Logo
FULL SITE MENU

GM Hydraulic lifter preload adjustment question

Running engine issues ( for me at least)
1) Messy bilge from oil splash
2) Exhaust manifolds (center rise) need to be loosened up and slid away from block by at least 1/4 inch in order to remove rocker cover.
 
I recall seeing mechanics in shops back in the 70s cutting down an old valve cover to keep the oil from running over the headers, at least in a boat they don't get hot like a set of Hooker Headers that could start a nice fire!
 
fastjeff said:
That's what we all did, and made a smoky mess regardless!

Ah, the old days...

Jeff
Click to expand...

Yes... the good ole days, and what a mess it could make.

Back in the mid 60s, I built a 337 cu in SBC for my 55 Chevy.
This engine had mechanical tappets that required a feeler gauge setting.
I used the high rocker arm nuts that required a set screw to lock them.
Even with brass set screw pads, they still required periodic adjustment.
I ended up buying a P & G dial indicator valve lash gaping tool, and of course this required going through them dynamically.

This tool was also excellent for use in locating ZERO lash while adjusting hydraulic followers.






Here's an old ad for P & G.




I still have that tool today!
 
Last edited:
RicardoMarine said:
Yes... the good ole days, and what a mess it could make.

Back in the mid 60s, I built a 337 cu in SBC for my 55 Chevy.
This engine had mechanical tappets that required a feeler gauge setting.
I used the high rocker arm nuts that required a set screw to lock them.
Even with brass set screw pads, they still required periodic adjustment.
I ended up buying a P & G dial indicator valve lash gaping tool, and of course this required going through them dynamically.

This tool was also excellent for use in locating ZERO lash while adjusting hydraulic followers.






Here's an old ad for P & G.




I still have that tool today!
Click to expand...


ratchet-socket-wrench-10379145.jpg

YUP works perfectly every time for anyone who uses it........and dont cost much or require any special set up or tools......Still have it today!

PCR OMFG!
 
My preference is to drain the lifters and set the valve stem clearances to .050-.060 using the one cylinder at a time method. BTW that is for LA engines. For SBC I'd go one full turn.

Mechanical lifters? More RMBS
 
mcomm said:
1..... My preference is to drain the lifters and set the valve stem clearances to .050-.060
2..... using the one cylinder at a time method.
Click to expand...

1.... Ultimately, we would make the adjustment prior to the intake manifold being installed, and prior to the followers receiving any oil (as in brand new).
At this time, the plunger is not being cushioned by any hydraulic means, making it very easy to see when the plunger begins to move downward.

2.... Basically, you have just described the 8 stop method, and I could not agree more with you.
 
Interesting, I recall learning to use a go-no-go feeler gauge while lying under one of my air cooled VWs adjusting the valves back in the '70s. I'd use the regular blade for the spec (.004" intake, .006" exhaust) then check it with the go-no go gauge to make sure I got it right.
Also adjusted valves on my '80 Honda Civic same way and my '82 Mazda 626 (that one was a pain because they had to be done hot, the Honda and VWs could be done cold). I had 2 Toyotas with the shim & bucket design but luckily never had to change any of them, a special tool is needed to compress the bucket, pull out the shim and then you mike the shim to determine which ones to buy if the clearance is off. This system is used by many outboards and I bet hardly anyone ever does this, unless the lifters get noisy.
The whole point....is.....thank God for GM Hydrualic lifters! Set em once and you're good!
 
Back
Top