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Too many hoses...

kendrew

New member
Good day,
My manifold were shot and did not have the money to get new ones. Looked on craigslist found these ones. They looked in good shape but have a few too many ports.

manifold.jpg
download (1).jpg


from the heat exchanger, heat exchanger back.jpg i have two output one is coming out of the heat exchanger itself and the other one is from oil cooler. from there they are split in two. the one from the heat exhanger goes to the front of the manifolds. received_703964880082169.jpg


The other one comes out of the oil cooler and is mounted on the 20 degree elbow. 20 degree elbow.jpg

As you can see in this picture there is an output that we had in the back of the manifold that we blocked to keep with the same setup.

The manifold heated bad.

We removed the back plate and noticed that the plate was completely blockblock plate.jpg ( i believe its because of the different setup) now its free flowing nicely.

With everything explained, I have a few questions...

(1) Would you please identify the manifold Part # shown in the attachments.

(2) Does this manifold require distribution tubes and or will they accept same ?

(3) What is the part # for the rear gasket and should it be an open or closed ?

Thanks for your help.
 
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i have two output one is coming out of the heat exchanger itself and the other one is from oil cooler. from there they are split in two. the one from the heat exhanger goes to the front of the manifolds.
I do not see a Heat Exchanger in your photos.
Is this a closed cooling system (with no pictures of the H/E), or an open raw water cooling system?


With everything explained, I have a few questions...

(1) Would you please identify the manifold Part # shown in the attachments.
I do not have enough Chrysler Marine experience to identify these by part number.
Perhaps one of the Chrysler guys will be able to!


(2) Does this manifold require distribution tubes and or will they accept same ?
I'm not following you on that one!
Perhaps post a picture of an old Port side manifold sitting right next to a Port side replacement manifold.


(3) What is the part # for the rear gasket and should it be an open or closed ?
For a raw water cooling system, the rear exhaust manifolds and exhaust manifold elbows will be seawater cooled.
If the cooling system is a fully closed cooling system (as in engine and exhaust manifolds), the rear elbows are still raw water cooled and will use a fully blocked off plate/gasket between the manifold and elbow.
If the system is a half closed cooling system (as in engine only within the closed system loop), the rear elbows are still raw water cooled and may or may not use a fully blocked off plate/gasket depending on how the "spent" seawater enters them.


Thanks for your help.


Many of the older cooling systems were far more complicated than necessary.
Today's systems are much easier and less complicated to deal with, and they actually function much better.

The old/early ChrisCraft engines used the double pocket seawater pump. What a nightmare that system was!

If this is a raw water cooled engine, there will be no heat exchanger.

If this engine is fitted with a closed cooling system, and if you are wanting to keep these manifolds within the closed loop, they will require a coolant feed "in" and a coolant return "out".
This can be tricky to re-sign due to the T-stat housing configuration, along with the Heat Exchanger's coolant out/in configuration.
Post a few photos of your Heat Exchanger, T-stat housing and your replacement manifolds.

None-the-less, your H/E will have a seawater inlet and a seawater outlet.... or possibly two seawater outlets depending on how the coolant is directed to each exhaust manifold.






 
Hi Rick I do have a Heat exchanger see attached pic since then it has been service and painted :) 20190910_224353.jpg20190910_224414.jpg20190910_224419.jpg20190910_224433.jpg

Also I do not have a double just a single jabsco pump. jabsco pump.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hi Rick I do have a Heat exchanger see attached pic since then it has been service and painted :)

Also I do not have a double just a single jabsco pump.


I see five ports on your H/E.
One port (on the E/G side) will lead to your engine coolant circulating pump.
One port (also on the E/G side) will be a coolant return.
One port (on the seawater side) will be for incoming seawater.
One port (also on the seawater side) will be the spent seawater port.
Without hands on, I would not know how the fifth port is to be used.
Do you have any photos of the T-stat housing?



The mention of the double pocket seawater pump was just a comment regarding how complex the old ChrisCraft systems were.



FYI.... some of the Chrysler guys have been switching from the belt driven seawater pumps, to the Johnson F6B-9 or F5B-9 crankshaft pumps.
It cleans things up, removes the belt driven pump issues, and simplifies the system.
If you do a search, you will find several threads regarding this.
There is an adapter that some of the guys have been making.
 
(1) Would you please identify the manifold Part # shown in the attachments.
Sierra Marine Exhaust Parts.jpgSierra Marine Exhaust Part Numbers.jpg Sierra parts numbers shown here.

(2) Does this manifold require distribution tubes and or will they accept same ?
Closed loop system.jpgMy cooling loop is as shown in this diagram.

(3) What is the part # for the rear gasket and should it be an open or closed ?

17550.jpg17550 and on my 318 engines are the same as the gaskets shown here.

The oil cooler hose on my engine is connected to the risers not the exhaust manifold itself as shown in the flow diagram.
 
I just noticed an error in the Chrysler flow diagram and have corrected it in this diagram. The hose from my oil cooler goes directly to the Vee Drive and then to a tee between the risers as shown here.
Closed loop system.jpgIMG-20150413-01711 50.jpg
 
OK.... without throwing a wrench into things here.... I have a few comments and questions.

C: If your cooling system is like what Toonl posted, you have what's referred to as a Half System. A Half System includes engine only within the ethylene glycol loop.

C: I might also add that it is much more complicated than necessary by today's standards.

Q: Where the seawater leaves the heat exchanger and enters the exhaust manifolds (A), is there a need for a "splitter/diverter" fitting as to introduce an equal amount of seawater into each manifold? (on many of today's systems, a splitter/diverter fitting is used).

Q: Where the seawater leaves the transmission oil cooler and heads towards the Elbows (B), is there a need for a "splitter/diverter" fitting as to introduce an equal amount of seawater into each elbow?



Chrysler half closed cooling system.jpg
 
Q: Where the seawater leaves the heat exchanger and enters the exhaustt manifolds
(A)
, is there a need for a "splitter/diverter" fitting as to introduce an equal amount of seawater into each manifold? (on many of today's systems, a splitter/diverter fitting is used).

Q: Where the seawater leaves the transmission oil cooler and heads towards the Elbows
(B)
, is there a need for a "splitter/diverter" fitting as to introduce an equal amount of seawater into each elbow?

A: That is a interesting point Ricardo. There are no splitter diverters that I am aware of, although I believe the incoming 1" water hose can easily supply the two 3/4" lines coming away from the tee that is shown in this picture. I have shot the exhaust manifolds and risers with a thermal gun on different occasions, and the temperatures found indicate that cooling is equal on both sides of the engines.
Hoses at Tee.jpg
 
For those of you that are in colder climate areas like me another point worth mentioning here is that because the cooling water enters and leaves these exhaust manifolds at the upper most point it creates a cavity that does not drain at winter lay up.
Exhaust Manifold Water Level.jpg

My exhaust manifolds have draining petcocks installed at their lowest point.
Exhaust Manifold Petcock drain.jpgExhaust manifold Draining.jpg

After they are drained I fill them with concentrated anti-freeze to mix with any remaining water still present. This anti-freeze also has a rust prevention additive as well. You don't want to end up with cracked manifolds in the spring.
Possible freeze crack.jpg
 

A: That is a interesting point Ricardo. There are no splitter diverters that I am aware of, although I believe the incoming 1" water hose can easily supply the two 3/4" lines coming away from the tee that is shown in this picture. I have shot the exhaust manifolds and risers with a thermal gun on different occasions, and the temperatures found indicate that cooling is equal on both sides of the engines.
View attachment 22013

It would be interesting to see the inside of that copper fitting. I would hope that there is a splitter or diverter web inside of it.

Also, great point regarding the low point and no drain area on the manifolds.
 
Ricardo quote--

"Many of the older cooling systems were far more complicated than necessary.
Today's systems are much easier and less complicated to deal with, and they actually function much better.

The old/early ChrisCraft engines used the double pocket seawater pump. What a nightmare that system was!

If this is a raw water cooled engine, there will be no heat exchanger. "


1. This is a Chrysler, not a Chris Craft.

2. Already stated that there is a heat exchanger.

3. A very NOT complicated system.

Let's try to help the OP not drag Ricardoworld nonsense!
 
That is a interesting point Ricardo. There are no splitter diverters that I am aware of, although I believe the incoming 1" water hose can easily supply the two 3/4" lines coming away from the tee that is shown in this picture. I have shot the exhaust manifolds and risers with a thermal gun on different occasions, and the temperatures found indicate that cooling is equal on both sides of the engines.
View attachment 22013

Some systems will not show the same temps on each side, often as result of un-equal supply/flow.
If yours are equal, all should be good.





Ricardo quote--

"Many of the older cooling systems were far more complicated than necessary.
Today's systems are much easier and less complicated to deal with, and they actually function much better.

The old/early ChrisCraft engines used the double pocket seawater pump. What a nightmare that system was!

If this is a raw water cooled engine, there will be no heat exchanger. "


1. This is a Chrysler, not a Chris Craft.

2. Already stated that there is a heat exchanger.

3. A very NOT complicated system.

Let's try to help the OP not drag Ricardoworld nonsense!

mcomm, here are a few gifts for you.


eye glasses and evelyn woods books .jpg
 

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Update--- Well ran the engine for 25 mins at different rpm's and stayed cool. Now hopefully, will show the same result in salt water versus the garden hose lol.
For the petcocks, I tried to removed one and replace them but i think they are jammed good. When i remove the engine next for a overhaul will re-look at this...
There is a 5 to 10 degree difference from port to starboard risers. there is a hose that look kinked a bit and could be the culprit. will change it.
Thanks a bunch guys. Onto to electrical next!
 
I would say that a 5 to 10 degree difference is certainly within limits.
Look closely at that hose..... if need be, I would replace them both.

Good work, and keep us informed.
 
Thanks for the follow up. It's great to hear you are back up and running well. I have attached a picture of my engine temperature readings taken this October while underway at around 1200 rpm. It is worth noting that the raw water temperature at the time the readings were taken was about 65 degrees Fahrenheit. 5 to 10 degrees difference should not be a problem.
Temperature readings.jpg
 
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