Winterize 5.7L MPI Raw Water cooled

Helping a buddy winterize his 2002 and 2018 5.7L 350 MPI, raw water cooled engines. I have fresh water and I know it's a different process.

(2) questions:

After getting to operating temp, removing the thermostat, reinstalling housing, less the thermostat, run engine while running antifreeze through his drive until pink shows at exhaust - will that ensure the engine is void of water and properly winterized ( in terms of freezing ) ?

His fuel lines are robust and a hassle to remove and tap into for the auxiliary fuel tank/ cocktail. Is it OK to use the water/ fuel separator method ? And , if so, what is the mix, and the process ? Do you just let it run through for 5 minutes or so ?

Thx -

After getting to operating temp, removing the thermostat, reinstalling housing, less the thermostat, run engine while running antifreeze through his drive until pink shows at exhaust - will that ensure the engine is void of water and properly winterized ( in terms of freezing ) ?

maybe ,maybe not depends how much it was diluted by not draining everything first. so much easier to drain everything first, then pour the AF in if desired.


His fuel lines are robust and a hassle to remove and tap into for the auxiliary fuel tank/ cocktail. Is it OK to use the water/ fuel separator method ? And , if so, what is the mix, and the process ? Do you just let it run through for 5 minutes or so ?

Remove the feed hose from the sep and conect a remote tank with the mix. If there is a shutoff at the sep, use the other "in" port with a hose barb

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abl1111 said:

Helping a buddy winterize his 2002 and 2018 5.7L 350 MPI, raw water cooled engines.
I have fresh water and I know it's a different process.
I think that you mean that your buddy's are Raw Water cooled, and that you engine is fitted with a Closed Cooling System.... yes/no?

(2) questions:

After getting to operating temp, removing the thermostat, reinstalling housing, less the thermostat, run engine while running antifreeze through his drive until pink shows at exhaust - will that ensure the engine is void of water and properly winterized ( in terms of freezing ) ?
In short (for your buddy's engines)......... NO........ Bad idea!
Read Ed's (Bt Doctour) second paragraph.

Remember, just plain ole air will not freeze expand and ruin our expensive cast iron components.
Drain the water, leave it dry, and rest peacefully this winter.

His fuel lines are robust and a hassle to remove and tap into for the auxiliary fuel tank/ cocktail. Is it OK to use the water/ fuel separator method ? And , if so, what is the mix, and the process ? Do you just let it run through for 5 minutes or so ?
IMO, there is no need to use a remote fuel tank.
You can remove the fuel filter canister and pour the contents into a clean container.
You can then make a mixture of gasoline and the recommended oil.
Re-install filter, run engine long enough to have pulled this mixture in.
Do not run too long, or you may over-dilute your special mixture.

Thx -

Click to expand...

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I do it a wee bit different. To wit:

1. Drain all water out of the block and exhaust system (SIX petcocks)

2. Connect a tank to the muffs and inject Pink Stuff. (I duct tape the muffs to the LU to prevent leaks, and open the valve when starting the motor to save fluid that leaks out the back.)

3. Run the motor until you see Pink Stuff coming out the back, then until it stops (3 or 4 gallons).

Since all motors use a bypass circuit around the t-stat, to prevent pump stalling, you do not have to pull the t-stat out to fill the block with anti-freeze.

Jeff

Happy Thanksgiving ! Thx for the answers. I know there's more than one way to do this.

My bud's boat is raw water cooled. Mine is a closed system ( only elbows have raw water )

So, each engine should have (6) drains ? The 2002 engine, we could only find 3 of the blue guys ( the one on the lowest point on port side dumped a lot of water ). Where are they all ?

As you can see from your responses, you guys who I've appreciated/ listened to in the past, all have different ways of doing it.

I'm familiar with the sucking pink up through the raw water intake i.e. drive ( again, mine sucks through intake hose I disconnect from SB strainer ). I ASSumed I'd have to remove the T-stat to assure total flow ? Is it better to run to operating temp, drain, reinstall plugs then run pink through ?

The other method I've seen is to drain, reinstall plugs then, pour A-freeze into T stat housing and each manifold hose...

I want to help but but want to do it right.

As for the water/fuel sep fog - what is the exact mix and once complete - do you just leave that mix in the way/fuel sep and start 'er up next season that way ?

Oddly enough, I have not done my own engine yet as she is not running at the moment ( some sort of ignition, sensor ??? problem ). But, I have the luxury of pumping the water out to keep things safe for now.

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abl1111 said:

Happy Thanksgiving !
And happy Thanksgiving to you also.

I know there's more than one way to do this.
** There will always be two ways to skin the cat. But......(and I hate using the word "but") keep in mind that there will typically be one way that is better.
Your call on that one!

My bud's boat is raw water cooled. Mine is a closed system ( only elbows have raw water )
Correct..... elbows are always raw water fed.

So, each engine should have (6) drains ? The 2002 engine, we could only find 3 of the blue guys ( the one on the lowest point on port side dumped a lot of water ). Where are they all ?
See your OEM service or work shop manual.

As you can see from your responses, you guys who I've appreciated/ listened to in the past, all have different ways of doing it.
See ** above.

I'm familiar with the sucking pink up through the raw water intake i.e. drive ( again, mine sucks through intake hose I disconnect from SB strainer ). I ASSumed I'd have to remove the T-stat to assure total flow ? Is it better to run to operating temp, drain, reinstall plugs then run pink through ?
Are you asking about your engines, or your friend's raw water cooled engines?
Take a few minutes and read this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3BD7X6QC3KCFR?ref=pf_vv_at_pdctrvw_srp

The other method I've seen is to drain, reinstall plugs then, pour A-freeze into T stat housing and each manifold hose...
Yes, draining all of the seawater first would be best.

I want to help but but want to do it right.
I don't blame you..... lots of responsibility!
Keep in mind that just plain ole air won't freeze expand and ruin expensive components. Never has, and never will!
The amount of interior rust scale that could accumulate during the layup is nothing to be concerned about.
It won't even come close to that which occurs during the normal boating season.

As for the water/fuel sep fog - what is the exact mix and once complete -
Again, see your OEM service or work shop manual as to the type and amount.

do you just leave that mix in the way/fuel sep and start 'er up next season that way ?
Fogging an engine is quite different from what we can do to an FI engine.

We introduce an oil enriched fuel mixture to FI engines, of which is not truly fogging due to it undergoing combustion!

Carbureted engines can be fogged. As we introduce the fogging solution (at above idle speed), the ignition is cut while continuing the fogging process.

Click to expand...

Mine is a closed system ( only elbows have raw water )

almost right, the HX has a drain too
Typically on a MPI with manual drains. 1 on each side of the block , 1 on each manifold , 1 in the cool fuel unit, 1 in the lower circ hose and possibly the PS cooler.

If your buddy is super paranoid get an engine compartment heater. Maybe a few bucks spent on electric bill will prevent calamity in springtime.

Thx for all the input;

On closed system - how do you assure the Heat exchanger is being flushed with antifreeze ?

abl1111 said:

Thx for all the input;

On closed system - how do you assure the Heat exchanger is being flushed with antifreeze ?

Click to expand...

There are two sides to the engine's Heat Exchanger.
.... Ethylene glycol side (exterior of the tube bundle) non-accessible by average Joe.
.... Seawater side (interior of the tube bundle) typically accessible by removing the end cap(s).

In other words, both liquids are on opposite sides of the interior tube bundle.
Your concern will be the interior of the tube bundle... aka seawater side.

There should be a pencil anode port on the heat exchanger's shell.
Pull the pencil anode and the seawater should drain out.

Look at the condition of the pencil anode.
Depending on how well it sacrificed itself, you may want to replace it several time per season.
These are pencil anodes..... and may be Zinc, Aluminum or Magnesium, depending on the water.




Heat Exchanger shell and tube bundle example only

abl1111 said:

Thx for all the input;

On closed system - how do you assure the Heat exchanger is being flushed with antifreeze ?

Click to expand...

The heat exchanger presumably is already filled with antifreeze . Just drain the seawater out. You don't need to fill the seawater side with anything but air.

My pencil anode is on the top of the heat exchanger - mine is an aftermarket as the OEM took a poop (2) seasons ago, after 12 years usage, and the cost for new OEM was $$$. A local guy by me makes good stuff.
To be honest, maybe I'm lucky, but I have never done anything to winterize my Heat Exchanger. :O
I will pull a side off this year and drain sea water.