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95 Evinrude 150 motor Boggs after 3000 RPM

R

Ranger-374V

New member
I bought this Ranger off my boss last summer. Here is the back story on this boat. My boss was running down the lake around 50 mph when the lower unit went out. The motor hit rev limiter for a few seconds before he shut it off. They trailered the boat and put a used lower unit in it from a Johnson 150 from around the same year. Since then the boat will bog down to 3000 RPM. You can get it to 4500-5000 if you slowly give it throttle but after a few seconds it will bog down to 3000. You can let off the throttle and do it again and it’ll do the same thing over and over. If you give it full throttle out the gate it will bog down right away. I put a new CDI power pack on it with no change. I checked the compression. It is good. Does anyone have any similar experiences like this that could help me? It’s just odd that it was running great until the lower unit went out.
 
Strange that the new CDI did not fix it.-------What trouble shooting have you done ?----And how long did it sit around before you got it.------I would say you need to look at the carburetors.----Perhaps float bowls are warped and jets need cleaning.
 
I haven’t done a lot. Other than replacing the power pack and testing the temp sensor and priming the fuel bulb while running. The carbs do need new bowls. They are warped and do leak a little bit. I just wanted to fix the main problem first before I replaced the bowls. I guess the warped bowls could cause a lot of issues, but they were like that before this happened. It didn’t sit but for maybe a month before they got the lower unit back in
 
And another question. When I put the new power pack on the face of the pack (where the coils sit) had this thick plastic film over it. I read the instructions and no where did I find that I was supposed to remove that film. I’m guessing that plastic film was supposed to stay on?
 
Think about doing some testing !------Do you have spark on all 6 leads that will jump a gap of 7/16" on a test device, YES or NO ?
 
Do you have a link to the tester I should use to test the spark? And from what I understand it’s basically the brain of the ignition system and it reads RFI noise. I have found some cracks in the timing wheel also. I’m thinking I’ll replace the timing wheel and optical sensor anyway
 
Ok I did the spark test. It is definitely jumping a 7/16th gap. I also revved it up to 4000 rpm and shut it off. Found what I think is a tiny water droplet on the end of two spark plugs. Cleaned them put them back in and retested and found no water droplets.
 
If a cracked head was the problem, wouldn’t I have seen that in the compression test? I got 95 PSI on every cylinder and the engine was cold
 
Thank you all for answering my questions. I do think the shift linkage is a little out of adjustment. When in gear, in order to get it back in neutral I have to bring the lever back about a 1/2 inch past neutral. And when I try to put it in reverse it just makes a horrible sound like it’s not going all the way in reverse. But I never thought that would be the cause of my issue
 
Pull the lower unit and check the shift rod height, it should measure 21 1/4". Once that's set correctly check your shift linkage. You definitely shouldn't have to move the lever around to get into neutral.


KJ
 
Is the Shift Interrupter Switch supposed to be depressed the whole time it’s in gear? And I’ve seen where someone said to test one, remove the ground. Couldn’t the same thing be achieved by taking the switch out of the holder?
 
The reason I ask is because while I was doing the spark gap test I notice the switch was separated when in neutral. But as soon as I put it in forward gear the switch came together and stayed that way all the way to full throttle. I hope this makes sense haha. What I’m basically saying is the button on the switch is not pressed in neutral and is pressed when in gear. Is this how it is supposed to work?
 
Thank you! Then I guess I have found my issue. I will be disconnecting it and I’ll take it out on the water this weekend to make sure. But like I said for some reason it is depressed the throughout the whole forward range
 
Well it’s running great now! Turns out it was the Shift Interrupter Switch. I took the switch out of the bracket and it is running great now! Thank you all for all the help!
 
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