Some Winter advice

So you know the story for the most part. I took the head off the AQ 130 which is being resurfaced at no charge, won't bore you with details.. Leak test on the oil cooler checked out negative. Fast forward to now. I ordered new manifold & head gasket and new seals for the oil cooler, also a new set of water pump seals. I got a break in the weather Sunday and took my shop vac and retro fitted a tube that I could get down into the block cooling jackets while it's exposed. Sucked a lot of s--- out of there. Water, lots of bits of crusty stuff stuck on the end of the tube basically metal eaten away in a 43 year old motor, pretty amazed at how much I got out. That said, no matter how hard I try, I cannot get the block drain cleared out, best I get is a drip with water in the cooling jackets.

After all that, the question is?

Since I assumingly have all the water sucked out of the block at this point. Should I get this thing back together, get a new oil filter and oil in the engine if that matters, I am guessing it wont hurt and close it up for the Winter? If I run it to test and I can't get all the water out to Winterize it because the drain tube is down to a drip, I will need to put a heater or a light bulb in there to keep it warm when it starts freezing.

Now not knowing the results of all of this till Spring will bug me, but I can close this thing up for the Winter and not worry about a heater or it freezing.

Side notes, it takes about 3 12oz bottles of water to fill the water jacket. The water I can see does not lower, nor do I have water in the oil pan which is empty at this point when I undo the plug. Granted it is not running nor under any pressure. But if the block was cracked, would that water leak into the block?

Okay done, hope that made sense?

Thanks again! Jim

That said, no matter how hard I try, I cannot get the block drain cleared out, best I get is a drip with water in the cooling jackets.

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Ayuh,...... Was there just a pipe plug in the block, or a mulity piece drain fittin',..??..??

If just a pipe plug, use a deck screw to dig the crud out, so the block will self-drain,.....

I've never seen a block drain I couldn't clear with a deck screw,.....
I leave a 4" ssteel deck screw on my manifold, just for that reason,......

Thanks for the reply. It's a copper tube thread into the block. No way I am going to try and remove it, it would probably twist off. I can get a thin diameter screwdriver in far enough to hit the other side of the block, about 8" or so. If I twist it, I get a gritty black sludge type stuff on the end of the tip. If I hit it with air, a little bit of air comes out of the two aft water jackets at the back of the block. The head is currently off. If I fill the water jacket with water, best I can get is a drip out of the tube coming off the block. The pet-cock is long gone, guy I bought it from had a bolt with silicone stuck in there. :rolleyes:

Jim, can you post a side view pic of that copper tube that shows it in relation to the block? Just curious, how far does it stick out of the block?

Pic taken from ebay. The tube sticks out about 2.5" maybe, you might have to scroll to the right picture.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/462653-Cyl...a=0&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Are you asking about this fitting?



If so, that is the cylinder block drain fitting.
The "stop" should be completely removable. If not, I would exchange it for one that is!

This is a port that you should be able to "probe" as to clear any debris from the area and allow all seawater to drain.

If the cylinder block is clogged up with sand or silt, you'd best find a way to clean it out!

RicardoMarine said:

Are you asking about this fitting?

View attachment 21950

If so, that is the cylinder block drain fitting.
The "stop" should be completely removable. If not, I would exchange it for one that is!

This is a port that you should be able to "probe" as to clear any debris from the area and allow all seawater to drain.

If the cylinder block is clogged up with sand or silt, you'd best find a way to clean it out!

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Thanks and yes I know what it is, AM_Dew was asking for a picture. If it is decent on Sunday, I am going to try and rig up a small tube that I can get in there to the garden hose or spray btl and see if I can flush it out. If I put air to it, I can get a bit of air coming out of the 2 back water jackets. If I can't I will just have to live with it, and set up a light or heater for when it gets really cold. Right now I am pretty sure I have sucked all the water out, so when I get the head back and the new gaskets in I will put it all back together and leave it till Spring.

So I blasted this thing today. Flushed water in through the drain, and flushed water down through the water jackets. I hit it with air, and suction at the same time in different cavity's. I filled the water jackets about half way up with water and stuck the air compressor nozzle into the drain tube. I can see water in all the jackets bubbling and can hear air blowing through as well. I then take the air nozzle out and it doesn't drain the water in the block out.. I then take and blast air to the jackets and blow a bunch of c--p/bit's and pcs out of the water jackets. Rinse repeat 4 or 5 times with the same results. I also am using my shop vac with a small tube sucking bits of cast iron out each time. It is way less slag then before every time I do it, but no idea what is in there blocking the drain? I am off on Tuesday, may go catch a salmon in the river or try this again.. Or both as I only live 20 min from the river. I know it's corrosion, but can't imagine why this cr-p isn't flushing out at this point. Would love to see a schematic on what the flow of these channels/water jackets are, searched to no avail.

Thoughts or advise Ricardo on this, or just throw me a bone. I would appreciate it!

Thanks! Jim

JimA82 said:

So I blasted this thing today. Flushed water in through the drain, and flushed water down through the water jackets. I hit it with air, and suction at the same time in different cavity's. I filled the water jackets about half way up with water and stuck the air compressor nozzle into the drain tube. I can see water in all the jackets bubbling and can hear air blowing through as well. I then take the air nozzle out and it doesn't drain the water in the block out.. I then take and blast air to the jackets and blow a bunch of c--p/bit's and pcs out of the water jackets. Rinse repeat 4 or 5 times with the same results. I also am using my shop vac with a small tube sucking bits of cast iron out each time. It is way less slag then before every time I do it, but no idea what is in there blocking the drain? I am off on Tuesday, may go catch a salmon in the river or try this again.. Or both as I only live 20 min from the river. I know it's corrosion, but can't imagine why this cr-p isn't flushing out at this point. Would love to see a schematic on what the flow of these channels/water jackets are, searched to no avail.

Thoughts or advise Ricardo on this, or just throw me a bone. I would appreciate it!

Thanks! Jim

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knock out the expansion plugs in the water jacket to clear out the crud.
i had a 7.4 merc last year that no matter how hard i tried, i coiuld not get the block empty on 1 side. i ended up pulling the port exhaust manifold and removing 2 expansion plugs. the water jacked was filled 1/2 way up with silt. good thing i cought it or the customer would have needed s new engine, at my expense, since i was the one who winterized it.

I really appreciate the advise, thank you! I am getting down guessing about a inch if not more below the freeze plugs with the suction tool I made up, and its hooked up to my shop vac. Not sure popping the plugs out would make a difference? I can judge by how far the suction tool is going down in to the jacket, but then maybe there are other separate jackets in the block. In a few spots, I can get 8" of tube down in there.

At this point I am done for the winter. I have sucked as much water as I can out with the head off. Still waiting on the head and manifold gasket, as well as the new seal kit for the oil cooler. I am confident I got all the water sucked out, but when it looks like it will freeze, I will put a drop light in there.

Other question is, do I need to drain the 270 leg of oil? I drained it a month plus ago and filled with fresh. Should I drain it again and refill with fresh oil?

Thanks again for your advice! Nice to see another chiming in.

On changing the drive oil again I would just check the bottom plug for evidence of water intrusion. If there is no water getting in the drive fine to leave it until next season

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JimA82 said:

Other question is, do I need to drain the 270 leg of oil? I drained it a month plus ago and filled with fresh. Should I drain it again and refill with fresh oil?
Stern drive oil does not lend itself to combustion by-products. There is no need to change it unless it has become contaminated with water and/or metallic residue.
It is safe to run it until it begins to show signs ...... at which time it will need to undergo a re-seal.

This would be a great time to perform a Pressure/Vacuum leak-down test. The gear oil must be drained for the pressure leak-down test!
The vacuum leak-down test doesn't care one way or the other.

NOTE: your 270 requires either 30W non-detergent engine oil (if in cold water) or 40W non-detergent engine oil (if in warm water).
DO NOT use heavy gear oil!
Heavy gear oil may shear the slinger pump impeller drive pins.

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RicardoMarine said:

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NOTE: your 270 requires either 30W non-detergent engine oil (in cold water) or 40W non-detergent engine oil (if in warm water).

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Rick -- this is the first I've heard of different OD oil depending on water temp. Any guidelines on "cold water" vs "warm water" temps?

Thanks!

am_dew said:

Rick -- this is the first I've heard of different OD oil depending on water temp. Any guidelines on "cold water" vs "warm water" temps?

Thanks!

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Well first off, you will not read this in any OEM work shop or service manual.

While I can't give you a water temp guideline......
30W works well in the colder waters such as our west coast and/or upper east coast waters.
40W (a bit heavier) works well in waters such as the warmer Florida waters.


Your call on that.

Thanks Ricardo, I used the 30w so will leave it it in there and check the level before using. I also did get a new o-ring. I am punting the rebuild project till the Spring. The head is still at the shop, I have coated all the exposed metal, top of block and where the oil cooler mounts with a light coat of heavy grease. Then poured oil onto the top of the pistons manually turned the crankshaft a few times, then soaked shop rags in oil and kinda packed that into the cylinder. With as wet as it is up here, I am assuming I don't need to get moisture in there rusting things up? Will check it once a month, and re-lube if needed.