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Starting Battery Spec. Volvo Penta 4.3GXI-J 2007

T

topcat2vin

New member
Hi,

I have a boat with a weak battery. The battery is not original and not correct. I need to get a replacement. Can someone tell me the size / spec. for the battery I require. I cannot find any information for the battery o suit my engine online.

Also - If I use a bigger battery or deep cycle is this an issue?
 
The batter box will help you determine the physical size.
As for the type, you will want a cranking battery if this bank is your SLBB (start load batt bank) and is for starting only.
The more cold cranking amps the better.

You do not want to use a Deep Cycle battery for the SLBB.
Deep Cycle batteries are better suited for your HLBB (house load batt bank).


Typically, batt bank #1 is the SLBB.
Batt bank #2 (preferably Deep Cycle batteries) will be your HLBB.

You will select between the two via your MBSS (main battery selector switch).... i.e., the #1/ALL-BOTH/#2 selector switch.


Start engine on batt bank #1, warm engine as you charge that bank.
Switch to #2, and enjoy your outing.
Batt bank # 1 will remain in "reserve" until you need it again.



.
 
Thanks for getting back to me.

My battery box is approx. 7"x11"

I only have one battery in the boat so its the starting battery. Should I just be looking for the largest CCA battery to fit my box? I have a battery which is new and is stated to suit marine but is is larger than the box so I would have to make a tray for it (no problem with this). It is deep cycle but the spec I found online states increased cranking power, would it siut. link to spec. i found.

https://southsideangling.ie/product/ampac-110amp-leisure-battery/
 
Ad says:

Ampac 110amp Leisure Battery is a deep cycle marine/leisure range of battery. These batteries are manufactured using heavy duty thicker plates, high density paste, anti-vibration support and glass matt separators. This feature extends battery life and durability.
Constructed with bound electrolyte in glass matt, the case is more than 15 times more vibration resistant than a conventional case. It provides better utilisation of cell volume and gives 250 cycles to 75% discharge.As with all batteries in the Ampac range, it comes with a carry handle.

[FONT=lato, HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica-Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif] There is no real Dual Purpose battery. That is a marketing thing only!
[/FONT][FONT=lato, HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica-Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]
[/FONT]A deep cycle battery is constructed differently than a cranking battery, with thicker and heavier plates and is designed to offer lower amps for a longer duration..... such as lights, radio, refrigerator, fan motors, etc.

A cranking battery[FONT=arial, sans-serif] has more yet thinner plates to give a fast voltage spike to crank an engine.
These are not intended to maintain high power output for long periods.


[/FONT]Your best scenario would be to install an MBSS along with two battery banks.
One bank for cranking (#1) , and one larger bank of Deep Cycles for your house loads (#2).
[FONT=lato, HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica-Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif] [/FONT]
 
RicardoMarine said:
Ad says:


 There is no real Dual Purpose battery. That is a marketing thing only!
Click to expand...


Not true! At least for major reliable brands. I've done tests. While a "dual purpose" marine battery is not a 100% of a start only battery, nor 100% of a deep cycle battery of the same size, it does perform well as a start and as a deep cycle battery.
 
Install a dual purpose battery.... Your battery box will fit a Group 24... Single 4.3... Small boat, two batteries are not needed but nice to have...

If you decide to install a second battery with a simple selector switch.... NEVER! change the switch while the engine is running.......


Purchase a good battery....DEKA is my choice...... Walmart Batteries are good for business.
 
RicardoMarine said:

There is no real Dual Purpose battery. That is a marketing thing only!
Click to expand...
sandkicker said:
Not true! At least for major reliable brands............
Click to expand...
Bob, note that I said "no real" dual purpose. They may be labeled "dual purpose" and while they may get the job done, they are not nearly as effective as are batteries that are designed for a specific purpose............ i.e., dedicated cranking battery and dedicated deep cycle house bank.


Docksidemarineservices said:
.............. If you decide to install a second battery with a simple selector switch.... NEVER! change the switch while the engine is running.......
Click to expand...
Chris, our main battery selector switches today incorporate "make-before-break" contacts, meaning that the contacts do not let go of the previous battery selection until the other battery selection has been made.
Switching battery banks with the engine running is not an issue.

However, what you DO NOT want to do, would be to switch through the "Off" position with the engine running whereby the alternator field circuit would be interrupted causing alternator damage.



*****************************************

Topcat, here are my thoughts regarding the use of a single battery -vs- being set up with a two-bank system.

With only one battery;
...... you will be relying on this battery to start your engine.
...... you may be anchored out (engine off) and using your radio and/or other 12 vdc devices.
...... you may end up bringing this battery down to a low state of charge, finding that it will not start your engine.
...... you now have no reserve battery for starting your engine.

With two battery banks;
...... you will use the #1 for starting your engine.
...... you will use the #2 for the radio and/or for other 12 vdc devices while anchored out.
...... you may end up bringing the #2 battery down to a low state of charge while anchored out.
...... you now have the #1 bank in reserve for starting your engine.


Getting set up for this may cost you a bit (MBSS, Deep Cycle bank, cables, etc), but you won't find yourself being stranded out there due to a low battery.





.
 
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My preferred use of dual purpose batteries is as the second battery in a single engine boat, where not only does that battery perform well as a "house battery" but works well as an emergency start battery. Some engine manufacturers ( mostly full electronic engines) recommend against using deep cycle batteries as start batteries. Merc Verado takes it one step further and specifies AGM batteries only.

ONE CAVEAT NEVER RUN with the battery selector switch in BOTH for more than a few seconds! The only time BOTH should be used is if NEITHER the primary nor Secondary battery alone won't crank the engine. I've tested several modern battery switches and found that it is electrically safe to switch from BOTH to either 1 or 2 while the engine is running. It is also safe ( at least with the Blue Sea brand) to switch from one battery to the other if you perform that switch while switching through the BOTH position, BUT NEVER VIA OFF!
 
Bob, I respect your opinions and I enjoy reading your posts. I don't want to lock horns with you.
Interestingly enough, we all tend to see things a bit differently.
On this subject, I can see the need for us to simply agree to disagree with each other on a few points here.

sandkicker said:
My preferred use of dual purpose batteries is as the second battery in a single engine boat, where not only does that battery perform well as a "house battery" but works well as an emergency start battery.
With two battery banks (a SLBB and a HLBB), we keep our cranking bank in "reserve" so that the chance of a dead cranking battery is greatly reduced.
I still maintain...... a cranking battery on #1, and Deep Cycles on #2.

Some engine manufacturers ( mostly full electronic engines) recommend against using deep cycle batteries as start batteries.
I would agree with that!
Please note that when multiple Deep Cycle batteries make up a HLBB, there are typically no issues with using that bank for engine cranking.
I have been using a multiple Deep Cycle battery HLBB for starting my Stbd engine for years. (Port side has it's own cranking battery)
No issues to date.

Merc Verado takes it one step further and specifies AGM batteries only.

ONE CAVEAT NEVER RUN with the battery selector switch in BOTH for more than a few seconds!
I agree with you, and I believe that this has more to do with alternator charging, in that we want the alternator to sense each battery bank individually, and to then predicate the charge rate accordingly.

The only time BOTH should be used is if NEITHER the primary nor Secondary battery alone won't crank the engine.
Agree!

I've tested several modern battery switches and found that it is electrically safe to switch from BOTH to either 1 or 2 while the engine is running. It is also safe ( at least with the Blue Sea brand) to switch from one battery to the other if you perform that switch while switching through the BOTH position,
Yes, this is due to the "make-before-break" contacts that I mentioned earlier.

BUT NEVER VIA OFF!
Agreed!
Click to expand...
 
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What is wrong with you people? You are so far off topic, it's f-ing annoying to me and probably the OP on this thread. All he wants to know is what size/type battery to put in his boat..... Nothing about adding a second and a switch.... .... This is a 4.3 single in possibly a 18-21 bow rider or similar. Although two batteries are nice to have, it is not necessary.... You can run a 12v refer off one group 27 for 2 days and still start a healthy engine. Pay Attention....
 
..........
Docksidemarineservices said:
What is wrong with you people? You are so far off topic, it's f-ing annoying to me and probably the OP on this thread.
Let's wait and see if Topcat2vin (the OP here) is upset with the additional info.

All he wants to know is what size/type battery to put in his boat..... Nothing about adding a second and a switch..
I am not aware of any forum rule that prohibits us from providing more info than asked for! In many cases it is appreciated.

In post #6, you yourself commented on adding a second battery, and you even said; "NEVER! change the switch while the engine is running......"


.. .... This is a 4.3 single in possibly a 18-21 bow rider or similar. Although two batteries are nice to have, it is not necessary....
You can run a 12v refer off one group 27 for 2 days and still start a healthy engine. Pay Attention....
I would not be willing to risk that.
Keep in mind that in two days on the hook, 12 vdc demands will be much greater than what a refrigerator would consume.

The reason for suggesting a second battery bank is to allow the cranking battery to be held in "reserve".

Click to expand...
 
RicardoMarine said:
..........
Click to expand...

F-ing annoying. is an under statement.

I am sure the OP bailed on this thread after His question was answered in in post #6 especially after he had to weed through all the BS that was put up to get that answer. After the "Second battery/selector switch" BS opinion was posted, You still didn't answer, or just ignored his question.

How about in the future, you read the OP, answer the question asked.

As for my suggestion of "NEVER! change the switch while the engine is running......" I had to post that because of the unnecessary expressed opinion of adding a 2nd battery to a single 4.3 powered 17'-21' bow rider or similar boat. His Money would be better spent on, Tow Boat US.

KISS, We all know what this means.

I'm out.


 
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OMG...............Mr PCR/Wizard just had to turn a simple question into a 20 post lesson on how smart he thinks he is.




And for the record, any proper size marine battery that fits in his box will work and who cares where he purchases it from.........Even if it only lasts a couple seasons.

WTF...............Bahahahahahaha
 
I have used gp 27 Deka dual purpose batteries for years and I think they are a good choice for small boats which is likely what the OP has, where the starting loads and house loads (minimal, we are talking maybe a sound system, VHF radio and a depth finder) are not separated as on larger cruisers. In boats like these what you need is a battery with adequate cranking capacity but more reserve capacity that a starting battery to power a bilge pump and/or a radio in case of an emergency. In these boats “starting” and “house” loads are not a meaningful distinction. So for most small boats with an all in one electrical system the DP battery is a good choice. The last one I replaced lasted 7 seasons; I use a pair of Deka DP 27s.
 
Hi guys thanks for the responce. I have since found an owners manual for my engine. It states I should use a non-deep cycle battery and it should have min. 650 CCA. Based on this I got an 096 battery - 650 CCA.

I dont need a 2nd battery as it is in a 21 ft cuddy and we would not have a lot running when the boat is switched off.

Again thanks for the help.
 
Is this a trailer boat or is it left in the water either docked or moored? If a trailer boat a starting battery is fine and will give the most CCA for its size but if its a docked or moored boat, the DP battery is better for powering the bilge pump if you get days of rain some water will always leak thru the covers into the bilge. Just something to keep in mind. Some years ago we had a period of 2 weeks of torrential nearly constant rain, I saw 2 boats sink because the bilge pumps killed the batteries. When I finally got out to my boat the battery that was powering the bilge pump all that time, still had enough juice to start the engine.
If you can get towing insurace where you are, its a good investment. If not then it does make sense to have a dual battery system. Not hard to install, just the switch, wiring and the extra battery. In all the years I have had this system, I've never been stranded by a dead battery, but had to switch to my #2 battery a few times. Being able to do that avoided a tow and waiting on someone to get you even though I have had tow ins all these years.
 
Good thread, although someone must've run out of beer... Lmao.

I'll have to inspect my battery selector, I cobbled together my two bank system using an automotive selector lol.
 
1981Century said:
Good thread, although someone must've run out of beer... Lmao.

I'll have to inspect my battery selector, I cobbled together my two bank system using an automotive selector lol.
Click to expand...

Selector, especially if located in the engine compartment needs to be marine approved, i.e. explosion proof. I've been using Blue Sea brand last several projects (including my own boats) with very good results.
 
From the Volvo operator's manual.

Battery Requirements: Replace the battery with one that has the same (or better) cold cranking amps and reserve capacity as the battery installed in your boatby the boat builder. If you are unsure of the battery to be used, consult your dealer.NOTICE! Failure to use a battery of recommended specifications could result in poor starting and electrical component damage.NOTICE! Do not use deep cycle batteries to start thee ngine. A deep cycle battery, while it may have enough cold cranking amps (CCA), does not have enough voltage to power the ECM and will cause problems with the engine.Please refer to applicable engine-related data at the beginning of this chapter for a specification of minimal requirements.

Battery size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 volt with 650 Cold Cranking Amp (CCA) rating (135 minute reserve capacity)Do not use a deep cycle battery as the start battery

Surprisingly, this is also the recommended starting battery for a 8.1GXi-J

Good thing the O.P. found his owners manual because nobody seemed to be willing to tell him.

Group 24 12 volt with 650 Cold Cranking Amp (CCA) rating (135 minute reserve capacity)
 
muc said:
"The more cold cranking amps the better."
Click to expand...

The first part of post #2 reads:

Rick said:
The battery box will help you determine the physical size.

As for the type, you will want a cranking battery if this bank is your SLBB (start load batt bank) and is for starting only.
The more cold cranking amps the better.
Click to expand...

muc said:
..... So you think a 8D battery with 1,400 CCA would be a good choice for a boat with a single 4.3L?
Click to expand...

Absolutely not!
That would be a ridiculous suggestion!
 
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