290 tilt

Hey folks,
I do alot of fiberglass ztuff here on the west coast of canada, vancouver island to be exact. Basically rebuilding any double eagle or hourston glascraft. They are staples here on the west coast.
Generally find garbage ones and full gut job. New stringrs , transoms , floors..
Ive bin posting all my builds on faceplant and am now doing custom jobs for people.
My latest job is a transom re and re on a mint 18.5 double eagle with a hoppin 350 4 bolt main, 290 leg.
Normally i pull the stern drive set up and pod the boats with this one exception.
I know the 290 is bullit proof, might be a 280 , not sure.
Its got the old mechanical tilt,no trim, system.
My issue is i dont want to dissesmble it till its all in good order cause when it all goes back in the boat will be spotless.
The motors rebuit and runs greT, the drive goes into fwd and rev, all is sound except the tilt.
The motor can be lifted to full up postion and the trim button pushed up to send plunger down, then push button to trim down and works fine, trim up and it works but starts making louder motor noises at about halfway up and stopz rising. If i get out and lift the leg manually and have a freind push the button i can zee the plunger go down and it will trailor home az such.
I have taken the motor out and it goes both ways. I have removed the entire unit and placed it aside and activated the swicth in both directions and it goes through full motion .
When it gets half way it gets real noisy.
I took the whole thing apart and everything was well lubed and the bearings were good.
Reasemmbled and again bench tested the entire unit.
I think the plunger proba ly travels a total of obout 8 to 9 inches.
Is that normal, if not what could it be.

bent lift rod...

The threaded rod ,ie plunger rod.
It looks straight. Slides freely in and out when i threaded it back on. Didnt feel anything obvious. Can i take it out and roll it on a flat surface like a pool Q to confirm .

Itz really beginning to irritate me.

So is there anyway to confirm the bent vise rod.
Thanx

jodobbs70 said:

So is there anyway to confirm the bent vise rod.
Thanx

Click to expand...

Yes, remove it and roll it between V-Blocks and check for run-out with a dial indicator.

So im safe to assume a tiny bend will make it nonoperationable.
On the same topic, the microswitch had bin removed and jumped. Would the bottoming out of the vicerod be enough to bend it.
And the grey bus terminal where the green and yellow wires connect there is one open terminal. I think this must have bin the #3 wire going to the micro switch.
I guess there was a crack head working on the boat im told and just f#!ked everything up on my buddy..
So in conclusion, the lack of microswitch created enough force on the vicerod to bend it when it bottomed out, and that open terminal on the grey bus must have bin the #3 wire.

jodobbs70 said:

So in conclusion, the lack of microswitch created enough force on the vicerod to bend it when it bottomed out, and that open terminal on the grey bus must have bin the #3 wire.

Click to expand...

In my limited experience, a bent vice rod is more likely caused by someone trying to use the lift out as a power trim while underway ( at more than a dead slow idle).. Defective ( or hot wired) microswitches can cause damage to the top of the lift mechanism, either stripped out threads ( microswitch mounting) or a cracked top of the lift mechanism. If you are handy, either damage can be repaired (kluged).

.........

jodobbs70 said:

So im safe to assume a tiny bend will make it nonoperationable.
It may!

On the same topic, the microswitch had bin removed and jumped. Would the bottoming out of the vicerod be enough to bend it.
When you say "bottoming out" which direction are you talking about? Fully extended, or fully retracted?
When the vice rod is fully extended (drive up), there is a risk if a person was to power the engine up causing the drive to go down.
This forces the vice rod back up into the housing (by design the clutch slips) where it becomes almost fully retracted.
This force can occasionally bend the vice rod.


And the grey bus terminal where the green and yellow wires connect there is one open terminal. I think this must have bin the #3 wire going to the micro switch.
I guess there was a crack head working on the boat im told and just f#!ked everything up on my buddy..
So in conclusion, the lack of microswitch created enough force on the vicerod to bend it when it bottomed out,
The micro switch is activated only upon full retraction (I.E., drive down). This is the only time that the vice rod touches the micro switch.

Here's why:
the vice rod is threaded with an aggressive double Allen male thread.
the cast iron drive portion of the clutch unit also has an aggressive double Allen female thread.
when the clutch operates in the direction for extending the vice rod (drive up), excessive pressure or resistance causes the clutch to release.
when the clutch operates in the direction for retracting the vice rod (drive down), excessive pressure or resistance will not release the clutch.

NOTE: we're talking about the electric motor/worm gear/clutch unit operation of the vice rod...... not the drive retracting the vice rod!

when the vice rod activates the micro switch (drive down), it opens the motor's negative circuit, and prevents clutch damage.

In other words, NEVER lower the drive (retract the vice rod) without the micro switch in place and working!

Click to expand...

sandkicker said:

In my limited experience, a bent vice rod is more likely caused by someone trying to use the lift out as a power trim while underway ( at more than a dead slow idle)..
Yes.... Bob is correct!

Defective ( or hot wired) micro switches can cause damage to the top of the lift mechanism, either stripped out threads ( microswitch mounting) or a cracked top of the lift mechanism. If you are handy, either damage can be repaired (kluged).

In most cases, doing the above will break the cast iron clutch drive (shown as the upper portion of SEQ #5 in the schematic below).
This part is NLA.

Click to expand...