the base timing is what Im looking for at this time....
the flyweights are in good condition and working as they should...
When you finally get it up and running, connect your timing light, set BASE advance, and then increase RPM to see if the system is advancing correctly.
As per Mark, you will be looking for 25-29 deg advance @ 2,100 RPM
(to me, that appears to be somewhat aggressive)
If you are uncertain, and/or if your fuel's octane rating is rather low, favor the 25 degrees @ 2,100 RPM.
Suggestion:
Get your hands on a year-correct OEM service manual for this engine, and follow the ignition advance specs.
See if you can find an actual ignition advance curve graph for this engine, and then strobe your timing marks to verify that your system is delivering it correctly.
what I have found so far after getting the front cover off, is the marks are mated correctly in relation to one another, BUT.... at TDC, the dot marks on the gears are about 1 tooth away from where they should be... instead of them being at their closest point to one another, TDC comes up before the marks get to their closest point (a strait line from the center of the crank rotation to the center of the cam rotation, the marks should center and line up perfectly behind this line)....
the indicator mark on the crank timing gear seems to be off 1 tooth, as one of the valves is still open slightly... it appears the cam is retarded 1 tooth.
Not good!
to solve the problem, I have loosened the rockers and removed the lifters, then pulled the cam and rotated/advanced it one tooth to the position it where it should be in relation to true TDC (the gears are pressed on, both the crank and the cam)....
The camshaft chain sprocket may be a tight fit, but when the bolt is removed, it should come off fairly easily.
The crankshaft chain sprocket will be a press fit, and will be keyed to the crankshaft.
Between the camshaft alignment dowel, the crankshaft key, and when the chain sprocket indexing "dots" are aligned, the crankshaft and camshaft should be indexed correctly.
now, after replacing the lifters in #1 cyl, the valves are both fully closed and I can rotate the crank back and forth several degrees without movement in either of the #1 lifters.
Yes.... that would be correct!
now, if I knew what the valve lift was supposed to be at what crank position, I could confirm that it is in fact, only one tooth off...
With #1 cylinder's piston at TDC, and with both chain sprocket "dots" aligning, there should be no need to do that...... unless of course, you want to verify that the balancer TDC line mark is accurate.
Now, when you adjust the cam followers, start with #1 cylinder at TDC C/S.
Adjust both intake and exhaust (you will be setting the depths of the hydraulic plungers).
Now move the crankshaft 180*, and do the same to #3 intake and exhaust.
Follow that with another 180* rotation, and do the same to #4 cylinder.
Rotate another 180*, and do same for #2.
After that, roll the crankshaft again so that #1 cylinder piston stops at approx 6* BTDC on the compression stroke.
Install the distributor and spark plug cables.
With a spark detector (or spark plug) in the #1 plug cable boot, turn the ignition key ON.
Now rotate the distributor in the CCW direction until you see one spark event.
Do this several times until you are able to stop rotating the housing the moment of the spark event.
Tighten the distributor's clamp bolt.
Now it should fire right up.
Soon at it fires up, set BASE advance, and re-check the clamp bolt for tightness.