Logo
FULL SITE MENU

2003 Bf255 stalled and will not start.

B

britten44

Member
I was out fishing. I did some idling around a cove looking at my electronics. Shut the motor off and fished for 15 minutes. When I started the motor to idle out of the cove the engine sputtered, died and would not restart. No alarms or anything. When I got home I pulled the DTC codes. I got 7 and 24. Looks like both are related to temperature sensor / overheat sensor. Is it possible that a faulty sensor would keep it from starting?

I have the service manual and will check the resistance on the sensors tomorrow. Any help/ideas are appreciated.

Doug
 
7 = Throttle Position Sensor, 24 = Overheat sensor 1 - the one on the top of the starboard side manifold. First thing to do is check and clean connections to both sensors. Then reset CPU and try again.

Second thing to do is to remove breather and check that timing belt didn't skip.
 
Thanks, I didn't think of that but it makes sense. It this a common occurrence with this motor?

If it is out of time, is it as simple a realigning the timing marks as directed in the manual? Is there any other concerns I need to look for?

- Doug
 
No, it is not a common occurrence if the timing belt is checked and adjusted on a regular basis. If you do find it skipped a notch, then your next step is a compression test to make sure you did not bend a valve or two, or more. This is an interference type engine, so if badly out of time, you can been valves.

Even if it is not out of time, do a thorough inspection of the timing belt, the rollers, and the tensioner while you are in there. The shop manual explains how to check and adjust tension.
 
Problem solved. When I pulled the breather off to check the timing, which looked fine, I sprayed some starting fluid in the intake and the motor fired immediately. I opened the drain on the VST and drained 4 oz of water out. Cycled the key a couple of times and drained 4 more oz of water until it ran clear. I then pulled the “water separator” and it was 100% gas. Motor fired and ran fine.

Why is the water separator not doing its job? Should I add one prior to the motor? The motor is on a bass boat and rarely if ever will buy gas on the water.

CHawk - thanks for info!

Doug
 
Glad you found the problem. It is possible that you have a leak in the raw water cooling jacket on the VST. You should pull the VST, remove the water jacket and thoroughly inspect the area where the water jacket mates with main body of the VST. If badly corroded, you may want to replace both the water jacket and/or the main body of the VST. If there is a hole, but the rest of the parts look solid, you may be able to repair it with JB Weld.

See this parts diagram: https://www.boats.net/catalog/honda...ge/225hp/bf225a3-la-2003/vapor-separator-assy

You should make it a habit to drain the VST at every maintenance interval and at the end of every season and thoroughly inspect what is discharged.

Yes, definitely install an external fuel/water separator. I prefer the Racor with the screw-on sight bowl and drain on the bottom. When you mount it, be sure to leave enough room to get a container under it for easy draining.
 
Is your cam belt okay, sounds like it may have broken, you will have no spark and no injector pulse if this is the case?
 
I installed an external Raycor water separator. Took the boat out and ran 6 or 8 miles, did some idling around when the motor stalled again and would not start. I was able to drain the VST and it again fixed the issue.

My question is if it is worth running the motor in a barrel of water with some blue dye and then draining the VST to see if the leak is definitely from the water jacket or just pull the VST and inspect?

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
I assume there was no water in the Racor - Correct?

The only thing running in blue dye would prove is that it's not coming from your fuel tank. But if you drained the Racor and there is no water, that eliminates water coming from the fuel tank. So, it's very likely getting there from the cooling jacket on the VST.
 
Update on the situation. I pulled the VST and opened it up and filled it with gas. I pressurized the water jacket with about 60 lbs of air pressure. No bubbles inside the VST. I also used the primer bulb to pump about a 1/2 gallon of gas out of the tank... No water.

Is there anywhere else that water can enter the fuel system between the water separator and the VST??
 
This is weird. I can't think of anywhere water can into the fuel system except for the water jacket on the VST or from the gas tank.

Did you drain the Racor after this happened? If not, do so.

Here is an off-the-wall idea. You may have water in the bottom of your fuel tank, but when the boat is at rest, the fuel pick up doesn't get to it. But when you are out running around, it does. I'm assuming this is a trailered boat. If so, jack up the front of the trailer, then use a floor jack to jack up one side of the trailer axle so that there is a distinct tilt. Remove your fuel gauge sender plate from the tank and snake a hose down to the very lowest spot. Let it settle for awhile, then pull out a gallon or two of whatever has settled in the lowest point of the tank.

I do this every few years using an after-market electric auto fuel pump you can buy at almost any auto parts store.

Hopefully some other folks will jump in and think about something I overlooked.
 
I am confident that there is no water in the fuel.

My BF225 is on a bass boat and when I am cruising at low speed or on hole shot the motor gets water in the cowling cover. If the water get high enough to cover the VST could it suck some water in?
 
Take off the intake plenum and check your VST breather filter for salt residue, I have had this same issue once on a BF130 and put it down to that. I diagnosed it by cutting open the filter and found salt crystals in it.
 
Not common but I have seen it once. Think about it, you say there is no water in the little water separator on the motor, there's no corrosion in the cooler, the only other place water can enter is through the fuel bowl vent. Also, make sure the breather is actually connected and routed correctly.
 
iang6766 said:
Not common but I have seen it once. Think about it, you say there is no water in the little water separator on the motor, there's no corrosion in the cooler, the only other place water can enter is through the fuel bowl vent. Also, make sure the breather is actually connected and routed correctly.
Click to expand...


It definitely makes sense. What is the solution. A better hose clamp on the breather line?

Thanks for the help!
 
I think just check the breather is snug and tight on the top of the vapor separator, and check the hose is in good condition and correctly routed all the way to the outlet on the mount case.
 
The breather hose on the VST was not all the way down, I could see a little of the nipple and there was no clamp on it. I pushed the hose all the way down and installed a hose clamp. I'll test it out and see.

Thanks for the input.
 
Here is an update. Since adding a clamp on the breather hose on the top of the VST and raising my motor 1.5" I have had no water in VST.

Thanks iang6766.
 
Back
Top