Mercury classic 50 1987 stator alignment

Hey all.
Just recently purchased a 1987 Mercury classic 50 45 horsepower outboard. Boat has a high-speed miss about 3000+RPM have not done a DVA test yet but went ahead and pulled the flywheel to see condition of stator. Instructions say to rotate stator if there is a high-speed Miss however I do not know if the previous owner has installed this stator properly it looks like a new stator... Relatively anyway.. minus the protective boots on the connection ends are slightly dry rotted. But it looks fine smells fine Etc. So I guess number one what is the proper alignment from Factory and does anyone know if it's a clockwise or counterclockwise rotation meant by CDI.

Also can I run the DVA test with muffs on or does it need to be in the water

Do the DVA testing FIRST.

Jeff

Will do. Got adapter yesterday. But it reads ofl when hooked up according to CDI as well as
When hooked up according to adapter instructions per an Adi ignition. Waiting for manual to arrive next week before I continue. As I know there's a possibility of when hooked up to the wrong lead on the module could possibly cook it

Set your meter on DC. Test each one of the stator wires to ground individually (with them hooked up). With the plugs out, spin her over and read/ record the voltages. Then do the same for each of at the coils.

Jeff

Ah. Just cranking. That would make sense. Thanks

So should zero fuel should bypass needle when pressing bulb? Could this cause a stumble and power loss at higher rpm. Idles well. Replaced faulty stator which improved the high miss drastically. Now tries to.climb rpm well but falls flat like cut off, (or completely flooded out) to fuel in a cylinder (or 2)

It only does it on one carb by the way, pours out the throat of the top carb

J_9791 said:

It only does it on one carb by the way, pours out the throat of the top carb

Click to expand...

Stuck float or improper float adjustment?? If you remove the float bowl, be advised that in my '92 40hp, there was a bowl gasket, a baffle plate, and a washer on the inside bottom of the bowl - had a heck of a time getting all that to stay in place when putting the bowl back on - could have used gasket tack or some other adhesive.
Regarding the stator, on mine there were 4 bolts holding it in place with the wire bundle positioned at only one place to feed into a channel down to the switch box.

Thanks RickM46. Not sure on float issue yet. Will look into it this weekend. I did take off the bowl and had just the bowl gasket and an inner and outer mounting gasket. It wasn't awesome but was able to get it back on without pulling the carb yet. Weird thing is. After I pulled bowl and reinstalled. Now the same issue doesn't occur with the gas bypassing the needle.

J, there is a float needle that controls the flow of gas from the bowl into the carb; it rests on a tab on the float and moves up/down into an input venturi (names may be wrong); maybe it was stuck and you jarred it loose; probably wouldn' t hurt to squirt a bit of cleaner (a cleaner not harmful to plastic, my floats are plastic or something similar) onto that needle and maybe the one in the other carb; you lucked out with the components in the float bowl; you could easily drain them for the winter - maybe add some Stabil directly into the bowl; I have had good success with automotive Stabil that way with my carbs.