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HELP! Water intake hose come off under 350 MAG?

C

cjoh2255

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Hi all, I am new to owning a 2009 Sea Ray Sundeck 200 with a 350 MAG MPI 5.7l sterndrive alpha 1. All has been going well until the boat stopped dead in the water last weekend with overheating engine warnings and the bottom of the boat filling up with water when the engine is running. It looks to me like the raw water is pumping in from outside ok, however a hose looks to have come off under the engine (towards the back right side) and water is coming in. I have taken a photo from under the engine using my phone, and placed a red arrow pointing at where the water is rushing in from. The photo quality is not great, but I am hoping someone with more experience than me can point me in the right direction as to what might have come off and how I might reattach it. Thanks so much for your guidance.
 

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Possible rotted gen2 fuel cooler or the clamp just let loose. If the clamp is there and not broken and the cooler is not rotted, you have a blockage and the pressure forced the hose off.
 
Hm that's a bit annoying. You kinda get that sinking feeling when that happens ha ha ha! OK first thing...do you have a bilge pump that's rated for at minimum 1500 gallons per hour? If not, then you should be swapping out the small pump for one that can actually move some water if needed. In fact there's no shame in having TWO big bilge pumps. I do. If water's coming in I def want to be ahead of it. I have two 2000 GPH pumps low in the bilge with Water Witch automatic switch that kicks the pumps on if there's more than 2 inches in there. We can get into arguments about how long those big pumps would last if the engine conks out and they're running down the batteries, but time is precious when the boat's going down. Anyway let's hope we never need to test this...

There's no intake hose in that area. There ARE cooling water hoses and it's my guess that one of these failed. The one that connects to the fuel cooler is suspect number 1. Since you probably did not have the boat inspected or surveyed before you bought it, I'd highly recommend that you have that done now.
One thing I always do when I get a new-to-me boat is remove all the hoses and replace them with Shields-Flex and good AWAB hose clamps (doubled). It's a couple hundy to do that but hey, would you want a repeat of this near-disaster? While you're at it replace the belts, and do a tune up with plugs wires cap rotor.
And take care of that rust.
 
o2batsea said:
One thing I always do when I get a new-to-me boat is remove all the hoses and replace them with Shields-Flex and good AWAB hose clamps (doubled).
Click to expand...

Sorry, Don't do this. All Mercruiser hoses are high in Carbon and are part of the bonding system. If you change the hoses you will have more rot issues than you will want to see.

Put an ohm meter on a Mercruiser OEM rubber hose and you will see.
 
Shields Flex has wire inside. Does same thing.
Also, many hoses for the Mercruiser are NLA, so the bonding issue is moot in that regard if the hoses are replaced with aftermarket.
 
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Put an ohm meter on a Mercruiser OEM rubber hose and you will see.
Click to expand...
You bet! I wanna see this in real life! If the resistance is more than one Ohm tho, then they are out of compliance. ABYC rules for bonding systems are max one ohm.
 
o2batsea said:
Hm that's a bit annoying. You kinda get that sinking feeling when that happens ha ha ha! OK first thing...do you have a bilge pump that's rated for at minimum 1500 gallons per hour? If not, then you should be swapping out the small pump for one that can actually move some water if needed. In fact there's no shame in having TWO big bilge pumps. I do. If water's coming in I def want to be ahead of it. I have two 2000 GPH pumps low in the bilge with Water Witch automatic switch that kicks the pumps on if there's more than 2 inches in there. We can get into arguments about how long those big pumps would last if the engine conks out and they're running down the batteries, but time is precious when the boat's going down. Anyway let's hope we never need to test this...

There's no intake hose in that area. There ARE cooling water hoses and it's my guess that one of these failed. The one that connects to the fuel cooler is suspect number 1. Since you probably did not have the boat inspected or surveyed before you bought it, I'd highly recommend that you have that done now.
One thing I always do when I get a new-to-me boat is remove all the hoses and replace them with Shields-Flex and good AWAB hose clamps (doubled). It's a couple hundy to do that but hey, would you want a repeat of this near-disaster? While you're at it replace the belts, and do a tune up with plugs wires cap rotor.
And take care of that rust.
Click to expand...

what are you talking about? the main water intake hose comes in, across the back of the motor and down the port side right into the fuel cooler. to say theres no intake hose in that area is completely wrong.
as chris stated ,the merc hoses are better to keep. plus the molded angles, will be very difficult to mimick with the shield flex.
no offence but you tend to go off on a totally different subject when a person asks a specific question, here in example, talking about bilge pumps, tune ups and changing hoses.
if his hoses are crusty, change them out for new merc hoses. jeez, the boat is a 2009, its not like its an 88
 
chs said:
what are you talking about? the main water intake hose comes in, across the back of the motor and down the port side right into the fuel cooler. to say theres no intake hose in that area is completely wrong.
as chris stated ,the merc hoses are better to keep. plus the molded angles, will be very difficult to mimick with the shield flex.
no offence but you tend to go off on a totally different subject when a person asks a specific question, here in example, talking about bilge pumps, tune ups and changing hoses.
if his hoses are crusty, change them out for new merc hoses. jeez, the boat is a 2009, its not like its an 88
Click to expand...
You'll want to reread the OP's description. The intake hose as we know is at the top center of the gimbal housing, not at the bottom. It's possible the intake barb fitting is rotten and leaking which means pulling the engine and or drive to repair properly (if you can get your tiny monkey hands in there, good on ya)
In my humble opinion, the shields hose is far superior in every way and I have no difficulty muscling it into the places it needs to go. As for it needing to be electrically conductive, bullsh@t.
 
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