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How do adjust the alignment on an aq series Volvo?

Fishmaster23

Regular Contributor
Okay so Ricardo was nice enough to show the tabs that need to be lined up, but I don't recall him saying how to adjust it. Looks like the tabs on the left side is a tad bit lower than the right. Do you adjust it using the engine mount bolts I'm assuming? I think it needs to be lowered a tad. The nuts on the mounts are all the way to the top.

I took the c series stainless props to the shop to and they reworked and balanced them. Apparently a blade was slightly bent. Even with that fixed it's still has the same vibration. Maybe not quite as bad, but still noticeable.

I mean I put a new mpi 5.7 engine in the boat, replaced the old dpa outdrive with a rebuilt resealed unit. I'm at a loss honestly. As far as the alignment tabs being off I want to say the one on the left is 16th" lower than the other side. Is that far enough off to make a difference or does it have to be dead nuts on?
 
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Okay so Ricardo was nice enough to show the tabs that need to be lined up, but I don't recall him saying how to adjust it. Looks like the tabs on the left side is a tad bit lower than the right. Do you adjust it using the engine mount bolts I'm assuming? I think it needs to be lowered a tad. The nuts on the mounts are all the way to the top.

If the flats at the 9:00 O'clock position (Stdb side), are too close together, yet they are more open at the 3:00 O'clock position (Port side), you would move the front of the engine towards Port until the space became equal at both sides.

If the flats are high/low regarding each other, you would
simultaneously raise and lower the Stdb and Port side engine mounts.
Up two threads on Stdb, means down two threads on Port.
Let your exhaust system Elbows and Y-pipe alignment dictate this.


I took the c series stainless props to the shop to and they reworked and balanced them. Apparently a blade was slightly bent. Even with that fixed it's still has the same vibration. Maybe not quite as bad, but still noticeable.
Check for prop shaft run-out.

I mean I put a new mpi 5.7 engine in the boat, replaced the old dpa outdrive with a rebuilt resealed unit. I'm at a loss honestly. As far as the alignment tabs being off I want to say the one on the left is 16th" lower than the other side. Is that far enough off to make a difference or does it have to be dead nuts on?

The AQ series engine, drive coupler, PDS and universal drive shaft front yoke, are of fixed geometry.
The
triangulation alignment is to ensure that the rubber cushion rings are compressed evenly. This alignment has ZERO to do with any vibration causes.
 
Are there only 3 tabs? One on top and one port and starboard? I didn't realize i was checking the distance between the two parts. If the shaft is bent slightly can it be straightened?
 
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Are there only 3 tabs? One on top and one port and starboard?
There will be a total of 6 flats. 3 on the transom shield, and 3 on the flywheel cover.

I didn't realize i was checking the distance between the two parts.
Yes.... you want close to equal distance between each of the 3 pairs of flats!

If the shaft is bent slightly can it be straightened?
The FWD propeller shaft cannot be straightened. This shaft is integral with it's gear.
If it is damaged, you're looking at a complete new gear set!

The AFT propeller shaft (the small diameter one) can be straightened (if not bent too badly) by a good machinist.
This shaft can be removed from it's gear and either straightened or replaced.
 
If I want to lower the engine a tad do I need to loosen up the 5 or 6 bolts before doing this? It looks like the tab at the 12 o clock position is almost touching compared to the port and starboard tabs.
 
If I want to lower the engine a tad do I need to loosen up the 5 or 6 bolts before doing this? It looks like the tab at the 12 o clock position is almost touching compared to the port and starboard tabs.


Yes..... the 6 camping ring tap bolts must be a bit loose.

Ideally, the two rubber cushion rings will be lubricated with a silicone spray or silicone grease so that they can nestle in to place without being pushed out or pinched.
(I have seen them pinched before, causing the inner ring to leak water)

At each of the 3 areas (9:00, 12:00 and 3:00 O'clock), the gap between the each pair of flats should be equal, or very close to equal.

And yes.... if your 12:00 O'clock gap is too close, you will lower the front of the engine!



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