Johnson 25E77S Ignition Switch Question

A couple of months ago I picked up this Johnson 25HP for $150. It was in overall good shape when I bought it. No water in the lower unit oil, 125 psi compression on both cylinders and started, ran, idled and pumped water even though it hadn't been run in over a decade. I did all the usual maintenance items (carb rebuild, new impeller, lower unit oil change, spark plugs, thermostat).

I also converted it from remote steer to tiller steer using a steering bracket I bought from Mike's Outboard in Minnesota (these guys are incredible).

The last thing I need to do is install an ignition switch. The outboard came with a keyed ignition switch and separate choke switch mounted to a plastic plate. My original thought was drill a hole in the right, front corner of the aluminum motor housing to mount the keyed switch. I started marking and measuring to drill that hole today and realized that the male, thread part of that switch is just barely long enough to pass through the motor housing. The metal, threaded retaining ring would only just catch the threads and would not be able to screw all the way on.

Does anyone know of a better way to do this? Is there a better place to mount this keyed switch? Or another switch I could get with a longer male threaded part that would pass all the way through the housing?

The red cross in the last picture shows the spot I was thinking about drilling to mount the switch.

Cowling

Rwbutler- The switch I have would definitely work in the cowling, but then I'd have to disconnect the switch every time I took the cowling off to work on something. I'd rather not do that if I can avoid it. I'm currently looking at various aftermarket switches from Sierra and others to see if I can find one of them to fit through the motor housing and have the correct functions for what I need. I am not using the electric choke function (choking manually) so I think a 3 position switch without the push-to-choke feature will work.

Look up 1977 Johnson/Evinrude 25E77S instruments and cable on MarineEngine .com parts lookup and you will find all the original parts and numbers for what you want to do.

Carogator- I tried that. I looked at the parts schematic for the 25E77S and all the other 25HP models from that year. They all show the same switch that I currently have (which works just fine). I need one with the same functionality but a longer thread shaft so that it can pass through the motor casing with enough length left to screw on the retaining ring.

Well I've spent a fair amount of time searching the internet for a switch that would work, or an alternate mounting idea that I like. Haven't come up with either so far.

So I called Tim's Outboard and spoke to Dan. I described the problem and he spent a few minutes talking me though the options. He going to send me 2 different switches... One is a little bit longer than the one I've got and one is quite a bit longer. I'm gonna get both for less than the cost of most new switches and I'm fairly confident I'll be able to make one of them work. Will post pics of the finished product once I get it installed.

Some of those switches are adjustable. A backup nut inside frame and a outside nut. Maybe?

Carogator- you're absolutely right I completely forgot about that until the switches came in the mail. I was able to use the longer if the 2 switches and adjust it with the back nut so that it didn't stick out too far. I really like the look of the end result. Looks like it could've come from the factory that way. And I like the idea of a keyed switch vs. push button. I use the boat for hunting and sometimes leave it unattended. I like the idea of being able to disable it easily. With my pull start 20HP I have to remove the spark plugs.

Here are some pics of the finished product.

Nice work, so glad my friends at Tim's could help you, now you are one of the family. Don't forget to leave them a review.....that helps a lot.

Timguy- Since you referred me to them, the guys at Tim's have been such a big help to me for all three of the outboards I've result in the last year or so. I've ordered a bunch of parts from them, left a glowing review on Google and referred them to several friends locally. I don't know of a shop in the Atlanta area that has the used part selection they have, or is willing to give advice to us shade tree outboard mechanics.

As installed now is your switch a -----" flame arrested item "-----Yes , no or not sure ?

Maybe not, but they are sealed up pretty darn good. The only opening that fuel fumes could enter would be the keyhole.......which of course is outside air. Good thought, however. WTF......we are taking our lives in our own hands now anyway, every time we go to town. Especially us seniors.

Racerone- I'm not sure, as I hadn't heard the term "flame arrested item" until you just mentioned it. Based on that and Timguy's response I'm guessing that means there's a risk of fuel vapor getting into the innards of the switch and being ignited. Which is something I absolutely had not considered. Are there certain switches that are sealed to prevent this? Is there a way to tell if the switch is our isn't "flame protected"? If the one I have currently isn't I think I could change it out to one that is fairly easily.

Timguy- there is definitely plenty of risk out there right now, especially for folks of a certain vintage. I'm an ICU Registered Nurse currently assigned to the Covid isolation unit at a big Atlanta hospital. I can tell you that the stuff you're seeing on the news is not fake. I need all you old guys to be careful out there so you'll be around to teach me how to fix my outboards.

Thanks, brother.......your awesome.

Timguy- This isn't much of a surprise given my line of work, but I did test positive for COVID19 a few days ago. Luckily my symptoms are relatively mild and it just feels like I have a bad cold.

The upside is that I have a mandatory 2 weeks off work, and I might actually have a chance to take the boat out and test out the 25HP. Social distancing at it's finest. Hopefully I don't detonate any fuel vapors and blow the hood off my outboard at the boat ramp

Holy crap, brother.....better lay low, breath in some hot steam into your lungs. That works for me to clear congestion. I take a sauna with steam......you probably don't have a sauna, but I grew up with the Finns in Northern MN. Seems they hardly ever are sick.....the ones that regularly sauna......splash water on the rocks, then breathe in deeply. In your case just breathe steam from a pot or pan. We know that this virus cannot endure heat, but once in the body a fever is created in order to try to kill it. Since it attacks the lungs and respiratory, we can use inhaled steam to help kill it. Take care and thanks for putting your life on the line to save others.