting spark / fire. Got compression tester, tested at 95-105 range both cylinder.. too low??? Bad?

Can’t be the spark plugs as they’re new. I have the new coils in. I tried the inline spark tester and apparently I’m not generating enough to get spark, helper did get “shocked” lightly holding the tester. She Could only see one big spark once and that was it. Already sunk all this money, might as well finish it off. Wondering what I could be missing??

Took apart fuel pump and filter, maybe the diaphragm might be the reason, looked disintegrated/ had bits falling apart. new fuel pump on the way, along with a new impeller. Thanks In advance!
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Did you try cleaning the points? It sounds like its trying to spark but dirty points could hold it back.
 
MNvoyageur said:
Did you try cleaning the points? It sounds like its trying to spark but dirty points could hold it back.
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points under the flywheel or is it deeper into power head? Tried to consult the manual (I have the manual) but having hard time pinpointing the points.
 
Yes, under the flywheel. The flywheels are usually on a taper fit, so you will probably need a puller. You can pull all of the exploded diagrams on this parts store here.
 
MNvoyageur said:
Yes, under the flywheel. The flywheels are usually on a taper fit, so you will probably need a puller. You can pull all of the exploded diagrams on this parts store here.
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I already took flywheel off in order to install new coils ha.. have the harmonics balancer puller. But thanks I’ll look around to see if I can identify the pointers
 
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