74 Evinrude 50473m no start, no noise,

So, new soleniod, new switch. Fuse is good. Neutral switch is good. Voltage is good, continuity is good. Turn the key absolutely nothing. If i disconnect the battery power wire from the igntion switch and use another power source, like my battery charger, connected to the ignition switch terminal it works as it should. So.....i dunno. Anyone out there in internet land have any ideas? Short to ground somewhere?

A short to ground would pop the fuse.-----Is your fuse still good ?

Fuse is good. Its the damndest thing. There is battery voltage at the battery wire. Reads 12.7 or so volts on the multimeter if i check between the ring terminal on that wire amd the terminal for the solenoid. But if i attach the battery wire to the ignition switch and test to the solenoid wire its something like a few millivolts. Check between the battery wire and grond reads 12.7. Turn the key nothing happens. If i disconnect the battery wire from the igntion switch and feed lower using my 12 volt battery charger it works just fine. Ive checked everthing i can think of that would make it not work. Its my first outboard so its probably something really dumb im overlooking or just dont know about. Im pretty decent and mechanicing junk but this...i dunno. Basically just stared at it for a few hours yesterday willing it to work after i tried everything i can think of.

I can not see your motor or your wiring.-------Post 2 pictures of your new solenoid and state where each wire on the BIG posts is going.

Are the little terminal wires on the solenoid reversed?? One goes to ground via neutral safety switch, the other one of course goes to your ignition or cranking button.....powers to 12 volts and triggers solenoid.

I cant

Figure out or it wont let me upload the pics. But 4 post solenoid. Top big terminal is to battery also has the power wire that runs through the fuse amd to the ignition switch. Bottom cable to starter.
I actually tried reversing the small wires. But in the contols i have it runs from ig. Switch through the neutral safety switch to top small terminal through solenoid to ground on the powerhead. I disassembled cleaned tested the neutral safty its good. I even mad a jumper to by pass it for testing purposes same result.

I really appreciate you guys.

Actually, it's simple. There is a high resistance somewhere in the wire running between the battery cable side of the solenoid and the bat. terminal at the ignition switch. That resistance is causing a voltage drop when current flows as you turn the key. It's all about Ohm's Law and resistances in series. That's the easy part. Hard part is finding the high resistance. Possibilities begin with a broken or corroded-through wire. Or corrosion in the fuse holder. Or poor contact at the conection in the big red plug. Or anywhere between the big red plug and the ignition switch. A simple visual check can often find the fault--if you are lucky.

EDIT: Don't ignore the possibility of a no-good new fuse.

EDIT EDIT: You can prove what I'm telling you by running a temporary wire between the battery positive terminal and the key switch, bypassing the whole circuit.

EDIT EDIT EDIT. Don't ignore the most common fault--corroded battery terminals. You should always begin there. Don't just look at them and assume. Take it all apart and clean everything shiny bright, then reassemble tightly. That will fix 90% of the cases.

Fdrgator, you nailed it. Started checking the resistances and tracing it out. Theres something like a 16 ohm reading between the control to engine harness connector and the ignition switch in terminal. So step one 1 complete, the key cranks the engine. Sweet. Now time to go mix some gas and see if it will fire right up with no further issues...thanks guys. I was down to using the force.