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2002 bf225a. Spark and fuel but no Start

A

AnthonyC

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Someone please help! As stated above i have spark and fuel but wont fire up. No clue at this point. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
 
Have you checked compression? When you say you have fuel, have you checked fuel pressure, is fuel fresh or old, could there be water in the fuel, are your injectors pulsing? Does you alarm give two beeps when you turn on the ignition? When was the motor last running. A bit more info would be handy if we're going to help.
 
iang6766 said:
Have you checked compression? When you say you have fuel, have you checked fuel pressure, is fuel fresh or old, could there be water in the fuel, are your injectors pulsing? Does you alarm give two beeps when you turn on the ignition? When was the motor last running. A bit more info would be handy if we're going to help.
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I have not checled compression since this problem happened.. but checked maybe 2 months ago and it was good. I believe 180 if i remeber correctly. Fuel pressure is 40-43 psi with fuel spraying out of injectors. Fresh fuel, new plugs. Took samples of fuel.. no serparation. Yes 2 beeps. Motor was last running last week. Running great. Parked it for 4 days. Went to tale it back out. Just cranking no start. I pulled up some blink codes. Trying to attach here not sure if its going through. But it looks like 1 blink, 7 blinks, then 1 long blink.

What i did find is i have no voltage coming back from the signal wire of TP sensor. So i am assuming this is a problem
 
iang6766 said:
Have you checked compression? When you say you have fuel, have you checked fuel pressure, is fuel fresh or old, could there be water in the fuel, are your injectors pulsing? Does you alarm give two beeps when you turn on the ignition? When was the motor last running. A bit more info would be handy if we're going to help.
Click to expand...

I have not checled compression since this problem happened.. but checked maybe 2 months ago and it was good. I believe 180 if i remeber correctly. Fuel pressure is 40-43 psi with fuel spraying out of injectors. Fresh fuel, new plugs. Took samples of fuel.. no serparation. Yes 2 beeps. Motor was last running last week. Running great. Parked it for 4 days. Went to tale it back out. Just cranking no start. I pulled up some blink codes. Trying to attach here not sure if its going through. But it looks like 1 blink, 7 blinks, then 1 long blink.

What i did find is i have no voltage coming back from the signal wire of TP sensor. So i am assuming this is a problem
 
Your faults are tps, iat and O2 sensors.Try clearing the codes before anything and see if they come back.You should check the earth wires for the engine harness . A shop manual would be handy. I would still check compressions first, stick to basics. Your cam timing could have jumped, I know more than a couple of people who have been caught out.Faulty sensors don't usually prevent the engine from running
 
iang6766 said:
Your faults are tps, iat and O2 sensors.Try clearing the codes before anything and see if they come back.You should check the earth wires for the engine harness . A shop manual would be handy. I would still check compressions first, stick to basics. Your cam timing could have jumped, I know more than a couple of people who have been caught out.Faulty sensors don't usually prevent the engine from running
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How do i clear the codes? I seen someone push the kill switch button 5 times to do it. But mine i guess is jumped out (The lanyard doesnt work) I have an online shop manual but all the troubleshooting charts say to use some service connector to probe certain pins and supposedly this connector is no longer available- so this manual is doing me no good here.

So how would i check and/or correct cam timing issue if that is the case?
 
Just wondering how you got the fault codes. Take the electrical cover off the front of the motor and locate a red connector with a weather cap on it. Remove the weather cap and using a small split pin or piece of wire, short out the Lime green/white with the black wire. Turn ignition on and activate the kill switch 5 times at one sec intervals until there is a long beep indicating codes have been reset. On the cam timing issue, if there is a problem it will be indicate by low compression. You say you have spark and fuel, so the only thing missing can be compression or the engine would start.
 
iang6766 said:
Just wondering how you got the fault codes. Take the electrical cover off the front of the motor and locate a red connector with a weather cap on it. Remove the weather cap and using a small split pin or piece of wire, short out the Lime green/white with the black wire. Turn ignition on and activate the kill switch 5 times at one sec intervals until there is a long beep indicating codes have been reset. On the cam timing issue, if there is a problem it will be indicate by low compression. You say you have spark and fuel, so the only thing missing can be compression or the engine would start.
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That is how i got the codes by jumping the green and black wire. But to clear the codes i cant because my kill switch doesnt work. Im assuming its bypassed and was like that since i got the boat

I guess i will check compression now.

Like i said the boat ran great all along. Then i parked it for a dew days and it totally stopped working!
 
AnthonyC said:
How do i clear the codes? I seen someone push the kill switch button 5 times to do it. But mine i guess is jumped out (The lanyard doesnt work) I have an online shop manual but all the troubleshooting charts say to use some service connector to probe certain pins and supposedly this connector is no longer available- so this manual is doing me no good here.

So how would i check and/or correct cam timing issue if that is the case?
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Just did compression test.

One side i have 235 on all 3 cylinders
Other side i have 240 230 235 from top to bottom
 
Just want to chip in. Chawk, I hate to have to correct you but the wire color is black in the diagnostic plug, black/red is your engine cut out wire when earthed. The two wires to bridge are the lime green/white to black. You are right about the compressions, they are a little high but this could be a result of a gauge discrepancy, the main thing is that they are all reading less than 10% variation. I suggest clearing the fault codes, try starting the engine again and see if the same faults re occur. If they do then time to get a wiring diagram and search for a wiring issue common to all three faults.
 
Ian. OK. I was talking about the wires to the kill switch. Anthony stated that the "kill switch didn't work." So, I was trying to explain that you can clear codes by briefly bridging the two wires to the kill switch 5 times to clear the codes. Maybe I didn't express that correctly. The write up I attached clearly states to shunt the lime green/white to black to get the codes.

Anthony - in fact. simply make sure that the wires to the kill switch are completely disconnected from anything, and then try to start.
 
chawk_man said:
Ian. OK. I was talking about the wires to the kill switch. Anthony stated that the "kill switch didn't work." So, I was trying to explain that you can clear codes by briefly bridging the two wires to the kill switch 5 times to clear the codes. Maybe I didn't express that correctly. The write up I attached clearly states to shunt the lime green/white to black to get the codes.

Anthony - in fact. simply make sure that the wires to the kill switch are completely disconnected from anything, and then try to start.
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I cut the wires to the kill switch and tried but nothing there. So i havent been able to clear the codes.

As i originally mentioned.. the only thing i have found so far is that i have no voltage coming back from the TPS signal wire
 
AnthonyC said:
I cut the wires to the kill switch and tried but nothing there. So i havent been able to clear the codes.

As i originally mentioned.. the only thing i have found so far is that i have no voltage coming back from the TPS signal wire
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* Boat is now running it was TPS
 
James t said:
Is the TPS the throttle position sensor? I have shop manual on order - but what Is it used for by the engine?
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Yes.. Throttle Position Sensor. My understanding is that it basically monitors the position of the throttle and sends signal back to the ecu to adjust the air fuel ratio accordingly
 
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