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Two cyclinders on port side getting hotter than other two on starboard side

1972 johnson 85 hp.V4 .left bank is getting warmer than starboard side.running a little rough.Trying to fix that and noticed diff temps on cylinders .any suggestions.compression on motor as is within specs.Thanks you for your time and help.
 
Copy/Paste of available database:
Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the rubber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.
 
I'm sorry I got the year number wrong it's a 1975 model number is 85ESL75E.I've had it on muffs and now I have it in barrel.Going to try it again.cleaned intake screen and it was working last time I started it.Could the water be returning to pump until thermostat opens I didn't let it get that warm the first time with the muffs on.Ill let it warm to get thermastat to open this time in barrel.is there another indicator I could look for right when it starts to see if it's pumping?The thermostat housing looks to be partially under flywheel with motor lift hook on top of it.If the thermostat is stuck closed would the impeller still get enough water to keep it from being destroyed?I just have a feeling the thermostat is stuck closed.Hadn't fired it up for a month and I was getting a good spray out of exhaust ports last time I started it.Thanks for the input and quick response everyone.
 
85ESL75E = 1975 85hp Evinrude w20" shaft - Water deflectors exist

Copy/Paste of available database:

Water deflectors are actually lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose, installed between the top cylinder and any cylinder beneath it, and also between the bottom cylinder and the block. The purpose of the deflectors is to have the water follow a definite path around the cylinder walls. Unfortunately the deflectors between the cylinders will at times swell sideways due to either a previous bad overheating problem, or simply due to age and salt corrosion. This causes a water flow restriction which usually allows the water to cool sufficently at low rpms but not at the higher rpms.

This hose material can be purchased reasonably at any automotive parts type store if you care to make your own, or you can purchase individual deflectors at any Evinrude/Johnson dealership at a somewhat higher cost.

Removing and installing them can be a hassle at times, but not always. I use a sharply pointed scribe with about 1/4" of the tip bent at a right angle whereas I can reach in, jab the tip sideways into the rubber, then yank it out. It's necessary to clean the seating surfaces where the rubber contacts the block with a small rat tail file to eliminate salt deposits etc. When installing the new rubber deflector, coat the deflector and the metal surfaces with WD40 which will act as lubrication to allow it to go in as easily as possible.

Make sure that you insert something into that deflector area before cutting and installing the deflectors if you make your own so that you will be certain that they are the right length and also that they will be seated properly. Usually a very small amount will be left extending about the block sealing area..... simply cut the excess off with a single edge razor blade.
 
Thermostat is not under the flywheel. It is on the backside with two big hoses going to it. Personally, I think you should launch the boat and see if you really do have a problem. Also, when was the pump impeller last replaced? That is a regular preventative maintenance item. Don't dare wait for it to fail before you do. Also, if it still has the original aluminum pump housing, replace the entire pump with the newer kit with plastic housing w/ stainless steel liners. Those aluminum pumps burned up a lot of motors around here (salt water).

Yes, the water returns to the pump when 'stat is closed. But even though, a bit of spray should be discharged.
 
I've only had the no at a short time haven't even had it in lake yet.I'd planned to put in new impeller and if it has a aluminum houseing ill replace the wholepump.ive changed out impeller on my 1982 merc.70,will the Johnson be similar.Anything I need to pay special attention to.Had to drop the lower in back off merc because I inadvertently let it go into fwd gear with shifter in neutral.2nd time I put it in fwd and turned shifting spline counterclockwise,and had nereal fwd and reverse.Lesson learned.Thanks for your time and direction 's fdgator
 
Well got to put boar in lake today and it cooled just fine.I'm not sure what caused it to get warmer on port side the other day.Did another compression check on motor and have 115 on top cylinders and110 on bottom two.thanks for everyone's help.Here pretty quick in going to tear 'm carbs on the 70 hp 3 cylinder 1982 merc with merc carbs wm11 and learn a little more about enrichment system.
 
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