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bilge pump..alarm..fuses..I'm at a loss

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KbSeaRay

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Hello, trying to resolve a alarm. Got the annoying alarm when i switch on key on my 98 searay. Low fuel send a alarm? Dont think its temp or oil. On a other issue mayb related..i found a blown 4 amp fuse behind the engine in a water tight boot. i put in a new fuse and the bilge pump started running. Take out the fuse pump stops. i check out the pump it seems fine...float not stuck and the toggle switch at the helm is off..i remove the fuse and i can operate the pump with either the float or the toggle switch...anything else make a bilge pump run besides the float and the switch?? Thanks...still have the audio alarm during all this bilge troubleshooting...the trim is down and my oil reservoir is full also
 
ok so I figured out my alarm...boat needs to start to turn off...i pulled wire from oil pressure sensor and alarm went off :) duh....Still gotta figure out my bilge pump and that fuse
 
Hopefully, you have an ON/OFF bilge pump switch ONLY, and do not have one of the Manual/OFF/Auto helm switches.


FYI and FWIW for you guys who moor your boats, and may have the Manual/OFF/Auto helm switches!

You DO NOT want a helm located Manual/OFF/Auto bilge pump switch.
These require the MBSS (main battery selector switch) to be ON, plus the Manual/OFF/Auto switch must be left in the "Auto" mode in order to provide float switch power.

Our main engine bay bilge pump's float switch should be powered via an Un-Interruptible power supply, and from the largest Amp Hour battery bank.
You can power this from the rear MBSS terminal #2 (house bank), fusing the circuit appropriately.
Your On/Off ONLY helm switch will over-ride the float switch function if need be.


MBSS single engine w float sw connection.jpg

On Off Auto bilge pump switch.jpg

On Off Auto bilge pump switch cartoon .jpg
 

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  • bilge pump and float switch 101.jpg
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"""Hopefully, you have an ON/OFF bilge pump switch ONLY, and do not have one of the Manual/OFF/Auto helm switches.


FYI and FWIW for you guys who moor your boats, and may have the Manual/OFF/Auto helm switches!

You DO NOT want a helm located Manual/OFF/Auto bilge pump switch.
These require the MBSS (main battery selector switch) to be ON, plus the Manual/OFF/Auto switch must be left in the "Auto" mode in order to provide float switch power.

Our main engine bay bilge pump's float switch should be powered via an Un-Interruptible power supply, and from the largest Amp Hour battery bank.
You can power this from the rear MBSS terminal #2 (house bank), fusing the circuit appropriately.
Your On/Off ONLY helm switch will over-ride the float switch function if need be."""


What in the world is all of that SPEW???????????????????????? and the ridiculous graphics to boot!

Uninterruptible power supply..............Aside from you, who else would use such language and who else would know what that means?
OMG...............Of course I know exactly what it means but a simple boat owner would not.................KISS .....................moron.





most likely reason fuse blew is pump running all the time when it should not.

What you need to do is figure out how it is wired.

Go to bilge pump switch (at dash board) and see how it is wired.

How many wires are going to it and how many positions does the switch have? (is it an ON/OFF 2 position or OFF/ON/ON three position).

Once you let us know we can then determine how it may be wired.

Question? Why would you need the KEY ON to test or use bilge pump? The bilge switch MUST be wired to battery + 12 Volts. Not to ignition ON.
 
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Jack, we use words to describe the things and thoughts that we are conveying. If my words are too large or intellectual for you, please accept my apology for not dumming this down for you.
And by the way, I wrote this for the OP here, not for you.


Question? Why would you need the KEY ON to test or use bilge pump? The bilge switch MUST be wired to battery + 12 Volts. Not to ignition ON.
Click to expand...

First off, I did not say that the key must be on.
You appear to be so hell bent of disputing what I post, that you don't take the time to fully read nor comprehend it.

here.... I'll loan these to you.

Slow down and read.
Try your best to comprehend.
If need be, keep a dictionary next to you and refer to it.

Z



.......... The bilge switch MUST be wired to battery + 12 Volts. Not to ignition ON.
Click to expand...

By the way, there is no bilge switch that I am aware of. A bilge is a portion or area of a boat hull.
However, there will be a bilge pump switch.



.
 
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""Jack, we use words to describe the things and thoughts that we are conveying. If my words are too large or intellectual for you, please accept my apology for not dumming this down for you.
And by the way, I wrote this for the OP here, not for you. ""


What you wrote was way over the head of most people who post questions here...............AS USUAL!

You use what you consider (why I dont know) normal language when it is not. You are the only one who describes things as you do.

The rest of us use normal words and descriptions as used every day and in the profession.

As long as you continue to post garbage I will continue to point that out.

Remember, If the OP doesn't understand the basics of how a bilge pump is wired do you really think he will understand your explanation?

I THINK NOT!

Again

KISS........KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID


 
ok ok...i believe its working like it should. I think maybe the blown fuse was with original bilge pump...someone replaced the pump along the way.
anyhows... without a fuse in the back of the boat the pump will pump with the helm switch and with the float without the key on. the helm switch runs through a fuse under the dash. i dont believe when pump runs off the float it has any fuse. is that ok Thanks
 
heres the fuse holders at stern...wonder what the upper 10 amp fuse goes to (its not the blower or trim) ...(my pic was to big)IMG-1113small.jpg
 
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All circuits should have some type of circuit protection..... whether via fuse or via circuit breaker.
Also, the protection should be as near the source as feasible.

The protection is for the circuit, not the device!
 
Float switches for bilge pumps are bu hao. They can stick open if there is some debris that jams the float and then the battery goes flat. If there's more water coming in then the boat can sink. Also, "automatic" bilge pumps rely on cycling on every once in a while and check for resistance (presumably from pumping water) which can also run down the battery if the pump is of any useful size.
I use a Water Witch (https://waterwitchinc.com model 230) that is a solid state sensor that can't clog or get stuck.
For bilge pumps you absolutely want a dash switch that will allow you to manually override any automatic sensors. In addition you want the biggest baddest pump that will fit, even double up if you can.
Bilge pump can buy you enough time to safely get off the boat if it is going down. You really want a lot of pump. Only thing is that these will depend on the battery so if your battery bank is relatively small, the pump will poop out PDQ.
Another option is a engine mount pump but obviously good maintenance and seakeeping are your best defenses.
 
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Oh and anyone who still uses 1,2, BOTH, OFF switches in their electrical system is using 20th century technology and clearly not up on the latest tech. Jussain.
And float switches for bilge. Get ridda dat shatz
 
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Thanks...I got my inline fuse in for the bilge pump float wire :)
I also replaced my very weak audio alarm with a car headlight. works as a floor light too when the boat is not started but the key is in the on position.
This way if I'm riding around and a alarm condition arises I can see it :)
This a good idea ? Or am I a dummi :)lite.jpgoff.jpg
 
Use an LED instead. That bulb is hot hot hot and you don't wanna get in contact with it...like a bare leg brushing against it...ouch
Also, there are piezo alarms that are loud as hell and don't need much power. You may not be at the helm and actually see the lamp so it should be a secondary warning. Unless you are hearing impaired, then I guess it's not too valuable.
 
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HAHA................Ok here is the scenario............

You pull up to a spot, boat idling, you jump out for what ever reason...........take a piss or whatever and something goes wrong such as over heat or what ever...........


The brightest light in the world wont help you see it while in the water. Do as suggested...........go with an audible alarm of your choice
 
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